Upgraded steering

[B.O.B.]

Don’t think it’s time to update my steering. After years of my 35’s I think the tie rods are about ready to give up. What’s the best bang for your buck? Ruff stuff, duffs, toms, etc. I am a little confused with the ruff stuff as most of there kits come with a flat top knuckle conversion but I am not cool enough for that yet.

[Justin]

Here's what I'd suggest:

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=963&hilit=heavy+duty+tie+rod

And you are definitely cool enough for a tie rod over swap. If you do it, you'll need to correct your track bar alignment, but there's a couple easy ways to do that.

[TOOLMAN]

I did this one...

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-17831948-tie-rod-drag-link-dana-44-1976-1977-bronco-1-1-2-d-o-m-no-knuckle-reaming.html

Relatively affordable. In the long run, I can change out the ends and go over knuckle.

[phyler]

I did the Ruff Stuff. I like it. If you have stock knuckles and you don't want to do much work, i like the Wild Horses setups.

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[Kinder]

If you go ruffstuff get the “problem solver” it helps prevent the roll over & dead feel in the middle of the steering.

[TOOLMAN]

If you go ruffstuff get the “problem solver” it helps prevent the roll over & dead feel in the middle of the steering.

I was just researching this. Is it called "the cure?". And how is this implemented. The website is a little nebulous.

I bought the steering setup indicated in my link. Half ton rod ends at the knuckles, but one ton rod ends on the drag link (I wasn't ready to ream the knuckles yet in case I want to do TRO in the future, and then I can go 1 ton TRO).

I ask because I'm having some wandering problems. But the whole steering system has been replaced in the last two years (except the column), including a Viperwolf rebuild of the box, tie rods and drag link as previously mentioned, and the steering shaft from WH. It was a little scary going down Eisenhower when I went up to Leadville for the 4th at around 65 mph.

[Gunnibronco]

Yes, you are looking for "The Cure". I also read about installing the tie rods with the tie rod ends rotated back so the drag link drops down through the tie rod end, more than from front to back (or something like that). This takes some of the 'slack' out when you have the steering centered. I can't find where I read that, hopefully someone can chime in and confirm that I'm recalling this correctly.

[Gunnibronco]

Here is where I read the info on the tie rod/drag link positioning. It's my thread on the death wobble that started my never ending upgrade:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6734&hilit=rotate+drag+link

[Kinder]

If you go ruffstuff get the “problem solver” it helps prevent the roll over & dead feel in the middle of the steering.

I was just researching this. Is it called "the cure?". And how is this implemented. The website is a little nebulous.

I bought the steering setup indicated in my link. Half ton rod ends at the knuckles, but one ton rod ends on the drag link (I wasn't ready to ream the knuckles yet in case I want to do TRO in the future, and then I can go 1 ton TRO).

I ask because I'm having some wandering problems. But the whole steering system has been replaced in the last two years (except the column), including a Viperwolf rebuild of the box, tie rods and drag link as previously mentioned, and the steering shaft from WH. It was a little scary going down Eisenhower when I went up to Leadville for the 4th at around 65 mph.

Yes yes, The Cure! When’s the last time the alignment was checked? Toe-in can be done in the garage, caster can be corrected with C bushing swaps, but camber is harder as the shims that go behind the spindle seems to be hard to get.

[TOOLMAN]

So do I need two? One each for the top and bottom of the drag link?

[Gunnibronco]

So do I need two? One each for the top and bottom of the drag link?

I think it's just one where the drag link installs to the tie rod. I'd call and make sure, they have a couple to choose from too. They are always helpful when you call.

[landshark]

You just need one. It replaces the boot on the drag link at the tie rod intersection. It basically seats the drag link end and holds it in place so that it doesn’t flop around the boot as much. You will have to be diligent to keep that end greased. I ran one for a while on my red bronco. It helped but so does setting the links up correctly so the leverage doesn’t push or pull (flop) the drag link too much.