For those of you guys running the Chevy spindles and calipers.
Did you experience what felt like excessive drag in the wheels and rotors after the install? I used all new parts in this install and now the rotors feel a bit like there is too much friction without load. The wheel will spin by hand when on jack stands, but I have about 1-2" of peddle now before things start to slow down. Took it out for about a half mile test drive and the rotors were hot to the touch. Not so much that I could feel it radiating, but hot enough I couldn't keep my finger on them longer than 2 seconds or so.

Thoughts?

Maybe I'm just freaking out because I've been running drums, and bad ones at that, for so long.

What did you do with your master cylinder when you converted? If you re-used your old drum MC it will need the check valve removed so the brakes don't drag. Drums require a bleed-back valve so they don't just return right away. It is what allows you to pump up the brakes when they are drums.

Didn't you say that you were doing HB with this too? If you aren't driving it daily, that HB on there then come over and drive mine so you can see if there is a difference.

Same master cylinder. No mods to it. Where might said check valve be located?

HB is on hold at the moment. Postponed due to life. Probably try to get it installed next week, after the BWB. Bronco parked on the side of the street and not being driven has been driving me crazy so I was trying to get it back on the road.

Look about right?

I believe that is the one,,
Here is a thread on it from classic that explains it well.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... r+cylinder

Some seem to need to have this done, Some don't. Sounds like you in the "does" camp.

Brett

Yep, my money is on the bleed back valve. Really easy to pull. Looks like it is covered in the thread link above!

I did that conversion last Fall. Same thing happened to me. And then driving around, typically getting off the highway on off-ramps, I would get the shakes pretty hard core, and the steering wheel felt like it was going to shake right out of my hands. Pretty scary, actually.

It all just magically went away before I decided to look at it again. Still kind of scary though. I had a more knowledgeable guy look at it and he says it looks fine.

Like we were talking at the breakfast it would be the residual valve. Drums brakes require a constant line pressure of 10psi. That is to keep the springs from colapsing the wheel cylinders. On a disc set-up it is not required. The only issue you may have is the fluid requirement for the calipers. They require more volume. So to do it properly would require a new master cylinder. If it feels like you get a "lag" from your brakes then you may want to try adding a residual valve of 2psi.

Just picked up a reman 78 Bronco MC tonight. Bronco is parked until the hydroboost goes in or until breakfast this Saturday, whichever comes first.

If you do find that the stock 78-79 bronco brakes aren't good enough find yourself a pair of calipers off a 77t-bird. They are a direct bolt on but have a bigger piston. But then once again you'll need more volume. Thats where a f350 master cylinder comes into play. I've been through all this on my 79 already.

Happen to know what year F-350?

I used a 79 2wd one on my bronco. You will have to do some research and find one that will bolt up with the correct pattern. Then if you do that and keep the rear drums run f350 wheel cylinders on the drums. They should fit if you have the big bearing rear with the 11in brakes.