7.3L diesel advice

[Gunnibronco]

I'm going to start looking at 7.3 diesel trucks.

Probably 97-03 model years. Can you guys chime in and give me a list of things to look at, and ask about. I don't know much about diesels and know maintenance is important.

I'd hope to keep the miles under 225k, and will go with an older model if the miles are lower.

Thanks

[Moab Mike]

Mine is a 2003, last year for this engine. It currently has 127k miles on it. The only problems I have ever had out of mine were:

The cam position sensor went out - covered under factory recall for free as a safety issue.

The valve cover gaskets with the integrated wiring harness unplugged itself - fixed it using the "50 Cent Fix" in about an hour.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/95102 ... t-mod.html


The sway bar bushing wore out causing a "clunking" noise - cost me $40.00 to replace myself.

In sub zero temperatures the fuel will gel. If you run additive and plug it in, it runs like its 80 degrees.

Change the fuel filter at least once a year - takes about 5 minutes

[kbank6]

I liked the older body style which is why I went ith a 97. The main thing that I have had a problem with is the glow plug relay. I bought one from Autozone which has a life time warranty so it just a simple swap. I did have the trans done at 100 thousand and currently have 235. There is so much info on Dieselstop, powerstroke, and Ford enthusiasts. Com if you have not been on there already.

[ZOSO]

if it looks like a rear main leak it's not. Most likely the turbo pedestal o rings. While it's running take the oil fill cap off and turn it over. If it blows off there is excessive blow by. the early 7.3 power strokes are non intercooled. Pre 99 has smaller injectors and less power. Some 01's to 03 have PMR rods(weak). Take an inspection mirror and flash light. Look against the firewall at the up pipes to see if there is any soot build up. If there is the gaskets are shot=high egt/low boost. With the higher sulfur content in the fuel causes the orings in the fuel bowl to seep. Fuel filter every 10k miles. Get yourself an obd2 bluetooth reader and the car gauge pro app for android. Allows you to do a buzz test and contribution test. CPS is known to go out. Glow plug relay is weak. A properly working truck should start no matter the temps if fuel is not gelled. I treat my fuel every tank from sept-may. My truck has started just fine at -15 with out being plugged in.

[ZOSO]

look here too.

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/index.php

[Gunnibronco]

if it looks like a rear main leak it's not. Most likely the turbo pedestal o rings. While it's running take the oil fill cap off and turn it over. If it blows off there is excessive blow by. the early 7.3 power strokes are non intercooled. Pre 99 has smaller injectors and less power. Some 01's to 03 have PMR rods(weak). Take an inspection mirror and flash light. Look against the firewall at the up pipes to see if there is any soot build up. If there is the gaskets are shot=high egt/low boost. With the higher sulfur content in the fuel causes the orings in the fuel bowl to seep. Fuel filter every 10k miles. Get yourself an obd2 bluetooth reader and the car gauge pro app for android. Allows you to do a buzz test and contribution test. CPS is known to go out. Glow plug relay is weak. A properly working truck should start no matter the temps if fuel is not gelled. I treat my fuel every tank from sept-may. My truck has started just fine at -15 with out being plugged in.

Thanks,

Which of these issues are easily/cheaply repaired & which are problems you'd walk away from?

It will just be a lumber-getter & tow rig for hauling the Bronco mostly. I won't be using it daily, but want it to be reliable without costing a fortune to make reliable. Mostly I'd like to do more serious stuff with the Bronco but don't want to worry about being stranded if the Bronco breaks.

[ZOSO]

If you have basic mechanical skills and not afraid to turn a wrench then dont be scared. Everything I have had to tackle on my truck has been relatively easy. I've done unit bearings, shocks, turbo, fuel bowl, glow plugs, glow plug relay and other stuff. About to do the turbo again and bellowed up pipes. Lot's of trouble shooting info out there. If you do pick one up look into getting Auto enginuity if you dont get the droid app.

Oh also ball joints and unit bearings. a lot of weight up front. Also alternators go relatively quick.

Another thing is if your not afraid of a little wrenching to make it worth it but look into the 6.0's. A deleted and studded 6.0 is an awesome truck that could run circles around a 7.3.

[kbank6]

Just did my fuel bowl last week. This ULSD does not play well with the old O rings. Picked everything up from Diesel O Rings here in Colorado. I installed an intercooler for mine from Hypermax but have heard of a cheaper way to go.

[akaFrankCastle]

Don't buy a truck you haven't cold started. Lots of people selling trucks will plug them in before you arrive, or show them to you after they have been running around all day. Both of these situations can mask issues within the engines.

Just as Rob said, place the oil filler cap on top of the spout, upside down, to check for blowby (soon to be dead motor).

Check the coolant tank for oily/greasy film (a sign of cracked injector cups 200-400 bucks to fix).

Soot on the back of the firewall (blown exhaust donuts, higher EGTs, potentially melted pistons).

If the seller will let you, pull the intake from the turbo and check for play/pieces missing (dusted motor just waiting for a rebuild).

If gauges are present assume it has had a tuner installed. If a tuner is installed and you see no gauges, assume the motor or trans will fail within 50k of purchase. If possible, I would avoid a truck that has been chipped/tuner installed. UNLESS, the seller can speak confidently to the tunes and modifications to support them.

Finally, head over to FordTrucks.com and start reading in the 99.5-03 7.3 PowerStroke section. There have been several threads put together discussing what to look for in a used 7.3. I probably read about 7.3s for about 2 months before I even started looking for one.

[aaah1]

Another thing is if your not afraid of a little wrenching to make it worth it but look into the 6.0's. A deleted and studded 6.0 is an awesome truck that could run circles around a 7.3.

If I were to go buy a a diesel tomorrow it would most likely be a 6.0 given the price they tend to go for and come with coils and a better trans. Once deleted and studded are a great motor that hauls.

Still a 7.3 can be beat to hell and back and still run.

[kbank6]

I would stay far away from a 6.0..... They have to many issues with the injection system, EGR coolers, wiring harness, oil cooles and the list could go on. Everyone I know has had them in the shop several times for the injection issues and when I worked for the county they ended up getting rid of all the 6.0's they had for those reasons. You can find a good 7.3 that does not need a whole lot of work. CasedeJohnson scored a nice truck so they are out there.

[Gunnibronco]

Thanks for the advice.

I saw Cascadejohnson's "new" truck. I spoke to a guy recently with a 97 F350 regular cab. He said he might sell it in a couple months, and his price was right on. I then spoke to his wife and she said I'd have to fight their 14 year old, 4'11" daughter for the truck (a fight I think I can win), she wants it for her first car (only in Gunnison).

I've been browsing CL for a while, I might be going to GJ tomorrow night to look at a truck. Its under priced, needs a little body work. Its been for sale for a while, the clincher is that the motor was supposedly swapped at 60K for a new motor. He said it needs glow plugs, he has to plug it in if it sits all day or its hard to start. I wasn't really looking for a long bed. If I can get it cheap enough it will be worth it.


http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/4317136146.html

[Jesus_man]

My FIL bought my '02 7.3L after he sold his 6.0. Some very expensive parts on them that do fail. However, they are amazing when running right! Mine had just a tic over 100k on it. Never had to replace the clutch, nor the brakes. I did do ball-joints as a preventative measure. I had to replace HPOP o-rings and batteries (get a battery tender). I also did sway bar bushings. Mine was modded with intake, exhaust, turbo impeller (wicked wheel), and custom tunes. It pulled hard and I loved it!

I would go with a superduty ('99 and newer) for intercooler setup.

And if you aren't afraid to shift gears, the 6spd is great! The auto tranny isn't known for it's strength, but you can build them to be awesome. If you have an extra $4k laying around. With the mileage you are looking at, that is where my biggest concern would be if the engine checks out.

[kchaser]

Look other places, not just craigslist. Took about 6 months before I found mine. I bought my 2001 about two yrs ago from a Kia dealer in Greely. As soon as I seen it for sale I picked up and went to look at it. It was about 30 degrees in the morning the day I looked at it. Would not start. I knew (or hoped it was) the glow plug relay. Told them I didn't want it but to give me call if they got it started maybe I would come back. Took the family out for breakfast to waste time so it warmed up a little. Guess what, about done with breakfast they called... it started. I really low balled and they just wanted to get rid of it being a Kia dealer and all. 2001 crew cab with 68,000 miles. Love It. 7.3s are out there but are getting hard to come by. And yes. $12 glow plug relay on ebay and still starts like a top.

[ManTruck]

http://www.canonshopper.com/node/61303

Give it a look. I cant look at it due to me not being in town but worth the call.

[casadejohnson]

Here is my 2 cents. I looked at Diesels on and off for a couple years before I pulled the trigger. I have always liked the old body style but as others have said, they don't have an intercooler. In my reading, I learned that you can fit an intercooler from a later 7.3 or from a 6.0 if you are so inclined. I'm a junkyard hound so when the parts all present themselves I'll do that mod. I stayed away from the 6.0 for a couple reasons, 1) The problems that they are known for having can be pretty expensive to fix. 2) My cousin has worked as a Ford Service writer for years and has endless horror stories about 6.0's going south due to lack of maintenance. That said, lots of guys with 6.0's swear by them once the appropriate modifications have been made. Another thing to consider is that the Old Body Style trucks seem to ride more like a Truck than the newer ones. This was not on my "concerns list" but you may feel differently. 7.3's without mods or chips installed are few and far between but they are out there. Mine had a Superchips 80HP chip when I got it but it was not a large concern to me because the truck was a one owner vehicle and it does not appear that it has ever been neglected/ abused. The PO was also very up front with me about repairs that were done, things that I would have never known had he not told me. One other thing that was brought to my attention is that 95 and older may not communicate as well with an OBD2 scanner. In other words you might not be able to read the codes with a scanner. As it was explained to me, 96 was when OBD2 came into play and the OBD1's were phased out. Reading on the forums, some folks seem to have issues pulling codes even with the early 96's. It sounds like you are open to super cabs or maybe even regular cab trucks, that will give you a lot more choices than I had as I was looking only at crew cabs. I found several trucks that were very promising other than the fact that they did not meet my crew cab requirement. Good luck in your search, I'm really happy with the truck I found.

[akaFrankCastle]

You said you don't mind body work, right?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4329409488.html

[Gunnibronco]

You said you don't mind body work, right?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4329409488.html

That will buff out. Looks like he won at the roof races. I was just down the road from Fruita.

I bought the truck I listed above for $5500, I think it was worth the extra $1000, over the flattened one above. I'm going back Friday or Monday to pick it up. It needs tires, and maybe ball joints. The driver tire was worn on the outside shoulder. No soot, no oil in the coolant, oil cap didn't blow off the fill tube. The motor itself looked fairly new, clean, stickers, etc. Brakes, steering, etc all seemed good, drove very nice. The paint is checked, and it has some dents & dings. No chips, never modded, very stock.

Cost me my 1st speeding ticket. 55mph in a 45 zone. It was 45mph for about 500 yards, & I didn't see the sign. I had already passed a 55mph sign by the time he pulled me over, and I could see a 65mph sign while I was sitting waiting for my ticket. $170 for 10mph, really?

[Jesus_man]

Congrats on the purchase. The paint Crazing is very common. The top surfaces of my truck were like that. I appealed to FORD, but they said they were not going to do a thing about it.


Wait 1st speeding ticket?? Like Ever? Are you a Grandma driver? LOL!

Find you a junkyard Lariat interior and it'll make a world of difference. Oh, and we need better pics! Looks like the wheels are off a later model. And I think you'll be glad for the ZF6! It's hard to get used to, but it's fun!

I put an Icon leveling kit and 285/75 16's on mine and it looked much better. I took it in for an alignment and it was spot on!


For ball-joints, the moogs were great for me. Thing the best deal I found (years ago) was http://www.rockauto.com

Get it all buttoned up and then let the mods begin!

[Gunnibronco]

Yes, first ticket of any kind. Ever. Call me grannibronco, I probably deserve it. I've also been hassled by cops, car searched, accused of running drugs, etc. I was pulled over 2x in my early 20's (Missouri & Kansas State Troopers) and had my car searched- both times leaving with just a warning. So I figured I should slow down or cut my hair. Profiling is very real. I've been known to go *a little* fast in my 1983 911 on certain roads. Once I missed a 100mph+ ticket by about 500 yards, so maybe this was my karma.

Here are a couple more pics. The pink/orange "splash" will go away, quickly. Its not a looker, but it ran real good. Interior is a little threadbear & had a 5th wheel hitch at one time (wish it was a goose kneck ball).

It has manual hubs, is that rare, I think I read there are troubles with the auto hubs? Is that right?

The front end of my truck had been repaired and the paint checking is way worse than yours. When you paint & clear over checks, checking gets worse due to the extra layers/thickness of paint.

The owner was very fortcoming on all "little" problems, and has been using it as a daily driver for the last few years.

Thanks for all the advice, I felt like at least I could check the few trouble areas possible. I would have loved a $10000+ truck, but I'd have to get rid of my 300C to afford that, and I'm not ready to drive an extended cab, long bed everytime I need to leave Gunnison.

[Jesus_man]

It has manual hubs, is that rare, I think I read there are troubles with the auto hubs? Is that right?

You probably have an "auto" and a "lock" position on your hubs.

Never had an issue with mine. And never really dug into why those two settings. I was guessing that if you know you're going to need 4WD - lock them in because it probably takes a bit of spinning to engage them. So if you're already stuck, you might have trouble getting the fronts to pull. But if you're just driving on slippery roads, auto is probably the best as you don't have that additional drag supplying power to the front tires?? FWIW.

Looks like some elbow grease will make it a nice rig!

[aaah1]

That was quick congrats on the truck.
That's a great deal especially for a manual. I've always preferred cloth over the older leather unless it's the king ranch.

Every time I buy a new car I always give it a good wax and it is amazing what a difference that makes.
It's like people never heard of wax.

Sounds like a speed trap place to get people from out of town. Go to the court date half the time the cop doesn't even show up and it gets dismissed.

[Gunnibronco]

That was quick congrats on the truck.
That's a great deal especially for a manual.
Sounds like a speed trap place to get people from out of town. Go to the court date half the time the cop doesn't even show up and it gets dismissed.

I've been looking for a while, just posted up after I started talking to the guy with the truck I bought. So I knew the value. Hopefully it IS a good deal, and not a lemon.

There are 2 traffic lights on HWY 50 between Delta & Montrose. Just before each light the speed limit drops from 65 to 45. It was late 10:45 and I just didn't see the sign. I thought the guy would just give me a warning, but no. I guess he hadn't met his quota this month.

Not sure taking a day off work and driving to Montrose is worth it. In small towns, the cops have a little more time to make the court dates than maybe in the big city. Oh well.

[Moab Mike]

Well played sir, well played. Welcome to the Powerstroke world, you'll be impressed.

[ZOSO]

Enjoy it. Lots of good info all over. But the big thing is first things first is get an EGT gauge. Tap it into the drivers manifold. Then just drive by the EGT. they will run all day at 1250* but can start to melt over 1300* In one of my tunes towing up the hills I could bury my EGT at 1500+ I just back out of the throttle and run it right around 1200-1250*

[Jesus_man]

That's one advantage I liked with the ZF6 is it was easier to drive by EGT's. I could run a fairly hot tune and just watch my EGT gauge. But if you're getting a pod, you might as well get a 3-pod.

The E15 fuel thread made me remember ULSD fuel. You might want to consider running a lubricity treatment in each tank as that is what the sulfur in the old diesel provided. Being in Gunnison, I would think you'll want to run an anti-gel as well. Lots of good ones out there to do both. I liked Schaeffer Oil products.

And if you don't drive the truck fairly regularly, I would recommend a battery tender. It requires a 5W version to keep both batteries going, but it'll pay for itself the first time you don't have to replace batteries.

As a safety thing, if you plug your truck oil heater in, consider installing a Marinco power inlet. So many of the PSD's burn to the ground because the heater plug shorts from being moved every day.

I am sure my memory will keep jogging and I'll have some more stuff for you!

[ZOSO]

Another note about the block heater is Only need to run it for an hour or 2 before you need the truck. I actually built a timer with an outside air temp switch for mine. If its between 2am and 8am and below 28* the block heater will turn on if I plugged it in. And if you need to replace the glow plug relay do not get a stock one. Go with the stancor/white rogers relay.

[Jesus_man]

Another note about the block heater is Only need to run it for an hour or 2 before you need the truck. I actually built a timer with an outside air temp switch for mine. If its between 2am and 8am and below 28* the block heater will turn on if I plugged it in.

Did almost the same thing, but never could get the temp part figured out. Wanted to do exactly what you are doing tho. 4hrs is to have warm air within minutes of driving. 2hrs was long enough for it to start fairly easily.

[ZOSO]

Another note about the block heater is Only need to run it for an hour or 2 before you need the truck. I actually built a timer with an outside air temp switch for mine. If its between 2am and 8am and below 28* the block heater will turn on if I plugged it in.

Did almost the same thing, but never could get the temp part figured out. Wanted to do exactly what you are doing tho. 4hrs is to have warm air within minutes of driving. 2hrs was long enough for it to start fairly easily.

It was easy and free. My last job I did building automation/controls. So all the parts I needed were available to me. I found a new but old outside air limit switch on the shelf. The temp is adjustable from -20 to +40. Works awesome.

[Jesus_man]

Gotta love those job perks!!