Full width axle swap 76 f150

[rooster]

That would be awesome! How much would you charge for that?

[Justin]

Nothing. Just bring it over with a tie rod end. Your other option is to drill a straight 7/8" hole and use a tapered sleeve.

[ZOSO]

I have it and can ream your knuckles.

As in you have my reamer?

[Justin]

Yes, I have your reamer.

[rooster]

Justin that would be awesome, do you think Friday or Saturday would work for you?

[Justin]

I could do Friday after work or Saturday mid to late afternoon.

[rooster]

Cool man I think either one will work for me, I will let you know.

Before I put this front axle back together I wanted to see what you guys think about my gear pattern check . Backlash is a little tight with a .005 to .006 reading.

This is the first gear set I've set up ,based on everything I've researched I think it's pretty close, but wanted to ask the experts!

These are also new gears, don't know if that matters or not

[Digger]

Looks good from the pictures.

[rooster]

I forgot to mention basically all my shims ended up being on the on the side pushing the ring gear away from the pinnion, do you think that this could result in not enough spline contact on the axle shaft the carrier is moved away from? I really hope I can get away with leaving it as I've had it apart like 7 times to get to where I'm at now

[rooster]

Well I finally had some time to get my front axle all buttoned up, ARB installed, and everything torqed down. and I have to say it was a great learning experience, pinnion pre load is 21 inch pounds and my back lash is now at .007 and carrier bearing pre load is good to so imma call it good. I have the older style ARB but upon inspection everything looked to be in great shape including the bearings so I just reinstalled it as it was (hopefully it'll be okay) anybody know if getting the marking compound off completely is super important.?

[Jesus_man]

Good work! The bronco has two great styles of axles to learn on, the 9" being the easiest and the D44 being a fair bit more difficult!

As to the marking compound - you could spray it off with brake cleaner or the like, but I don't think there is a need.

You have an HD diff cover for that axle?

[rooster]

Thanks! Ya I'm glad I decided to try it, the 9" already has the right gears so I'll just swap the whole 3rd member into the full width housing.

And no all I have is the stock one...

[Jesus_man]

Makes sense to put one on now. I like my GLO (Great Lakes Offroad) cover.

Looks like you can now add a drain plug!

http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/GLO-Dan ... Cover.html

[rooster]

Ya your probably right , that thing looks awesome! Want to do this right the first time... But cheaply as possible:) if anybody has a heavy duty cover they want to sell id be interested

I also really like this one from sexton...

http://sextonoffroad.com/i-7543152-d44- ... cover.html

[Jesus_man]

That looks really nice, but you lose the ability to weld to it if you ever decide that is a good place to weld hydraulic ram mounting tabs. I was able to mount my ram without welding to the diff cover, but it is a popular place to mount one.

[rooster]

Good point with it being cast iron, the ram doesn't stress the cover bolts too much? I would definitely like to add a ram some day

[Jesus_man]

I much prefer NOT to weld to the diff cover for a ram mount because the back and forth pulling loosens the bolts overtime and you will likely be leaking before you snap bolts. But sometimes the geometry dictates where those brackets go.

[rooster]

Ya you would think that would be problematic after some time

Anybody have the sexton dana 44 'bronco' script cover?
If so how do you like it and does it stick out considerably father than stock?

[rooster]

Had some time to work on the bronco today, decided to get the duff offset spring towers, so I cut the old ones off. Also decided to get a new track bar bracket from ruffstuff. It will definitely need to be cut down but it will work after that I think. Hopefully cause I cut the stock one off

[rooster]

Got some time this weekend to get some work done to the front axle, basically ready to be installed under the truck,

[rooster]

Do you guys think that setting toe in would be easier with the axle out vs in?


Also big thanks to Justin for reaming out my knuckles and pitman arm for chevy tie rod conversion

[Digger]

Get it close with the axle out, but check it once installed.

[cravenbronco]

Stupid question. How are you going to lift the front end ?

[Justin]

Welcome. What Digger said.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

[rooster]

I have the front supported by the tallest jack stands I could get my hands on, I was able to lower the old axle down far enough to take the pressure of the springs , so my plan was to roll the new axle underneath with two roll around floor Jacks ,one underneath each axle wedge.and then once I got it close I would jack them both up enough to put a small jack stand on each side or something to support the axle high enough to bolt the radius arms on.

...at least that was my plan... I also thought about putting the tires back on and rolling it underneath like that but it would be a lot more difficult to get around the jack stands that are holding up my frame that way

[Justin]

I've got a spare POS harbor freight trans jack the worked great to move mine around. Not sure if you ever get down this way, but you're welcome to borrow it. Dragging it also works. I was able to loft one end at a time and then have a helper put a jack stand under it.

[rooster]

Hey that's a great idea! My dad actually has a really nice tranny jack but I appreciate the offer! Also do you think if I decide to keep the axle in the stock location it would be a good idea to still move the coil towers 1" forward, or would this cause excessive coil bow? I figured if I do it this way it will make moving the axle easier in the future should I feel the need

[rooster]

Hey that's a great idea! My dad actually has a really nice tranny jack but I appreciate the offer! Also do you think if I decide to keep the axle in the stock location it would be a good idea to still move the coil towers 1" forward, or would this cause excessive coil bow? I figured if I do it this way it will make moving the axle easier in the future should I feel the need

[Jesus_man]

I would move the axle as far forward as you can now. It won't get easier down the road. My memory is failing right now, but I think mine is forward either 2" or 3". Mine is about as far forward as you can go without moving the steering box.

[Gunnibronco]

I've moved mine forward almost 2", but had to push the new 4x4x2 box forward, right up against the front body mount (it would also be in my core support, if I still had one). I won't comment on if you should do it now, I clearly have bad judgement in that department. But you'll be moving your radius arm mounts, and shock mounts, as well as your track bar to get it all forward (now or in the future). Use your best judgement.