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www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com :: View topic - 7.3L diesel advice
www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com
http://coloradoclassicbroncos.com/

7.3L diesel advice
http://coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5993
Page 12 of 12

Author:  Rox Crusher [ Wed Dec 23, 2015 7:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  ZOSO [ Wed Dec 23, 2015 7:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  Justin [ Wed Dec 23, 2015 8:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Throw some blizzaks on the Mustang and go have fun!

Author:  ZOSO [ Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  Justin [ Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Running and driving is overrated. Just ask my bronco.

Author:  akaFrankCastle [ Thu Dec 24, 2015 8:44 am ]
Post subject:  7.3L diesel advice

I hope it's only the turbo. What happened?

In other 7.3 news, I pulled the 73 back to Missouri yesterday. 600 or so miles. About 5-6k hanging off the back bumper. Didn't lose any injectors or lock the engine. 222 mile stretch at 77mph, 6-8psi, 90-110*F over ambient, and 8-10k*F on the EGTs. 12.33 mpg.

Definitely time for a regear.

Found best mpg over 70mph was at 2k rpm and >10psi.

Author:  ZOSO [ Thu Dec 24, 2015 5:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

the thrust bearing is bad. Causes the shaft to slide over. Which means the compressor wheels kisses the compressor housing. I caught it early enough that it didnt pump tons of metal shaving into the motor. I only drove it about 2 miles once I heard the squealing. It would come and go.




So I made a phone call in hopes someone would be open today. As luck would have it Bob and dieselOrings was there. Talked to him about it for some time and decided that the best solution is go 38r. So I borrowed a car and drove out to weldona to get it.




its all back together now. I just went for a short drive to check for oil leaks is all.

Author:  ZOSO [ Fri Dec 25, 2015 1:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Well I drove it around a little now. I don't like the 38r. It doesn't "hit" as hard as the stock with billet wheel did. Seems to spool a little sooner ~1400-1500rpm vs 1700-1800. But it takes a while to hit full boost. I need to go through it and check for boost leaks and exhaust leaks but im only hitting 21psi vs the old setup at 27-28psi.

Author:  Jesus_man [ Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Do you have a tuner on your truck Rob? I don't know much about aftermarket turbos, but I assume the compression side on the 38r is larger than stock?

Author:  ZOSO [ Mon Dec 28, 2015 6:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  akaFrankCastle [ Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Image

4.5 hour oil change. I rebuilt the oil cooler while I was at it.

Two weeks ago I was in KC when I notice the axle tube under the front of the truck was wet. I peered underneath and found a slightly loose hose clamp on the radiator. After I tightened it, I checked the fluid on the tube: oil. Further investigation showed my oil cooler was blowing crude past the o rings when cold. After some very anxious googling I found that the problem goes away once the motor is warm and the seals expand. I was pretty relieved as I thought I would be tearing my motor apart in MO versus CO.

Anyhow, I ordered the new o ring kit from Bob at dieselorings.com and put it in tonight during my oil change. I was due for new crude anyhow.

Needless to say, it was a messy venture. But a test fire has shown that everything is holding as it should. Which is good. Because I'm putting 1200+ miles on it this weekend.

I would DEFINITELY recommend this to anyone with 150k+ on their motors. I did not take pictures, but what I found was about 50% of the coolant passages through the cooler were clogged with crap. So, I was only getting about 40-50% effective oil cooling.

My original plan had me using the oil cooler from my builder motor. That plan was quickly scrapped when I found this.

Image

It's full of aluminum shavings from when two pistons proved the 1220*F melting point.

Author:  akaFrankCastle [ Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Here's what those passages look like with a bottle cap for scale.


Image


Not much room for error. Or crud.

Author:  Jesus_man [ Fri Jan 29, 2016 2:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Wow, those are small passages!!

Good work!

Author:  BroncoCrawler [ Fri Jan 29, 2016 9:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

Wow....I've rebuilt alot of those over the years in trucks with 200k plus and never seen one with as much metal in it as yours.

Author:  akaFrankCastle [ Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:01 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  BroncoCrawler [ Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

What kinda mechanic would just replace two pistons in an engine that suffered that kinda trauma and not tear it completely down?

Author:  akaFrankCastle [ Sat Jan 30, 2016 10:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  BroncoCrawler [ Sat Jan 30, 2016 7:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

gotcha ok makes much more sense now. I did the same thing. bought a complete 7.3 turbo, injectors, and hpop for $300. got it home and did a compression check found #8 to be 100psi. its currently in my shed and some day i'll build it but for now my 350K truck keeps running strong so it hasn't been a priority

Author:  casadejohnson [ Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  cravenbronco [ Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice


Author:  Gunnibronco [ Wed Mar 09, 2016 1:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 7.3L diesel advice

I'm getting ready to order a new ring & pinion & master bearing kit for my SD.

Ron's Machining Services was linked as a less expensive alternative to Randy's Ring & Pinion, in one of the forums I was reading. Their prices on the master bearing kits are MUCH lower than Randys or another place I checked (Filthy).

Ron's has gear & install kit package for the 10.25 (can be installed in a 10.5) priced at:

Yukon gear & USA Std bearings $400
http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net/gea ... -gear-pkg/

USA Std gear & USA Std bearings $320
http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net/gea ... r-package/

They don't have a 10.5" kit listed, when I spoke to them months ago, they didn't think the .25" larger ring mattered & suggested the 10.25" kit as fine.

To compare, Randy's sells the 10.25 gears & kits separate priced at:
Yukon gear & USA Std bearing: $608
https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductD ... rodID=6595
https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductD ... ProdID=253

USA Std gear & USA Std bearing: $529
https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductD ... ProdID=254

Filthy's prices were similar to Randy's, but they didn't offer the USA Std bearing set.

Just want to make sure I'm not missing something critical between the products. I've never done a new ring & pinion & bearings, so I want someone else's opinon.

I'm leaning towards the 10.25 USA Std gear & bearing since I've read decent reviews of the gears, and I'm not going to be towing heavy equipment or a huge camper trailer, just the Bronco.

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