How to remove transmission

[laffycaffi]

Yesterday I noticed my 72 was revving high as I was driving in 3rd gear. Figure it's time to replace the clutch. I had plans on camping and hitting some trails on memorial day weekend so I want to get moving on this.

I was searching this forum for any tips or instructions. Does anyone know of a good resource? I've done all of my own work in the past 8 years that I've had my bronco but this one has me a little overwhelmed and limited online resources from what I can find.

Also I live in Centennial/Aurora area so if anyone is interested in coaching, I'd be happy to get the smoker going and hook anyone up with some ribs and beer. Or whatever. Ha ha. Just a little bribe.

Thanks,
Mark

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[phyler]

Assuming you have the stock 3 speed? If so, it's not super difficult. Pull the transmission and the transfer case as a unit. That's the hard part cause it's heavy and awkward. A good transmission jack is worth it's weight for this. It can be done with two regular jacks but I like the tranny jack to balance it all on.

Get everything but the cross member unbolted then you really only need an extra set of hands for lowering it. Push it back out of the way, put in the new clutch (remember to resurface the flywheel or get a new one), then lift the combo back in place.

Hope this helps get you started.

Sent from my Venue 8 7840 using Tapatalk

[Digger]

The generic procedure for 4x4 transmission removal goes something like this:

1. Remove driveshafts, clutch linkage (or hydraulic lines), speedo cable, transfercase linkage and transmission shifter
2. Remove exhaust (if necessary, most are in the way somehow)
3. Support transmission and remove crossmember (use transmission jack)
4. Slightly lower transmission and remove the 6 bellhousing bolts.
5. Wiggle transmission and t-case free. Keep the transmission as square to the engine as possible to prevent input shaft damage.
6. Carefully lower transmission out of the way. WARNING, these things are heavy and awkward when you are laying on your back. They have a tendency to shift at the wrong time. Strap it down to the transmission jack.
7. With transmission out of the way, remove clutch, resurface flywheel or replace, replace throwout and pilot bearings. (DO NOT reuse throwout or pilot bearings. Murphy guarantees they will fail soon after and you will be pulling the trans again). Removal of the pilot bearing may require a small slide hammer.
8. Install new flywheel, torquing crank bolts to mfg's torque spec.
9. Install new clutch, using supplied alignment tool before tightening.
10. Lift and position transmission for installation. You want to make sure the bellhousing faces are parallel top-to-bottom and side-to-side. If it is not lined up, it will not go. PRO-TIP: put the transmission in the highest gear. As you bring the transmission and engine together, the input splines will connect and if they are not lined up, they will not go. By hand wiggle the transmission (or t-case) output back and forth as you push forward on the transmission. You will feel it when the two slip together. Ideally, you should be able to put the bellhousing faces together all the way. Sometimes there might be a small gap (1/8") that you can close by tightening the bell housing bolts. DO NOT try to draw them together will longer bolts. If you cant get them close enough to use the factory bolts, something is hanging up.
11. With the transmission back in place, reverse steps 4-1.

[laffycaffi]

The generic procedure for 4x4 transmission removal goes something like this:

1. Remove driveshafts, clutch linkage (or hydraulic lines), speedo cable, transfercase linkage and transmission shifter
2. Remove exhaust (if necessary, most are in the way somehow)
3. Support transmission and remove crossmember (use transmission jack)
4. Slightly lower transmission and remove the 6 bellhousing bolts.
5. Wiggle transmission and t-case free. Keep the transmission as square to the engine as possible to prevent input shaft damage.
6. Carefully lower transmission out of the way. WARNING, these things are heavy and awkward when you are laying on your back. They have a tendency to shift at the wrong time. Strap it down to the transmission jack.
7. With transmission out of the way, remove clutch, resurface flywheel or replace, replace throwout and pilot bearings. (DO NOT reuse throwout or pilot bearings. Murphy guarantees they will fail soon after and you will be pulling the trans again). Removal of the pilot bearing may require a small slide hammer.
8. Install new flywheel, torquing crank bolts to mfg's torque spec.
9. Install new clutch, using supplied alignment tool before tightening.
10. Lift and position transmission for installation. You want to make sure the bellhousing faces are parallel top-to-bottom and side-to-side. If it is not lined up, it will not go. PRO-TIP: put the transmission in the highest gear. As you bring the transmission and engine together, the input splines will connect and if they are not lined up, they will not go. By hand wiggle the transmission (or t-case) output back and forth as you push forward on the transmission. You will feel it when the two slip together. Ideally, you should be able to put the bellhousing faces together all the way. Sometimes there might be a small gap (1/8") that you can close by tightening the bell housing bolts. DO NOT try to draw them together will longer bolts. If you cant get them close enough to use the factory bolts, something is hanging up.
11. With the transmission back in place, reverse steps 4-1.

This is an incredible summary! Thank you for taking the time to write that up! I'll follow this step by step. Maybe I'll document it with some photos and video and add to it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[B.O.B.]

I had to bench press mine. Good thing I was young. Now I’m not sure I can do it.

[B.O.B.]

Hit me up though if you need help. Sounds like I’m not too far from you.

[laffycaffi]

Hit me up though if you need help. Sounds like I’m not too far from you.

Thanks for the offer! I may take you up on that. Feeling a little scared to try this solo! With two people, how much time do you think is required? I'm thinking I'd need to break it up into three phases (mostly because with two small kids, I'm only good for a couple hours at a time under the bronco!): removal of transmission, replacing the clutch and some seals (I have some leaking going on there, currently), re-installing transmission.

[laffycaffi]

A good transmission jack is worth it's weight for this.

In your opinion, what's the best transmission jack out there? Looks like Harbor Freight has one that is cheap but has good reviews: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotiv ... 61232.html

Also is the replacement clutch I can order through my local auto parts store, or should I defer instead to Wild Horses, et al...

The local parts store quoted about $100 and had two styles, "Heavy duty" and something else. Wild Horses has me feeling more confident but their stock replacement is $170.

[phyler]

A good transmission jack is worth it's weight for this.

In your opinion, what's the best transmission jack out there? Looks like Harbor Freight has one that is cheap but has good reviews: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotiv ... 61232.html

Also is the replacement clutch I can order through my local auto parts store, or should I defer instead to Wild Horses, et al...

The local parts store quoted about $100 and had two styles, "Heavy duty" and something else. Wild Horses has me feeling more confident but their stock replacement is $170.

I've used that Harbor Freight jack before and it was fine for the light transfer case I was dropping. I wouldn't use it for the Bronco combo if I could avoid it. It uses a ratchet to raise and lower versus being hydrologic.

A good jack is gonna be expensive. I would easily drive to Greeley or coordinate a handoff for Scott's.

Your local Napa should be able to get you a good clutch. The last time I did mine I think I went with a Luk. If you are stock, no need for the heavy duty. Others will chime in I'm sure.

Sent from my Venue 8 7840 using Tapatalk

[Jesus_man]

Luk is a good brand. You wouldn't have any issues there.

Other than being awkward and heavy, there it's much to it. Going back in and making sure everything is aligned can be challenging, but patience and finesse will prevail.

[Digger]

Luk is a good brand. You wouldn't have any issues there.

but patience and finesse will prevail.

So true.

[laffycaffi]

20190505_120816-01.jpeg

Does it look like I have a rear transmission seal leak? Anything else I should plan on replacing while I'm in there?

[laffycaffi]

Quick question - also thanks B.O.B. for helping me to take out my transmission. I'm going to try to put it back in but take off the transfer case first. The trans jack was too wide to get past my exhaust pipes.

Quick question about the clutch, though. The reason why I needed to remove transmission is so that I can change the clutch. Is it as simple as removing the 5 bolts on the flywheel to get that off? Or is there more to it? There are a ton of videos online but not really specific to Early Bronco and seeing all sorts of different methods.

Thanks,
Mark

[Kinder]

Yes and no, those bolts hold the pressure plate in place, the clutch is sandwiched between the pressure plate and fly wheel so it’ll drop out when you pull the pressure plate. Do yourself a favor and just loosen all the bolts first, then take them all out except for the top most bolt, you can then pull the clutch down and then the last bolt to let the pressure plate down.

Questions for you.
Are you going to get the flywheel resurfaced/machined or are you replacing it?
Do you have the kit that includes the installation tool that centers the clutch when you attempt to reinstall everything?

Also there is a pilot bushing (old style) or bearing (new style) installed in the end of crank that is press fit, or at least should be unless it’s in bad shape and you should have a new one in the kit. Removing that isn’t too bad with the proper technique. Search online for a video and you’ll see some options for removing it, usually involving wet newspaper or heavy axle grease. Of course there is a puller that could likely be rented as well, your call if you want to use the garage mechanic method or more pro level.

[laffycaffi]

Funny, I found a video that showed a guy using a mix of grease and bread to get the pilot bushing out.

The clutch and pressure plate is already off.

Back to the pilot bushing/bearing... that's located behind the flywheel, correct? I do plan on replacing it. I don't know if I have a bushing or a bearing. But it's surely stock. So should I assume it's a bushing? Should I replace it with a bearing, or does it work like that?

Removing the fly wheel is just a matter of removing the bolts, correct? I haven't tried yet, but I hear the wheel wants to turn while trying to remove those bolts. Any tips/tricks there?

Thanks again!
Mark

Yes and no, those bolts hold the pressure plate in place, the clutch is sandwiched between the pressure plate and fly wheel so it’ll drop out when you pull the pressure plate. Do yourself a favor and just loosen all the bolts first, then take them all out except for the top most bolt, you can then pull the clutch down and then the last bolt to let the pressure plate down.

Questions for you.
Are you going to get the flywheel resurfaced/machined or are you replacing it?
Do you have the kit that includes the installation tool that centers the clutch when you attempt to reinstall everything?

Also there is a pilot bushing (old style) or bearing (new style) installed in the end of crank that is press fit, or at least should be unless it’s in bad shape and you should have a new one in the kit. Removing that isn’t too bad with the proper technique. Search online for a video and you’ll see some options for removing it, usually involving wet newspaper or heavy axle grease. Of course there is a puller that could likely be rented as well, your call if you want to use the garage mechanic method or more pro level.

[Kinder]

Yes, just bolts holding the flywheel on, they’ll need Blue Loctite applied when u put them back in. Bearing or bushing makes no difference, the bushing lasted this many years so put in what ever the kit contains. As for the motor rotating when you remove the bolts, an impact makes quick work of that. When you reinstall & torque them it’s handy to have another set of hands with the appropriate socket and large ratchet / breaker bar on the front of the engine stopping the rotation.

Funny, I found a video that showed a guy using a mix of grease and bread to get the pilot bushing out.

The clutch and pressure plate is already off.

Back to the pilot bushing/bearing... that's located behind the flywheel, correct? I do plan on replacing it. I don't know if I have a bushing or a bearing. But it's surely stock. So should I assume it's a bushing? Should I replace it with a bearing, or does it work like that?

Removing the fly wheel is just a matter of removing the bolts, correct? I haven't tried yet, but I hear the wheel wants to turn while trying to remove those bolts. Any tips/tricks there?

Thanks again!
Mark

[laffycaffi]

Couple more questions...
1. After the transmission was out, I found this broken wire. Any ideas what this is? Concerning?

2. Based off the other photos here, it's obvious that I've got some leaking. Any idea what seal or gaskets should be replaced?

Thanks again for all the help

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[cpldavis37]

I really have no idea, but that could be a reverse light or something. I have a C4 and I dont remember any electrical going to it. Mt reverse lights and neutral safety switch and now in my Shifter. Of course yours is different being a 3 spd.

[laffycaffi]

I really have no idea, but that could be a reverse light or something. I have a C4 and I dont remember any electrical going to it. Mt reverse lights and neutral safety switch and now in my Shifter. Of course yours is different being a 3 spd.

That's what I was thinking. My reverse lights have never worked.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Jesus_man]

Others with more knowledge will be better help, but I would bet there is a seal kit available for both the tranny and t-case that would come with all gaskets and seals needed to seal them back up.

[ZOSO]

With the way the engine looks id bet the engine leaks more than the trans.

[Viperwolf1]

Couple more questions...
1. After the transmission was out, I found this broken wire. Any ideas what this is? Concerning?

2. Based off the other photos here, it's obvious that I've got some leaking. Any idea what seal or gaskets should be replaced?

Thanks again for all the help

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Wow! You don't see those everyday. That is part of what Ford called a transmission regulated spark system. That switch at the front of the trans detected when the trans was in 3rd gear. The idea of the system was to limit ignition timing advance, under certain temperature conditions, until the trans was in 3rd gear. You will also have a temp sensor in the driver front door post. 1972 only stuff.

[Jesus_man]

..and you learn something every day too!! Cool!

[laffycaffi]

Having zero luck getting the trans back in. The fact that the transfer case is still attached is messing me up I think.

If I remove the transfer case and reinstall the transmission on it's own, is it going to be a pain trying to get the transfer case back on? Are there gaskets I'll need to replace?

Sorry for amateur questions, just never done this before.

[Jesus_man]

You can separate the two. There will be seals on the shaft of the tranny output and tcase input. So it should be dry between the two unless they are leaking and now would be a good time to know.

[laffycaffi]

Patience and Finesse prevailed. Well actually it was more like me going into a rage and shaking and twisting the transmission violently with my hands before the spindle finally popped into the bushing. I wouldn't say I did it with patience OR finesse ha ha.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Rox Crusher]

This is how it usually goes..........glad you got it to go together !