Steering linkage help needed

[Justin]

I'm trying to tighten up my steering and have a lot of play in the stock tie rod and drag link on my '71. The tie rod will rotate at least 30-40 degrees when moved by hand. The studs on the ends where the rod bolts through the knuckle appear to have no play in them. I'm no genius, but feel pretty comfortable that this isn't how things are supposed to be. I've never taken one of these apart, so I don't know exactly how they are set up, but I'm guessing the tie rod ends are shot. The boots are fairly worn as well. Is there any way to rebuild them and if not what are my options for an upgrade? I'm aware of the heim joint/DOM tubing options, but really want to be able to get parts anywhere and would like something less expensive if possible. Is the F-150 setup worth the hassle of shortening the links (not sure how much hassle it is, really)? I'm also considering Blazer rod ends with DOM tube as a compromise solution. Any options I'm missing or should consider? If it matters, I may move the tie rod over the knuckle. Video of the steering linkage moving with Alex providing the soundtrack:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztkgb7qh8wo

[akaFrankCastle]

IF you do decide to replace/upgrade, consider going away from the stock Bronco set up if you are looking for something you can quickly replace. Took me about 2 days to get tie rods and a drag link ordered from Advanced as no one in town had them in stock.

The Chevy tie rod over conversion might give you a quick replacement option, but I'm not certain.

[Justin]

Zilla, can do, just need to get a jack tall enough to lift this thing up. Its a tiny bit taller than my Mazda (which is also mostly Ford, this entertains me). Frank, they're also damn expensive when you figure the GM parts run about $25 each. I'm guessing it'd be no more than $150-$200 to replace both the tie rod and drag link. For starter, though, does the amount of play shown in the vid appear normal to you?

[Kinder]

It doesn't look terribly abnormal, my tie rods rotate through their movement as well but it does take some effort. It seems that yours move a bit too easy and then I don't have any clicking in mine like I hear in your video, unless that sound is coming from somewhere else.

[ZOSO]

I am running this set-up on my 79 and have been happy with it so far. I also have the reamer to do this correctly. Flip them on top of the knuckles.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ste ... _1338.html

[Justin]

Kinder, the clicking is from the links. That is part of what is making me thing they're worn. ZOSO, I saw that and was interested. While I've been reading up on the chevy conversion I've seen some people just tapping the tubing to install the rod ends. Wasn't sure how well that worked or if an insert would be needed. I'm not sure I need to go all the way up to 1.5" tubing as well-I've got concerns about losing steering angle and possible track bar mount interference if I go TRO.

[ZOSO]

I went with the weld in bungs. Had my buddy tig weld them in for me. I thought about gettin smaller tube and tapping it. But the taps are not cheap especially the LH thread. It was cheaper to buy the taper reamer and have it welded up than buy the taps.

[airbur]

Is your steering (at the wheel) loose? Or are you just worried about the play in the linkage?

[Justin]

I can turn the wheel 2 or 3 inches in either direction. It is a bit scary to drive.

[Woodscaper]

If you do end up going over the knuckle it could be possible that your wheels will rub the tie rod ends. Wheel spacers or new wheels could be in order.

[Justin]

I'm hoping to get some rod end today to check that. I may also go heims to deal with the bad angles on my rig, but I don't like that they aren't sealed. That'd at least take care of most of the clearance problems.

[ZOSO]

Dont run heims if its a street drivin truck. My buddy does on his dodge and it has messed up the knuckles. Only way to run them is running these bolts from BC's.

For the bad angles just do a tre flip.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_ ... cts_id=770

[Justin]

Thanks for the link and info. The only thing that will have me running heims at this point is if the GM parts don't clear. I suspect that high misalignment rod ends and a flip should take care of it. May need to relocate the track bar, but I probably need to do that anyway.

[Justin]

Thanks. Thats what I'm inclined towards, too. I don't like the idea of not having any kind of boot covering and helping lubricate the heim, and the $30 price of the TRE is also appealing.

[ZOSO]

Thanks. Thats what I'm inclined towards, too. I don't like the idea of not having any kind of boot covering and helping lubricate the heim, and the $30 price of the TRE is also appealing.

One other thing to think about too is if your out wheelin in the middle of no where, you break a heim. Where are you gonna go to get a new one? Most any mom n pops auto shops will have or can get a GM tre pretty easy. If you dont have this done by time we do your carb i'll bring my 79 so you can see it. Or if you have it all by then i'll bring my reamer and we can do a tech day and get it all done.

[Woodscaper]

I'm hoping to get some rod end today to check that. I may also go heims to deal with the bad angles on my rig, but I don't like that they aren't sealed. That'd at least take care of most of the clearance problems.

I have a set of 1/2" spacers that I had made when I did my GM 1 ton TRE flip, 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern if you need them. I no longer use them. If you want them PM me, it will save you some $ and some lead time.

[Justin]

jt, thank you. The offer is much appreciated. Just eyeballing it I think I'm OK, but will keep it in mind if I run into problems.