Tips & Tricks

[Lobobronco]

Thought it would be good to start a thread on "'Tips and Tricks"....

I know it is great when someone gives me the "easy" way to do something, so thought with all this knowledge around maybe we could start a thread.

Could be anything from as easy as "bring a tarp along to throw down when you are going to have to work on the truck in the muck". Yup...carry one all the time now and have one for the driveway!

Post up and tell us how to do it easier!!!!

Matt

[ZOSO]

Good idea. Here's one that I use.

For anyone running a carb off road should have the spring loaded needle and seats. Also a trick I use is put a fuel pressure regulator in. And when going wheelin turn it down to 2psi or so. Just DONT forget to turn the pressure back up before hitting the road or you'll run it lean. The lower fuel pressure keeps the carb from flooding when the floats are bouncing.

[Entourage]

Bring ViperWolf.

[Viperwolf1]

This is applicable to almost everything. Before you take something apart take digital pictures. When you're taking it apart bag/label the parts. Take more pictures. When you have an assembly taken apart put the bolts/screws back in there original holes if possible so you so you know where they all are and where they go.

[hockeydad4-22]

When checking electrical issues - Check the ground first. I have lost count of the times I have chased all over a vehicle looking for a short, bad switch or relay, only to find a loose or broken ground.

[Brianut]

This is applicable to almost everything. Before you take something apart take digital pictures. When you're taking it apart bag/label the parts. Take more pictures. When you have an assembly taken apart put the bolts/screws back in there original holes if possible so you so you know where they all are and where they go.

along the lines of this.
Muffin pans work great for keeping nuts,bolts or screws together where they belong.
just use some tape to mark each muffin hole as to where those parts came from.

[Viperwolf1]

This is applicable to almost everything. Before you take something apart take digital pictures. When you're taking it apart bag/label the parts. Take more pictures. When you have an assembly taken apart put the bolts/screws back in there original holes if possible so you so you know where they all are and where they go.

along the lines of this.
Muffin pans work great for keeping nuts,bolts or screws together where they belong.
just use some tape to mark each muffin hole as to where those parts came from.

I use one when I take a valve body apart. Don't want to get springs in the wrong place.

[Colorado75bronc]

here's a couple, i know more but this came to mind first, if you run a holley set your float levels low, to where your have to rock the truck to get the fuel to slosh out of the sight hole, this helps drastically with offroad performance, you can also make a cross-over vent tube and install a vent whistle, but those other mods are a little more in depth, classicbroncos.com has a write up on holley carb offroad tips/tricks, and so far i've been far more impressed with my properly setup holley offroad than any of the multiple edelbrocks i've had over the years, although i haven't thoroughly put it thorough its paces, ive been over some pretty good hills, and thorough some rough ditches and ruts that it used to complain on with the edelbrock, i just gotta get it in the rocks now, but i still can't wait till i have all the stuff for efi

if installing a body lift and you don't have access to a shop lift, set e-brake and chock the wheels, loosen one whole side of the body a couple turns on each bolt, remove all the bolts from the other side, and use a 2x4 or 4x4 thats as long as your rocker panel or close to and a highlift jack, 2 preferably for safety, but you can with one, complete the body lift on that side of the truck, tighten the completed side down snug, repeat on the other side, also air hammers/air chisels make easy work of removing stubborn old bodymounts

[Viperwolf1]

if installing a body lift and you don't have access to a shop lift, set e-brake and chock the wheels, loosen one whole side of the body a couple turns on each bolt, remove all the bolts from the other side, and use a 2x4 or 4x4 thats as long as your rocker panel or close to and a highlift jack, 2 preferably for safety, but you can with one, complete the body lift on that side of the truck, tighten the completed side down snug, repeat on the other side, also air hammers/air chisels make easy work of removing stubborn old bodymounts

I'll expand on this one some more. Rusted together original bushings can be removed easily.

On the front four bushings remove (or break) the bolts. Then use a small (7/8" or so) hole saw and cut the center out of the bottom. Then they just fall apart.

For the rear four loosen the bolts to bring the heads up about an inch. Then beat the bolt back down with a big hammer. Busts them loose everytime.

[ZOSO]

Good idea. Here's one that I use.

For anyone running a carb off road should have the spring loaded needle and seats. Also a trick I use is put a fuel pressure regulator in. And when going wheelin turn it down to 2psi or so. Just DONT forget to turn the pressure back up before hitting the road or you'll run it lean. The lower fuel pressure keeps the carb from flooding when the floats are bouncing.

Here is a trick i use for the edelbrock carbs. Since they dont seem to like to run on it's side. If you take the top off the carb and look on the back side. you'll see the passage across the back that goes between the float bowls. Block this passage. I used a piece vacuum hose. Works like a charm. You can see this on the right side of the picture.

[Jesus_man]

Learned a new one with my recent tranny install. When bleeding your slave cylinder, you should bleed it by normal means, but if you're not getting the pedal feel you want, there should be an inspection port on the tranny near the bell housing. Stick a pri-bar in there and manually push the slave cylinder back slowly to get rid of the stubborn bubbles. I did this once with a little improvement, but would like to try again.

J.D.

[Lobobronco]

As I just had the front bearing almost weld itself to the shaft....

Found a clamp type device from harbor freight (anyone is more than welcome to borrow) and then borrowed a 2 jaw puller from Autozone to get it off. Put a 3/16" plate over the end of the axle for a jacking point. Worked like a charm with a good 1/2" drive.

Matt

[Jesus_man]

For your carb'ed guys - my dad (a diesel mechanic) told me to run a gallon of diesel in with the gas to help prevent vapor lock. Diesel has a higher boiling point so the mixture seems to give you a few more degrees before the fuel with turn to a gas.

J.D.

[ZOSO]

For your carb'ed guys - my dad (a diesel mechanic) told me to run a gallon of diesel in with the gas to help prevent vapor lock. Diesel has a higher boiling point so the mixture seems to give you a few more degrees before the fuel with turn to a gas.

J.D.

Also a trick for vapor lock is to just run higher pressure. Then regulate it down right at the carb. On my 79 i run 14pri till about a foot from the carb then regulate it down to 5-6 psi for street and 2psi wheelin.

[rtreads]

...always carry a spill kit on the trail. Leaks on the trail are not uncommon, and preventing damage to the enviroment will help to keep the trails open.

[gslack]

id say carry food, tools, water, jumper cables etc inside ur car. i do at all times.