So I still haven't gotten around to swapping gas tanks. I have finally had a couple days off work, and done a little work on my Bronco. I have the old tank pulled out, and will attend to a couple maintenance items while its out (weld nuts to the bottom of the floor for my ammocan storage boxes, and new shackle bushings finally).

I have a new to me tank, that had a couple cracks where the rear seat bolts hit the top of the tank. I welded them up. I have also cut a hole for a sending unit that matches my new gauges. I welded a ring w/the 5 hole fuel sending unit pattern in it. I'll continue using the stock fuel sending unit as my pick up, but discontinue using it as a sending unit when I swap gauges. I had the blue paint sitting around, so I used it up.

I washed the tank out with water, then poured about 1/2 gallon of WD40 into the tank and made sure all the metal shavings were out.

I noticed the tank has a little rust along the bottom corner of one side. Should I worry about this? I'm thinking no.

I don't expect to get back to work on the Bronco for a week or so, so I'm looking for advice. I'm going to try to source a couple new sending unit orings. Anyone have a recommended source? Broncograveyard is the only place I found one, and I'd like to avoid using them. Especially for such a small order.

Looks like a bit of surface rust, I wouldn't worry about it unless its leaking. Maybe you can graft a wire brush on a stick and get some of it out.

I have a spare stock o ring for a factory sized sending unit, if that's the size you need it's yours.

Thanks, I'm looking for a stock oring. The one I pulled from my old tank has a cut in it, it might work, but I'd rather not try it.

I'm probably going to place a JBG order for a few orings. I'm going to get into my Aux tank soon too. I remembered, since my "new" tank is older, I'm going to need a vented gas cap. So I might be able to justify an order, just didn't want to order $3 and pay $12 shipping. Hopefully I can think of everything I might need for a while and get it on one order. I always seem to remember something else about 2 days after I place an order.

Another question.

Anyone use this skid plate on an earlier model truck?

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-102 ... -1977.html

My strap locations don't work due to my new exhaust location. My stock skid plate is bent, and I don't really like the "minimalist design", so I want to protect my tank better. This would solve both problems, and right now I'd rather buy something pre-made Realistically, I don't really have the time to fab one up myself.

Can anyone tell me how a 77 tank is different than the earlier tanks?

I can't find a picture of the 77. No one has them for sale, everything lists as 76 or earlier. Obviously the skid plate wouldn't allow the sending unit to be used, there is no hole. I don't mind modding it for my tank, but if they aren't the same shape/size then the 77 skid plate just won't work.

the 77 tank is unique to that year

it is plastic and held in place by the skid plate which is essentially a bowl shaped piece of light gauge steel

Are they different shaped enough that the 77 skid plate wouldn't fit the 76 or earlier tanks?

Don't they make a coating to put inside a tank to seal them up? Might be something that would be good for what you've got. Get as much out as you can, and then coat it? Maybe even use vinegar or the like to eat what's there?

POR 15 makes a fuel tank restoration kit that cleans, converts rust, and seals the tank. About $85. That is my plan right now.

But.......................................

I just found out about a Bronco project that has stalled out, and was offered to me for a good price. I haven't seen it, but it is EFI (not sure what kind-he called it a 5.0), full width D44 w/RCV axles & wristed radius arms, 9" 35 spline, Atlas 4:1, 4 linked rear end. Supposidly, only needs shocks, and driveshafts.

I'm going to go see it, maybe tonight. I might sell my truck. I can't believe I'm saying that, but it would make sense.

Wow, those are some serious upgrades. If the price is right and it is put together right it sounds like a great rig.

Sounds like a great opportunity. I'm just not a fan of wristed arms. Keep us posted!

I went to look at it last night. There is some serious money & great parts under that truck, but I don't think its the truck for me. It has been built & used as a rock crawler, some body damage, but that is not my concern. The guy is building it up right now, with 39"s in mind. My problem with it is, that it really isn't suitable for a "daily driver". If I had a truck/tow vehicle and wanted a dedicated crawler, I'd jump on it. But I still run mine around town, and need it to haul dogs, camp, hunt, etc. Problem areas: no hard top or doors, soft top & bikini top only, fuel cell in the bed, wristed arms & heim joint steering (not really street legal, but probably would never be a problem), 5.13's w/a built C4- even with 37's = 3000 rpm on the highway. It needs the 4 link finished (or go back to leaf springs), exhaust, & some brake work. I don't really like the wristed arms and would go back to stock arms, or long arms, but it has 78 F150 axles, so the best arms, Clint's aren't an option.

There are only two ways it could work for me. One would be to take the best parts off, put them on my truck, and rebuild the 66 with my parts, and sell it. Or find someone who wants the project, take the parts I want, and sell the truck, which would make a great starting point for a crawler project.

I have been trying to make the numbers work out since I saw it last night, even woke up at 4:15 thinking about it.

Exciting and stressful at the same time...

I'll be "negotiating" with the owner of the truck to cherry pick the best parts, and replace them with my stock parts. We'll see how that goes. I'm hoping to do that in the next couple days.

Today, I placed my Summit order for the POR15 tank restoration kit. I"ll post up as I treat & seal my tank, since others might be interested in the results, which I've read are good.

I also ordered a Carter LP pump, to replace my 2+ year old not-so-cheapo LP pump. I wish I had thought of the Carter pumps at the time of my EFI upgrade, but I think I just followed someone's parts list and didn't really think it through. I also ordered 2 Russell fuel filters, and a new sending unit for my Aux tank, so it will work with my new gauges (when I get around to finishing my new dashboard).

Does anyone know if this cap is vented? Its Gates #31702.

I got if from JBG, they said it was vented, but I want to make sure. Its the same as the caps I have, they are old and I don't mind replacing them. But if this cap isn't vented, I don't think it will work with my new tank.

If it is a Gates 31702, it says that it is a pressure vaccuum gas cap. Which I found is defined as follows:

The fuel cap contains an integral pressure and vacuum relief valve. The vacuum valve acts to allow air into the fuel tank to replace the fuel as it is used, while preventing vapors from escaping the tank through the atmosphere. The vacuum relief valve opens after a vacuum of -0.5 psi (3.45 kPa). The pressure valve acts as a backup pressure relief valve in the event the normal venting system is overcome by excessive generation of internal pressure or restriction of the normal venting system. The pressure relief range is 1.6-2.1 psi (11.0-14.5 kPa). Fill cap damage or contamination that stops the pressure vacuum valve from working may result in deformation of the fuel tank.

I am not an expert but I ended up just buying a vented fuel cap from the parts store to be sure. For $11 this was a locking cap that was definitly vented.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... rd=gas+cap

Good luck.

Thanks for that info, sounds like it SHOULD work, fingers crossed. I looked at the WH site, and it specifically lists the 71-76 cap as vented. The pic looks just like the one I got from JBG.

I got my Summit Racing order today as well. The metal prep bottle in the POR15 kit was damaged and leaking, so I'm waiting for a new bottle to ship.

I should be able to get a new tank hanger strap built, and the Carter pump & new filter mounted before I seal the tank. My house remodel is going full steam ahead, and most my time is spent working on it. But I need to get my Bronco back running soon. Too much to do.

I think I just wasted $85, a week waiting for the stuff, and a day "restoring" the tank. I should have just bought a new tank, or maybe just go with a large cap rear tank w/EFI pump, and scrap all the LP, HP, accumulator stuff. I need to make a decision and place an order.

I followed the directions exactly. Cleaned & prepped the tank just as directed. Here is what it looked like just before the final application of the POR sealant:
P1010896.JPG
P1010897.JPG

After I put the sealant in, and meticulously drained it back out/rolled the tank around so there was an even coat everywhere. It started doing this on one end of the tank, looks like fisheyes to me where the sealant didn't adhere to the metal.

P1010901.JPG
P1010902.JPG

Everywhere else it looks like this:
P1010900.JPG

I'd be tempted to email those to POR's customer support and see what they have to say.

Looks it did not did get cleaned enough right there. Yes, i'd call but also would lean towards a new tank since that could start flaking off and causing issues down the road.

I agree with both of you. I've sent a message to POR, we'll see what happens from their end.

I don't think its adhered to the tank, and I'd expect it to fail. I don't want to take that risk, so I think I'm going to start seriously thinking about a 23 gallon tank with the internal EFI pump. I really didn't want to loose the extra clearance, I'm trying to avoid a body lift. But they are made for a modern 5 hole sending unit, so I can put one in that matches my new fuel gauge without extra work. Plus I can ditch the external pumps and accumulator.

I have the original tank from mine if you want it. Just let me know and it's yours.

Thanks for the offer. I'll consider that option. Is there any rust or any other known problems? Could you UPS it to me? I need to make a decision today, probably, so I can get my truck back up and running.

Now that its dried out, the fisheyes look more like a silver alligator skin. I'll take a pic and post it up after work.

POR wrote me back and said that fisheyes indicate the tank was not clean or was still wet when I applied the sealant. I followed their cleaning directions very closely. And if anything, that side of the tank got "special" attention. It was the side with the rust. It is also a side that had no openings in it, so when the tank was sitting w/solution in it, many times that side was "down". I also used a heat gun, and diligently dried the tank. It was very hot to the touch and I'm sure it was dry.

I think the WD40 I used when I cleaned the metal shavings from my tank didn't get cleaned off. WD40 is a "4 letter word" in a bodyshop, because of its ability to cause fisheyes. I never would have used it if I thought I was going to try to prep & seal the tank. I read to use it to dissipate any water from the tank after rinsing the tank with water. I never even looked for rust until after I was done adding the sending unit opening and cleaning the metal shavings out. Oops.

As far as I can tell, there are not any issues with the tank. I was not having any issues with it--just pulled it for the 23 gallon tank. I am not sure if it would need a new sending unit or not because my gas guage was not working (it still isn't working with the new tank and sending unit, so it could be another issue.)

I could UPS to you if you decide today that you want it. I will be heading out of town tomorrow morning till Friday afternoon. Shoot me a PM with your info and I can give you a call if you want it.

Thanks. Im going to think about this for a day or two and decide if I want to stay with a stock tank or upgrade to a larger tank. Ill get back with you when I decide.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

I've sent several communications back and forth with POR, and they concluded that I did not allow the tank long enough to dry completely, before adding the sealer. I followed their instructions carefully, and still ended up with unsatisfactory results.

Their instructions state that the tank must be completely dry before application of the sealer. Specifically, the tank should be forced dry with a heat gun "promptly" after rinsing, and resealed "soon" after to prevent any flash rust. When I told the POR rep that I sealed the tank about 1 hour after rinsing it. He said I should have waited "a lot longer" before adding the sealer. And that he guarantees there was still moisture in the tank. I told him that the instructions are misleading and should be more specific about how much time to allow the tank to dry. I dried the tank longer than I felt necessary, and saw absolutely no signs of moisture. The tank was too hot to pick up from the heat gun, and had to cool off before I could handle it. Even after cooling, there was no sign of moisture.

They offered to ship me a new kit with free shipping (not really a deal, since Summit ships for free too), and I could restrip and reapply their product. The application took most of the day yesterday, and if I had to strip the POR out, that would just add to the lost time & labor.

Honestly, even if they had offered me a free kit, I probably wouldn't take the time to redo this. The labor involved isn't justified on a tank you can buy new. If it was an unreplaceable/rare tank I might try it again. If I hadn't taken the time to add a new sending unit mount & fix a couple leaks in this tank, I wouldn't have considered using this kit at all.

I'm more than a little disappointed in the product & instructions. Their customer service was responsive, but only confirmed that despite following their instructions their product failed to work as advertised.