I sold the Black rims that came with my truck to get polished. I had a horrible time getting the rims off - many studs were stripped and even spun making it a nightmare to get the rims off. Cortez had to use a grinder and cut the stem off right by the rim. Surprisingly - he did not hurt the rim - he was like a surgeon

I am ready to take the painting rims/tires off and install my new rims and tires.

I need all new wheel studs. My question is Where do I get these and what to I ask for?

I do not want the same problem when changing tires in the future - especially on the trail.

My truck is standard 5 on 5.5 with a Dana 44 up front and a Currie Rear End.

I just went through that. I'd take the rotor / hub and old studs with you to the auto part store and find some that will hold better. Last time we were there it was amazing how many different style/sizes of studs they had. I even saw a picture of Zilla!

Let me know if you want the whole story.

How did you take off the hub/rotor to access the studs?

1. Wheel off
3. Calipers off
3. Warn hub off
4. Piece of cardboard to lay all the hub parts you take off in order
* also note which side of the part came out/goes in first*
** I had to search for the order after my son moved the pieces around**
5. Only the spindle is out of the hub/rotor
6. slide hub/rotor off

This was only the front of my truck, the rear has drums and I didn't need to do them.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more detail/

Shawn "Gregg"

SWEET! Thanks Gregg!

I was in a little bit of a hurry in the last post.
The hub assembly takes a little time and some different tools like the 4 prong hub socket (I rented the hub socket kit at Adv Auto $71 refundable), a C pin taker outer. Pay attention on the 2nd spindle nut. It has a pin that needs to face out so the washer can fit snug up to it. If its not matched up the washer won't be flush.
Give me a call if you get stuck.

BTW_ I have stock hubs. If you have fancy shiney premium chrome hubs, they may be slightly different...

Advanced Auto parts
Rear wheel studs: part number 98169.1
Front wheel studs: part number 98224.1

Looking at 1.99 each and don't expect to come out of the store with them on the same day.

Show up to BWB on the 16th and I'll save you 20 bucks. I have 10x 98169.1's on the shelf, brand new, from an incorrect order through AAP.

Chad If you need help getting this apart give me a shout and i'll come by and lend a hand. I have the hub wrench(a toll everyone needs).

might try performace wheel and tire on sanata fe and dartmath if you have not found them already

The attached manual may help. I have the spanner tool as well if you need it.

I'll let Chad post up about what we found today. Very umm how would you say?....redneck.

Oh and his Bronco looks amazing. Has done a great job so far. Cant wait to see it finished.

ZOSO - Thanks a ton for your help yesterday.

Rob walked me through removing the Front Hub. Front wheel studs looked great. I removed the passenger side and wheel studs looked great. Got the hubs installed with only one phone call to Rob lol.

The Rear is a different story. Rob walked me through removing the rear. After getting the rear out, we quickly realized why the rear wheel studs were not seated - there were no wheel studs used, they were bolts. 3 of the 5 bolts were spinning freely.

In the pic you can see the bolts vs. wheel studs. The bottom bolt is the bolt Cortez cut off last fall with a ginder to get the lug nut off to remove the rim and tire. It is surprising that we got the rear rims and tires off the truck. Scary to think how unsafe. Could have been worse to be doing it on the freeway or on the trail.

Rob recommended that I remove the rear axels and take them to a machine shop to have the holes redrilled and new wheel studs pressed.

Anyone know a good machine shop?

holy....who in the heck...lugs are so cheap...WTF...

Gotta love them POs. I notice you have a nut missing from your backing plate, one of the ones that holds it on to the axle tube. Do my eyes deceive me?

Another good use for a Bolt. We had a customer come in stating steering is loose and please advise. This is what we found.

Good eye Punisher - I removed the 4 nuts to pull the axel. The Passenger side axle pulled out easy peasy but the Drivers side is stuck - only moves in and out about a 1/4". I was on the ground with feet on the springs pulling on it and cannot get it out. Rob recommended a Slide hammer but I do not have one. Any other ideas on how to get it out?

Wow. I'm always amazed at how willing people are to stupidly put their safety at risk. Darwinian evolution at it's finest.

We have these pads at the shop made for soaking up all of the oil. I call them "puppy pads" because they remind me of them. they are like a sponge and work well but I still want to get some floor dry to soak it out of the concrete. A drain pan works too but its not as messy. :)

Now ya tell me to use a drain pan lol

I will pick up some floor dry.

I will come get your puller. Thanks a ton Zilla!

There are some silver linings to the story - I figured out that it has a rear locker and 31 Spline Axles!

Turn your brake drum backward and install some nuts on your "lug studs" loosely. Use the drum as the hammer. Just grab the drum and yank into the loose lug nuts until the axles pops out. Works every time.

Some of the story behind this. This is a rear disc swap on there also. But the catch for that is it was made for a car. Has a 5x4.5 and 5x4.75 bolt patterns. So the axles and rotors were redrilled for the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. And it wasn't done properly with atleast wheel studs.

As for pulling the rear axle bolt on a chain to the studs. leave a little slack and give it a good hard pull. the snap of the chain should pop it loose.

Alright - got home with Dan's killer Axel Puller / Slide Hammer. Got it hooked up and pulled that thing 50 times. Heavy tool and was really getting on it, trying to free the axle. Even pushed the axle back in, then slid the hammer. No futher movement than the above 1/4" and still no closer to getting it pulled out.

The Passenger slide slip out without even pulling on it so not sure WTH is up. Any ideas?

I hope that wheel bearing isnt seized and welded itself to the housing.

Heat up the axle housing around where the axle bearing is and pound on it. Should help. Probably won't take a lot of heat but that will be your best bet at this point.