thinking I am going to need some kind of assist to help my missus if'n she needs to or wants to drive the Bronc.

Can somebody esplain to me the pros cons of each system?
cost is a factor but I think this might just be the Bronco that I finally keep and want to see about using what is the best available setup.

lemme have it

I think we will have a ton of people with the same question. I have done tons of research and know that I am going Hydroboost. I am likely doing the same system as Cortez - Ford Cobra Hydroboost from a 1995-1999 (maybe more years) Mustang. Parts are easy to come by and the upgrade is a major improvement.

We may be able to talk Cortez into doing a group build. The part is around $125.00 but the cables are as much as the Booster. We may be able to save some $ as a group on the cables.

Hydroboost is a well covered topic on classicbroncos

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=172032
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=131746
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=168699

And many many more

I currently have a vac booster with 4 wheel drums and power steering. I'm seriously considering going to a hydroboost myself. Hydroboost plumbs in line with the power steering to provide hydraulic assist to your brakes, in my case replacing the vacuum booster.

Is that $125 new? or Junk yard?
do you know the parts break down of what you need?
IE: master cylinder,steering pump etc

The Cobra Booster on eBay is $125 and the hoses are approx. the same. Lots of people go Astro Vans because of availability and price. Another Astro advantage is the mounting plates are available on eBay as well. However, Cobras usually do not require the mounting plate and therefore less in the long run. The part lists are available on CB - they are very in-depth.

after some research (thanks for the links) I think I might just go the astro route.
looked at the Aurora pull n pay and they have about 8 astros listed on the lot.

price sheet shows I should be able to get everything, minus the hoses, for about 50-60 clams.
and that is if I find a cleanmaster cylinder and reservoir.
if nothing to my lliking I can get set up new from auto zone for about another $65 for reservoir and M cyl.

I had no it could be this cheap. Wild horses quoted me to be about $1000 with everything. Thats a chunk o dough.

yes it is plug and play with no headaches.

this is lots cheaper.
and I havent been to a junk yard in years!

might head down there tomorrow after work since I will be getting off a little early.

thanks again guys

i've done the astro van style on mine , if you'd like to see it i'm in centennial off parker and orchard . it'll give you some s of what to expect . mike

777 I have few ?? for ya.

did you mount yours straight off the firewall or use an angle bracket?
Did you rotate it 90 degrees to clear throttle linkage and stuff?
If so how did you run the master cylinder?

I am going to build a new back plate to mount straight to firewall but clockwise 90 degrees then use the 4 holes already there for mounting and make an A dapter plate to return the master cylinder to level.

unless I am missing something this is my plan.

do tell how yours is set up or When are you home to check yours out?

Bnut

The key is that dang 77 angle bracket.

they can run as much as the whole setup (150-200)if you can find them.

I may just run the astro mc and I found a reservoir from a s-10 blazer that i liked better than the astro style. one big one vs the double style of the astro. it might just be slightly shorter too.
and it should clear the hood since it parallels the engine. spark plug changing might be affected though.

I dunno?
gonna call the Hut and see if she has any floating around

What year Astro Van are we talking here?

copied from CB site member
so dont shoot me if one is wrong but from my findings yesterday they seem to be on par.
My findings are that the late models had a downturned mastercylinder that wouldnt fit,but most folks are using either corvette or camaro MCs that are cast iron with build in reservoir, like the factory bronco ones.

those can be had for about $50 new from advance auto with no core charge.

I bought the used astro one for 20 from UPAP and figured I would rebuild but for brand new w/lifetime warranty 50 aint so bad and no question if it will work correctly.

The UPAP in Aurora had a handfull of them left.
you need a 15mm deep socket with a few extensions and 12or13 and 15 to remove the master cylinder if you dont want that.
I cut the factory lines so I could keep the fitting and more easliy match up the hose ends.

Also I will be dropping my stuff off tomorrow at Pirtek (arapahoe and Jordan) to get made up and he said no problem, should be uner $150 for all new hoses.

I will have him write a detailed description of what he does so incase anybody else wants to have theirs made then he could whip them up easy.


Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1990 – 1993
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: ½”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)

Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1994 – 1995
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)

Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1996 – 2000
Description: angled mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)

Vehicle: Ford LTD 1984
Description: angled mounting plate built into the booster studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 1/4
Pedal rod length: 4 5/8” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”

Vehicle: Chevy Suburban 1984
Description: Flat mounting plate with Bolts for mounting to firewall and 2 studs.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 1/2”

i used a 76-77 angle bracket because i have a efi 351 lightning motor in the truck . i also used a corvette disc / disc acount of 3 wheel discs . the mount holes from the astro van lined up with the bracket . i'll try to download pics next

777 very nice.
I had a little trouble locating a cheap bracket(they dont exist) so I have a plan to run the booster upside down, then the MC will bolt up with no issues.

Does anyone see a reason this wont work?
It appears to basically be a hydraulic pump and in my most unexpert opinion should function at any angle or position.

My hoses are getting made up as we speak and will be available for pickup this afternoon.

For mounting I plan to remove the mounting plate that is existing on the booster and make a new one to match the existing holes on the firewall and reuse those bolts.
we'll see how that works.

more to come, and hopefully with pictures

Tech articles

http://www.silverfellatio.com/?page_id=27
http://classicbroncos.com/hydroboost.shtml
http://classicbroncos.com/hydroboost_cobra.shtml

or you could search craigslist in Colorado Springs...........

There was a guy named Kevin that used to sell astrovan h-boost set-ups including the firewall bracket and hardware

kevin is in the spring but comes up to parker to visit his parents make delivery easier

Do you have Kevin's Information - I am very interested.

This is a writeup that I did on another site, not CB.com because of it's intense coverage, but I did this the day after I installed HB on mine almost 4 years ago....

Car & Misc. Parts Needed:

Astro Van Hydro-Boost Unit, 90-94 (HB)
Astro Van Master Cylinder, same years (MC)
Astro Van High Pressure Supply Hose (from PS pump)
Astro Van High Pressure HB to PS Box Hose
Astro Van Steel Lines from MC to Proportioning Valve (PV)
Astro Van Proportioning Valve (optional)
Bronco High Pressure Power Steering Hose
Stainless Steel Brake Lines, 50" (or close - 2 different sizes needed)
2-4 feet of 3/8" Power Steering Hose
Bronco MC Push Rod
3/8" Brass "T" Connection
5-10 hose clamps
3/8-16 or 3/8-24 thread by 1.5" coupler nut

*NOTE: I did not reuse the AV MC. I used it as a core and took it back for a remanufactured unit. The HB unit should still be in good shape unless your donor vehicle was damaged in the front end.

Dismantle, Prep & Installation:

You are going to need to have new high pressure hoses made up to adapt the Chevy parts to the Ford parts. Take the three high pressure hoses to a local hydraulic fitting shop and have them make you two new ones. You will need to match them up as follows. The PS pump end off the Bronco hose will attach to the single valve inlet on the HB unit (this is the port on the same side as the gold fluid reservoir is on). This is the supply line to the HB unit. The other end of the Bronco hose, the PS box end, will attach to the hose from the opposite side of the HB unit (the side with the brass nozzle/hose attachment). These are two different fittings that are on the HB unit, so do not get them mixed up or it will not work correctly. The last port on the HB unit (the brass nozzle/hose attachment) is a low pressure return line that will go back to the PS pump.

Remove the original MC, steel lines to PV, PV & front steel line to termination block on the frame. You must replace all steel lines from the PV to the MC, and I replaced the front steel line from the PV to the front termination block on the frame. This might also be a good time to replace your front brake line from the termination block to the axle.

Once all things are removed and out of the way, you will see that the original MC push rod is longer than the HB push rod. Both of these should be 3/8" rods. Mine had a difference of 1 1/4" in length. Here you will need to cut the HB push rod & the EB MC rod. I cut the HB rod as close to the pedal attachment as possible. The EB MC rod was cut about 1.5" down from the pedal attachment. I threaded both with 3/8-16 threads, but for a finer adjustment, I would recommend 3/8-24. Once you have the two push rods threaded and are able to connect them together, set your HB unit aside until ready for installation.

For this installation, the HB unit will have to be flipped upside down. On the AV, the fluid reservoir is on the passenger side of the unit and here we will be installing it exactly 180 degrees opposite with that reservoir on the driver side. Measure the base of the plunger housing (right up next to the mounting plate) on the HB unit and the original MC hole in the firewall. The firewall hole will need to be opened up to fit the HB unit. I used air & a grinding stone to open it up, which took me about 10 minutes of grinding & checking progress. At this time, knock the pressed in bolts out of the HB mounting plate, and with some card stock thickness paper, make a template of the mounting plate. Try and get this as accurate as possible to get the best possible fit. Once you have your template made, measure it against the fire wall. The HB mounting plate will overlap the dust boot on the steering column. Mark the overlap on your template and cut it out. Take this back to the HB unit and mark it and cut the mounting plate to give yourself clearance. You will lose one mounting bolt, but that is ok, you WILL NOT be putting the pressure on this unit you would be on a stock MC. Once you have the HB unit cut to clear the dust boot, put it up to the firewall & mark where to drill your holes for the bolts. Check this with your template as well to be sure. You will end up drilling three holes through the pedal assembly bracket, so this just gives you added strength. You will have to notice that there is a body/firewall seam running vertical that the HB unit will not fit over or beside. Here is where I had to do some thinking because I am running an EFI set up. I took and put 2 washers under the HB mounting bracket on that side only to give me clearance of my EFI plenum. You can notch the seam or trim the HB mounting plate, the option is yours, but I put washers under mine to clear the plenum. I then mounted the HB unit up, bolted it down and it gave me perfect clearance.

When you attach your hoses, give yourself enough clearance for the valve cover and the steering shaft. The hardest of the 3 hoses will go to the PS box. The brass fitting on the HB unit will be a return line to the PS pump. When running this line, you will have to use the brass T fitting to get both the PS box & HB return lines to converge. Use the 3/8 hose and cut a 5-6 hose coming off the return line on the back of the PS pump and put the �T� fitting in. This fitting should have the top of the T coming from the PS box & strait into the pump with the return from the HB unit coming in perpendicular to this. If you are running a fluid cooler/radiator, run your PS box to the cooler then out of the cooler and into the T fitting. Your last hose will be the supply line from the pump into the HB unit. If you have these hoses made as I did, you should have roughly 8-12� of flexible rubber or braided hose between the end fittings.

This is an "option" you can do, although I didn't do it. You can swap out the old PV for the AV unit. Again, I didn't do it, but I did use some of the steel line fittings. Temporarily attach the new MC to the HB unit. Cut the fittings off of the old steel lines and save the MC fittings. Cut one flair off the new lines and replace one of the new fittings with the fitting for the AV MC and re-flair the line. You will now need to bend the new steel lines (with the AV MC fittings) down to the PV. Be sure to put a couple of coils into the lines for possible flexing. Attach the brake lines to the PV. You now want to bench bleed the new MC. Once you have it bled, mount it to the HB unit and attach the steel brake lines.

Attach the coupling nut to the HB push rod and EB push rod. Hook the brake up just like it originally was. There is enough play in the HB unit to give you the slight angle that is required to make the connection. Bleed the lines out the same way you would normally with manual brakes. Make sure to get all the air out of those lines.

Once everything is attached and the lines are bled, top off your PS pump to make sure the fluid level is good then jack the front end of the vehicle up high enough to turn the tires. Start the engine, let it cycle a few times, turn the wheels lock to lock 2-3 times and turn the engine off. Check the PS fluid level again, top it off if need be, tighten any hoses if you see leaks and start the engine again. Turn lock to lock about 10 times and press the brake 4-5 times to make sure the air bubbles are out of the lines. Once you have this done, put it back down on the ground and take it for a test drive.

WARNING: If you have never driven an EB with power brakes, please go gently on them at first. I have a disc/disc set up and pretty much piled myself up on the steering wheel when I took it out the first time after doing this.

Costs Associated:

Astro Van HB unit, MC, PV, Hoses & steel lines - $23 (Junkyard)
Rebuilt MC - $50.00 (Checker Auto Parts)
Steel Lines - $9.00 (Checker)
New Hydraulic Hoses - $111.00 (Hydraulic Hose Fitting Company)
Hose Clamps - $3.00 (Checkers)
3/8 Hydraulic Hose - $2.00 (Checkers)
Brass T Connection - $2.00 (Checkers)
Coupler Nut - $2.00 (Ace Hardware)
------------------------------------------------------------
Total Cost - $202


I can dig around for pictures of it if you want me to and if you have questions, I will be more than happy to answer any that I can.

UPDATE:

So instead of fabing a bracket/mounting plate I broke down and bought a 76-77 EB booster bracket from Dana and Melissa at The Hut.
Thanks again to them, this one was " kinda ugly" their words, and they gave me a good price. It was releived on the lower side to fit around a 351.

No biggie, a grinder cleaned it up along with some paint and viola, bracket was done.

Bolted up, the HB linkage was directly in line with the factory conection point on the booster bracket.
Cut the rod, stacked on top at the right length and welded both sides.
the hole in the HB was larger than the Bronco bracket so I rounded the hex off of my 1/4-20 nut and threaded it all the way up making a perfect fit bushing.

Warning! Make sure you have everything mounted before you have hoses made up.

I originally was going to mount the booster upside down and had my hoses made accordingly. then I got the bracket and it sits angled and one hose is too long and the end 90 degree fitting needs to be rotated. I guess better than too short, but I bought that hose and fitting and now it was extra. oh well.

so it is mounted and the new astro booster fits just fine.
dont pay for the used junk yard MC like I did. Auto zone charges exactly the same for a new as a reman, and there is no core charge. who knew.now we all do.

so today i will get my hose cut and refit with a new end and make up my hard lines and if all goes well tonight,I will have it all together ready to fill and bleed.
I have some pics and will take more for those considering this build.

I know its nice to have multiple examples/ideas to work from.

total cost so far
$50 HB and MC (just 30 for HB)
$48 for new Astro MC
$85 for EB booster bracket
$130 for all lines and fittings

total is at $313
More than some but the bracket made life quite a bit easier,
and my stupidity cost me $20 on the MC and about $20 on hoses that I screwed up.

so this could be easily done under $300 and quite possibly under $200 if you have the fab time/skills and or a booster bracket already.
for me the $85 spent was well worth the time saved making the HB bolt in straight.
I actually am liking the angle mount, better access to spark plugs and stuff.

Brian

I did mine with the Cobra Mustang hydro because it bolts right to the firewall with out any bracket...thereby saving $125 for the the bracket that I spent on hoses. All - in I spent about $250 to $275...and picked up the junkyard boost off the internet...reckon it's cheaper if you can find one in the junkyard first hand. It will lock-up 35's on pavement...it was a huge upgrade. On the hoses I just went to Parker Hydraulics and took my booster and PS pump and had them make the hoses for me. There's a Parker store near my office in Louisville and another down by the Bass Pro Shop in Denver...I'm sure there are more that are further south too.

I think I am going the Cobra route - that was such a bad-a car that the brakes have to be world class. It is sad that a Cobra has to die for my Bronco - used to be my dream car until my dream car became a dream Bronco. I am working on a parted out Cobra on Denver CL right now. They want $200 with the stock hoses and Master Cylinder but trying to get them down closer to what Cortez paid.

The astro HB will clear the hood, without a body lift or anything if you do a straight mount instead of using the booster bracket. It also doesn't have any ill effects from the exhaust manifold. The most inconvenient thing with the AV HB is the fact that you have to grind out the hole going through the firewall & the brake mounting bracket inside the cab. Other than that, I did my installation without help or a walk through in less than a day, start to finish.

So what are you saying Entourage?
You think there is no badassery to an Astro?
pshh. all wheel drive, large capacity for all your friends and gear.
Whateva!
There were people ing over them in the showroom when they were new.
Ok maybe not ing but somebody sure bought the heck out of them.

In all seriousness I checked for hood clearance and I have maybe a 1/2-1" clearance on mine. I thought it would hit too, but it doesnt.

didnt get to work on it last night as i got home late but hopefully have it all buttoned up tonight. Can't wait to get it out and try it.

The Astro Van was and always will be the Cadillac of Minivans

Rox, I got mine to fit on the angle bracket by honing out the holes on the bracket. then mounting a bit lower. I also had to flip the booster 180 but just fits

Rox, I should have read closer, you were talking about the MC?? Its late, the rest mounted just like mine did

HOLY FREAKIN HYDROBOOST!!!!

Just took the Bronco for a drive and WOW.

other than the squeeling power steering pump at midnight, it is unreal how well it stops.
granted I went from manual 4 wheel drums that havent been bled in 25 years to front disks with fresh fluid and hydroboost. pedal feel is modern to say the least.

I do believe I will need the proportioning valve though. the rears lock up really easy.

Just wow.
now I need to go through everything and verify cotter pins are where they belong and everything is torqued down from the lift and I can take it for a real drive.

just had to tell everyone

Brian