Black Smoke Donkey

[Kinder]

I finally finished the winch upgrade today. I lucked out and the internal gear was splined the same as the new motor output. It feels faster when spooling the line, but no real world pulls on it yet. It does run on a bit more than it use to, the old winches don’t stop when you let off the button. I’m a huge fan of the lighter syn line, I spliced it myself with a locked & stitched Brummel for the eye splice and reinforced it w/ a stainless sleeve. I reduced the amount of line on the drum down to 100’ and built a 50’ extension out of the same dyneema rope to get back out to the original length. I shoved the new single contactor into the old 4x solenoid space to keep the easy wired remote connection and old school look. I also upgrade the fairlead to a coated aluminum instead of a steel roller. I’ll see what I can find around the park to get a pull on it ASAP.

[Jesus_man]

That looks great!! Glad you got it up and running!

Two things to I learned:
1. The synthetic line will squeeze down, so when it's wound nicely, the top layer can get sucked down deep into the drum and cause it to get stuck. They say to wind it across the drum more rapidly so the line won't get sucked down too far. I hate the look, but see #2.

2. The line deteriorates quickly in UV light. Maybe you want to cover it?

[ZOSO]

That looks great!! Glad you got it up and running!

Two things to I learned:
1. The synthetic line will squeeze down, so when it's wound nicely, the top layer can get sucked down deep into the drum and cause it to get stuck. They say to wind it across the drum more rapidly so the line won't get sucked down too far. I hate the look, but see #2.

2. The line deteriorates quickly in UV light. Maybe you want to cover it?

Ya know I didn't think about #1. That is a good point. I have made a few hard pulls on mine and it did get bunched up. But was pretty easy to pull out while unwinding.


Kirk you have a different plug on the front of your cover. Mine was too big to allow me to put the contactor in the box. But I did mount the contactor under the battery and kept the box for the plug. Like you I like the look of the box on the front.

[Kinder]

That looks great!! Glad you got it up and running!

Two things to I learned:
1. The synthetic line will squeeze down, so when it's wound nicely, the top layer can get sucked down deep into the drum and cause it to get stuck. They say to wind it across the drum more rapidly so the line won't get sucked down too far. I hate the look, but see #2.

2. The line deteriorates quickly in UV light. Maybe you want to cover it?

Ha! How’d I know I’d get called out for the cover, I wanted you all to see my pretty blue line!



I am looking for a smaller line only cover that’ll be easier to remove. I also noticed that I didn’t protect the eye portion of the line so I ordered some nylon sleeve today and I’ll fix that.

I followed the master pull technique on wrapping the drum but I also like your idea of the larger crossing style. I always hate when the line gets jammed.

[Jesus_man]

From home depot website...

[Kinder]

First time running the portable spool gun off of the CC DC power supply in BSD. A while back I picked up some small repurposed / cheap shield gas bottles for mild steel and aluminum that are slender enough to keep on BSD.

This project is for the park’s new to us wildlife truck, a gear platform that replaces the back seat.

It worked really well after I got the settings dialed in, amazing how much power this setup can put out. I need to add some Anderson style connectors to the end of the cables that come off the controller so I don’t have to clamp the clamps together. I’m looking forward to welding up an aluminum project in the future.

[Jesus_man]

That is really cool!!

[Kinder]

Finally installed some of my pump upgrades, I’ve always thought that an extra 2-4 lbs of boost would be great when I pull Loveland & Vail pass on the way to hunting. And... it is great! I’ve got a lot more driving and knob twisting to do to get it just right.

At the moment I’ve got full rack travel (23mm) w/ modded spring & washers, no fuel plate, modified AFC foot to allow more travel, pre-boost screw in 3x turns, AFC housing all the way fwd (3mm) for more pre boost fuel & 30 lbs of boost available.

The in cab tuners let me back off the fuel & boost, but won’t add any more than the physical mods have done. When fully loaded I was able to pull the passes at 50-60mph @ 1150 EGT at ~ 22-24 lbs of boost. Compare that to last time I pulled the passes fully loaded I was at 40+ mph, ~ 1000 EGT at 18-19 lbs of boost.



I need to pull my pre-boost fuel back a bit, as I’m actually rolling baby coal, ha!

Video of a quick romp around with the tuner turned up.

https://youtu.be/5Ff5qrzceDg

I’ve got a little puff of white smoke and bit of a hiccup rolling in just off idle, I’ll sort that out.

Next up is to install the new governor springs (I have 3k & 4K) so I can spin over 2700 rpms without de-fueling & HD valve springs (60# intake & exhaust) so I don’t float a valve at higher rpms.

[Kinder]

BSD dragging home some junk from Denver for a kid I know.

[landshark]

Awesome. Love those

[Digger]

Love te fact that BSD is a working truck in every sense. *golf clap*

Also, cool Z-car. That was my first vehicle and only car I've ever owned, '78 with FI 2.8.

[crawlercreations]

Hopefully this one doesn't get t boned like his last 2!

[Justin]

That's sweet! Used to race a 510, and would give an eyeball to build a 240z. Did the wrx get wrecked?

[Kinder]

BSD has to work for a living, it’s really my do everything rig. A lot of times “multitools” don’t do specific jobs well, but they do most things good enough. But, BSD really does most things that I need it to do very well.

The Z is a 1977 280z, getting ahold of a 240z is way outside of our budget. Just like classic Broncos the 1st gen Zs kept the same body from 1969-1978, we’ll swap some earlier bumpers and trim onto this ‘77 to clean up the lines. Unfortunately just like the classic Bronco all the Z cars suffer from rust, but this one is in decent condition. The worst of the rust is the passenger side front fender & driver side sub frame rail. The gentlemen we bought it from had owned it from 1979, and it hasn’t left his garage since 1999.

My youngest does seem to have a problem keeping cars from getting hit, none have been his fault. But, we talked and he is open to taking an aggressive defensive driving class to up his game. This is his 2nd T bone accident in a year. The 1st accident claimed the 1968 Camaro we were working on and this accident totaled his ‘02 WRX. The real pain is losing all the work put into both cars, but the time spent working with him is precious.

This car seems to be a good fit between the two cars, he missed the culture and camaraderie of the classic car scene when he was driving the WRX. The Z is considered a classic, but also has the JDM vibe that draws the younger generation. I’m looking forward to tearing into it and getting it running, 1st on the stock components and then upgrades will follow. Shoot the car only has ~72,000 original miles on it, nothing for a guy who drives a fleet of +/- 50 yo old Broncos every day!

[Justin]

Cool car! Glad he's ok.

[Strike2]

That's sweet! Used to race a 510, and would give an eyeball to build a 240z. Did the wrx get wrecked?

That’s a very sweet ride! Congrats on picking a classic IMO, there is a guy that lives around here that has a 240 BRE replica that is awesome, Just like Justin I used to have a 72 510 with full flares with a new factory 2000cc motor that car was a blast to drive.

Justin will have to talk Datsun’s next time we meet

[Justin]

Yes we will!