Ford 9" bearing replacement

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Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby akaFrankCastle » Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:43 pm

So, a few weeks ago while mounting and balancing my new to me tires, I noticed a pretty significant deposit of fluid and follow-on road grime in, on, and around my right rear wheel. I yanked off the brake drum, which came off entirely too easily (hence my planned brake job this weekend), suspecting a leaking brake cylinder as the culprit. Not so much. The cylinder was clean and dry, which the bearing retainer plate appeared to be weeping. So now I'm thinking I have a bad bearing on that side. Reinforcing this is a steady on and off vibration I get at highway speeds. Kind of like driving over those sleepy driver strips on the side of the road. rRAAWwr rRAAWwr rRAAWwr (Yeah, I know. Hard to describe in text.) The sound/vibration seems to be isolated to that corner as well.

So, I've been doing a bit of reading up in preparation for replacing the bearings. Seems simple enough. Yank all the brake components, remove the retainer plate, yank axle shaft, knock off bearing retainer and bearing, replace, reinstall. Sound about right? I read some scuttle about a press being required. Planning on locating one for use this week.

Big question is this. I have a factory limited slip in the rear. I have read about some people having issues with reinstalling the axles shafts and something or another about not getting things seated right due to the LS. Anyone have any input on that? Plan I am running with now is to yank the entire axle, put it on stands, gut, strip, paint, reinstall. So long as I don't change anything on the internals of the gears, I should be able to simply reinstall without worrying about all of that backlash and other gobbledy guk, right?

If all of that stuff will be required, I'll simply yank the shafts, replace the bearings, and reinstall. This is templated to be a half to one day job at the moment. Trying to cram a bunch of stuff in this weekend including disc brakes and hydroboost install.
Stroppe'd
1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.

The Terrible One
1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.

1973 Stroppe Baja project
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby Viperwolf1 » Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:09 pm

You'll need to cut the bearing retainer before you can get the old bearing off. New bearing comes with new retainer.

The limited slip could be a minor problem on the driver's side only if the side gear and clutch hub splines get out of alignment. Simple solution is to turn the passenger side axle (with yoke immobilized) to get the splines aligned.
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby akaFrankCastle » Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:29 pm

Thank ya Viper.

Zilla, been toying with the idea of picking up a press. You seem to have the north side covered with that crucial, if often under utilized piece of equipment. Might come in handy for us southern guys to have one nearby too. Guess I just found another reason to go to Harbor Freight.

Is yours bolted to the floor?
Stroppe'd
1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.

The Terrible One
1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.

1973 Stroppe Baja project
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby crawlercreations » Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:51 pm

I have a 20 ton press that is not bolted to the floor. It isn't quite as easy to move around but it gets the job done. I think Zilla's 12 ton would be perfect for pretty much anything you could need it for!
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby cobshane » Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:18 pm

A air hammer will work for getting those pesky retainers and bearings off
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby cobshane » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:40 am

Does anyone have clamshell puller. That would make short work of it as well.
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby akaFrankCastle » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:43 am

That does indeed look handy. Of course, for the price it should be very handy.
Stroppe'd
1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.

The Terrible One
1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.

1973 Stroppe Baja project
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby crawlercreations » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm

I have the differential bearing clamshell puller. 3 shells. It certainly wasn't cheap but it has paid for itself over and over again! They work VERY well!
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby cobshane » Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:07 pm

It is must have though if you do alot of diff work. $400 price tag is to much for me at this time. I dont do a whole of diff builds. I sure wish I did have it when I need it. Always borrowed a buddies.
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby Kinder » Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:23 am

Not the pro way, but just cut the retainer off w/an angle grinder. Don't go all the way to the axle, you just need to be close and use a little heat if needed. Knock it off with a nice sized chisel and hammer, same for the bearing. To reinstall I used inch plus steel tubing and drove it back on w/a bfh (think sledge hammer sized) and some wood supports under the axle end so I didn't mess up the studs. I can't recommend the HF press, Billie picked the small one up and it failed to move anything. Just remember to put the retainer plate back on before you drive the bearing and retainer ring on... don't ask.
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Re: Ford 9" bearing replacement

Postby akaFrankCastle » Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:30 pm

Made a quick stop off at Don's today. He's got a gigantor press sitting in his garage, fed by a compressor I think. Will be making a stop off there next weekend to take care of all my "pressing" needs. laughing2

In the middle of: front disc install, hydroboost install, rear drum replacement, and rear bearing replacement. So I've got some wheel studs and bearings to take care. Should be an eventful weekend.
Stroppe'd
1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.

The Terrible One
1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.

1973 Stroppe Baja project
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