Fuel delivery input please

[BNC04]

My fuel system is a mess, it works but I don’t like it much and am looking for your thoughts on the best and most economical way to address this so I don’t make a mistake.

92 5.0 running a carb. Mechanical pump blocked off, no room to install one says the PO,, Kind of looks like there is to me.
I have a fuel selector knob
Aux tank not hooked up
No toggle to switch between tank readings.
No working fuel gauge- I don’t know if either tank has a sender yet.

Current plumbing setup-
Fuel line running from main tank to the carb with an exterior fuel pump mounted outside and just in front of the rear tank. This is wired to a toggle switch on the dash, runs continuous when switched on. No return fuel line that I can see.

Options-

1- Run as stock through selector and install a mechanical pump.

2- Fix external switched FP to the ignition switch and a inertia switch.
Plumb aux tank to act as a backup and install transfer method from aux to main.

2-Save and install 23 gallon rear tank with internal pump and gauge and wire the pump and gauge up correctly- this could be a few months away at least.

I may go EFI in a year or two but not sure yet at this point.

Thanks
Brett

[Viperwolf1]

A '92 motor didn't have a mechanical fuel pump eccentric. Unless it was added when the swap was done that is going to be a major roadblock to using a mech pump. Mech pumps are very reliable though.

You could use both tanks in their original conf and move the electric pump near the manual valve. If you want to get fancy with it you could get an electric valve and mount it back where the pump is now. An inertia sw is a very good idea. A stock fuel sw is easy to find too. I might even have one for you.

I would take the aux tank out to clean it, check for holes, and checkout the sender before trying o use it. Small holes are easy to repair with Waterweld.

When you decide to go EFI get the large rear tank with the internal pump.

[Jesus_man]

I am trying to remember how I had my setup in my '74 with a carb. Pretty sure you don't need a return line with a carb. So I think you are ok there. Are you concerned with not being able to know what your fuel level is?

IIRC, you'll want a filter, then your electric pump as close to the tank as you can. Then run your fuel line as far away from any heat sources as you can, and maybe consider insulating them if you can find something cheap.

I had my switch hidden and turned it off every time I parked my bronco anywhere it could be stolen. That way, someone would only have what fuel was in the bowls before it'd die. Usually less than a minute.

In any case, you may have to drop your main tank and look at the sender and possibly replace that. Otherwise, keep an eye on your miles and make sure you don't go too far.

J.D.

PS - Listen to Viper. He's got the right knowledge.

[BNC04]

A '92 motor didn't have a mechanical fuel pump eccentric. Unless it was added when the swap was done that is going to be a major roadblock to using a mech pump. Mech pumps are very reliable though.

You could use both tanks in their original conf and move the electric pump near the manual valve. If you want to get fancy with it you could get an electric valve and mount it back where the pump is now. An inertia sw is a very good idea. A stock fuel sw is easy to find too. I might even have one for you.

I would take the aux tank out to clean it, check for holes, and checkout the sender before trying o use it. Small holes are easy to repair with Waterweld.

When you decide to go EFI get the large rear tank with the internal pump.

Thanks, A couple questions-

Could I install the pump between the manual valve and the engine or would I need a pump for each tank between the tank and the manual valve?

I'll be pulling and checking both tanks before I start to see what other surprises await me. I'm guessing no pump or sender in the rear. I'm getting an Aux tank from a member this weekend. Not sure what it comes with. The one in the truck now leaks from what i was told by the PO.

If you find a selector switch, let me know what you want for it.


Thanks again for your help !
Brett

[Jesus_man]

Brett, in an ideal situation, you want your pump as close to the tank it's pulling from as you can get it. But you need a filter upstream too. If you plan to run dual tanks, then you can either run two pumps (there are switches that could control both from one switch) or one pump as close to the selector valve as possible. If one pump, don't skimp. Get a good one.

My suggestion is to try and get by with as little expense as you can gand get a larger tank in the future and ditch the aux tank all-together.

Do you have a good reason for needing the Aux tank now? I know you are procuring one at the moment.

J.D.

[BNC04]

My suggestion is to try and get by with as little expense as you can gand get a larger tank in the future and ditch the aux tank all-together.

Do you have a good reason for needing the Aux tank now? I know you are procuring one at the moment.

J.D.

After pondering your guy's input I think I'm going this route. I don't see me taking this on long trips in the very near future and I can add a jerry can of fuel for those where I'll be extending things.

I think I'll ditch the aux tank and improve what I already have in place by incorporating a working fuel gauge and an inertia pump. That will get me by until my final plans make them selves known:).

PS, I have 2 filters in line with the fuel line in place now.

Brett

[Viperwolf1]

Thanks, A couple questions-

Could I install the pump between the manual valve and the engine or would I need a pump for each tank between the tank and the manual valve?

I'll be pulling and checking both tanks before I start to see what other surprises await me. I'm guessing no pump or sender in the rear. I'm getting an Aux tank from a member this weekend. Not sure what it comes with. The one in the truck now leaks from what i was told by the PO.

If you find a selector switch, let me know what you want for it.


Thanks again for your help !
Brett[/quote]

I think the single pump would be OK between the valve and carb if you keep it down low and close to the valve. Closer to the tanks would be better but you would need the electric valve to do that.

No pump in the rear tank but it should have a sender. Without the sender there would be a 2 1/2" hole in the tank. The senders are pretty durable but the screen filters on the end of the pickup deteriorate over time. I think Tom's has new filters. The o-ring seal can be found at a Ford dealer for about $1 each, C0AF-9276-A.

You can have the switch and bezel or you can trade me something for it if you really want to. I took it apart and cleaned it up inside so it works like new.

[BNC04]

Thanks Viper,, I'm going to just improve what I have and forego the aux tank all together for now.

I probably don't have anything worth trading,, yet:)

Brett