I'm glad that my experience was just a fluke. Their stuff is great quality & the price seems right. I'm interested in getting a front diff cover in the future, and I know I'll go back to Ruffstuff. Sometimes *stuff* happens, just bad luck I guess.

And the build continues.

Details, details, details...............................

Maybe I should have installed the long arms on the old axles, first, then moved on to the f/w swap. It would have broken the job into 2 smaller projects, instead of one, huge one.

Today, I assembled and installed the steering linkage & trackbar. I fine tuned the toe-in to just under 1/4". Everything looks good. A co-worker stopped by the shop while I was working & said "damn, that steering looks beefy". Sorry I didn't seem to take any pics of the finished steering yet. It looks a lot like the pic above, only blacker.

I thought I had the steering centered when I bolted it down, but at the end of the day, I could see I had missed. I'll have to take some time & re-center the steering wheel after its mobile.

Bump steer? I read to jump up & down on the bumper & watch the steering wheel. I could get the steering wheel to move, but it was only when I was really bouncing. The truck has no shocks now, so maybe it will be ok. I think the steering wheel was still when the truck was moving in the normal range of road driving.

After looking at the angles, I don't think the stock pitman arm will solve anything. In fact, I wonder if the draglink would be too close to the front frame crossmember if it was any higher. I had to remove the steering stabilizer bracket from the frame to clear the draglink. Now I'll have to figure a new mounting system.

Then I moved to the rear end. I attached the e-brake cables, cleaned up the drums, and *hopefully* put them together for the last time. I noticed that the soft brakeline & breather hose, now line up with the bumpstop. I flipped the brakeline 180* on the axle. I was afraid that if it hit the stop, it would fold & rip the line. After the line was flipped, there wasn't much slack, so I pulled the soft line off the frame bracket & rebent the hard line. I'm not entirely happy with this routing now either. I'm afraid that it'll snag, the way it is hanging "down" off the axle. I may have to build new/adjust hardlines on the axle to move the block further to the center of the axle. Then find a way to bolt it down.
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I measured & cut the inner wheel well to accept the new upper shock mount. Then I installed & welded, the one rear shock mount I have. In all the chaos last week I forgot to order a new mount.
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I also finished bolting & welding the radius arm frame brackets. I also flipped the large 1" bolt through the heim, so the head of the bolt was inboard of the frame. When the threads & nut were inboard, they were hitting the exhaust tubing on both sides. Again, I forgot to take pics.

I am sorry for the trouble you are having with getting your rig going. Seem par for the course on my projects, but I am always happy when they are done. Just keep plugging away and you'll get it done. I hope you procure your stock pitman soon as it looks like that will align things quite well!

J.D.

Hey, thanks for the positive thoughts. Its really not that bad, and I didn't expect it to be easy. I feel the worst for my dogs, they expect to get out & run on the weekends & I have had to ignore them lately. My girlfriend is coming to town this weekend & we're planning on running the dogs till they drop!

I really did underestimate the time it would take. Its coming along, and the results are going to be nice. There is not too much left, front bumpstops, shock mounts, bleed the brakes, some more frame clean up & new exhaust. Some of these jobs are better done with 2 guys, not alone. That can get frustrating. I thought I'd have more help from a friend that I've helped out A LOT. That hasn't happened, and I'm reevaluating how much help he'll receive in the future.

I have a history of biting off "more than I can chew". I don't do things half way. I'm also gutting/remodeling my home, built in 1882. You want to talk about a project that is dragging out, check out my house. I like to take a break from the house, and work on cars, then when I'm sick of cars, I'll go back to work on the house. If I were smart, I'd just spend the weekends camping, hunting & snowboarding, but I'm a glutton for punishment.

Nothing to it but to do it.

Chad

Making progress......

I've installed the new 1310 pinion yoke, removed the conversion u-joint from the rear driveshaft & reinstalled my old 1310 u-joint, and finally, installed my rear driveshaft.

I welded my shock mounts to the rear axle. I'm running one shock in front (on the left side) and one shock behind the rear axle, till I buy a new upper rear shock mount.

I also added new upper shock mounts to the old J/D "Super Hoops". Due to the extra width of the axles, I had to put the shocks on the outside of the hoops. I used the lower rear shock mounts that came with my J/D lift, on the front. I didn't have a camera, but will post pics soon.

I've also greased all my tierods & drag links, and rear driveshaft.

All that is left to be mobile again, is to add oil to the diffs, and bleed & adjust the brakes. I'll recheck all my bolts & jam nuts, I should have that done by tomorrow evening.

I've half-assed/skipped a few minor details to get it running for this weekend. I'll have a few smaller, bite sized, projects to clean everything up & make her trail worthy again. Finish rear shock mounts, re-do rear brake lines, add front bumpstops, and add a steering stabilizer. Most importantly, I'll have to get a new exhaust before I can get the front driveshaft installed. I'll also have to flip the large bolt that secures the radius arms to the frame bracket, after new exhaust. This will free up the space needed to reinstall the aux gas tank.

Very happy to be seeing the "end" of the project. Some of the processes were very difficult & discouraging. Some of the steps fell together like they were meant to be.

Plus, I've ended up with new C***y 1-ton/DOM steering, a TRO swap, and will get a bada$$ new exhaust sooner than expected. These were not in the plans for the project, but were planned for the near future. I'll be very excited to get out and test this thing soon. I hope it'll drive ok on the highway with the 3.50 gears. I think I can live with the loss of gearing on the trail, temporarily. I'm just not sure I can live without the locker I've lost to the swap.

Can't wait!

Chad

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I've been driving it for a few days now. After sorting out the brake/bleeding problems I was having. I'm waiting on a proportioning valve, to turn down the rear brakes. They'll lock up way before the fronts will.

I've only driving around town, but the ride is much softer. I'm guessing most is from the loss of 2 front shocks. I wish I had done that much earlier. I'm sure the long arms have helped, but its hard to tell. The steering is tight & responds well. I do have some bump steer. Maybe getting the steering stabilizer back on will help? I've also got a stock pitman arm from CCB member "dalli" - very easy, very quick. Thanks.

I'll post up as I get the final pieces done. I've ordered BC Broncos headers, they shipped today & I've got a 2-1 Magnaflow muffler to install. My neighbor/muffler shop will do the custom tubing. I wasn't sure the BC Bronco kit would clear the front driveshaft & didn't think it was worth the risk.

Chad

Steering damper won't do much to correct the bump steer. Do you have a trac bar relocation bracket?

I cut off my drop bracket from the frame & am using the original mounting point.

I could either raise the mount on the axle or try the stock pitman arm I got. I'm worried that using the stock pitman arm will put the draglink & frame crossmemeber too close.

Chad

Still working on the brake situation, proportioning valve has arrived.

But tomorrow these go on:
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Seems they are usually on B/O with BC Broncos, but timing was on my side, and they arrived just a few days after I ordered them. Someone in the shop had a slightly used Magnaflow muffler he had it as a 3"x1 to 2.5"x2. But Magnaflow are reversible, so I'll use it as a 2 to 1 exhaust. Looks like it will fit. Should be sweet and I saved a bit on the muffler.

OOOOOH - very nice shiny headers. Me Like.

Time for a real update. I've been busy with friends visiting, and the unfortunate reality of yard work lately. We are finally starting to get leaves on the trees up here.

The real battle for this build has been the brakes. I should have just used the "stock" 79 Bronco calipers. The set up was working well on my truck, before the axle swap. Since I was buying new calipers & brake hoses for the new axles, it seemed like it would be a "free" upgrade. I was wrong.

First, when I ground the collar on the caliper to clear the brake hose, I nicked the flat "sealing" surface around where the copper crush washer sits. This made sealing the system impossible. So I bought a new set of calipers. I'll keep the others as a "rebuild" kit, only a $3 core. When I ground the new ones, I put an old crush washer & rubber plug in place to avoid grinding too close. This goes way back a few weeks, but I hadn't mentioned it and wanted to caution anyone grinding on their calipers.

Since then I've struggled to get my brake system "balanced". None of it really has to do with the build, and hopefully will be fixed soon. You can read more here:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1767

I did get my new BC headers & exhaust installed. It all looks good, my neighbor's shop did a real nice job. They kept the routing tight to the body & frame. They had to remove my OBA tank, so I'll have to relocate that. We also did a quick adjustment to my gas tank strap, I'll have to make up a permanent solution to that. No big deal. My only concern is that the tube from the driver side may interfere with my HP diff. I'm going to pull the springs & set bump stops this weekend, so I should find out soon.
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The truck sounds great! After running for 14 years with the exhaust exiting in front of the rear tires & cheapo/leako mufflers, its very nice with a rear exhaust. Its actually quieter. Its got a little better throttle response & my SOP dyno indicates some more giddyup.

Oh yeah, I also relocated the rear line brake line dropping from the frame to the axle. Built/moded the hard lines & welded a nut to the axle, bolted down the block.
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As the truck has come together, I'm more and more happy with the results. I have ventured out on the highway, some quick runs to the lake. I'm worried that if I had to make an emergency stop, my brakes may let me down. It runs great down the highway at 55-65 mph. Before it was always moving around in the lane. Now it tracks with much less driver input. Probably due to fixing the rear spring pack/rear axle alignment & possible incorrect caster/c-bushing installation. I still want to get my camber figured out, it is probably off. I know the longer radius arms and 2 less front shocks made a huge difference in the ride as well. It has a little bounce, but much less harsh, especially around town. The 3.50 gears make running on the highway much quieter. The noise difference between turning 2700 rpm & 2200 rpm is amazing. Makes me want a 4R70W bad. The performance is ok on the highway, since I don't do much passing in the Bronco, its tolerable. It takes some time to "spool up", at 2200 rpm, compared to dropping the hammer at 2700 rpm. I haven't had it on the highway with the new exhaust yet.

I'm sure, when, I get the brakes worked out, I'm going to love it. It drives so nice, on the road its starting to feel more like a newer SUV, than a 40 year old rock crawler. I haven't ventured into the rocks yet, have a test run scheduled in a couple weeks. Need to get these brakes figured.

Chad

Nice update! Glad you are driving this thing now. I really hope you get your brakes fixed soon!

As for the exhaust and your diff - from what I am seeing, they may come close, but I would bet it'll clear.

J.D.

Didn't get to pull the springs this weekend (stinking yardwork). But with the springs in, jacking up one corner at a time doesn't move the diff anywhere close to the exhaust. In fact, it doesn't move the axle up much at all, pretty stiff springs. I'll pull them this week & see how it flexes out.

Scheduled the truck with our mechanics. I'm over it. If they can assure me there is no air, then they are to test my m/c. If there is no air & the m/c is good, then I'm going to switch back to F150 calipers.

Chad

I've had it up and running for a while now & must say that it drives great! I couldn't be happier, it drives great on the highway, responsive steering, tracks straight, and is much softer off road. With the brakes figured out, the T-bird calipers pulled the bias from the rear towards the front. I installed a proportioning valve, but it is fully open & doesn't need to be there.

After seeing Colorado75bronc's arm pics, I thought I should finish what I started & get my last few pics up.

To set up the bumpstops, I pulled my front springs & jacked the axle up into the truck. Turns out the diff pinion hit the exhaust at about the same point the tires hit the "modified" wheel wells. I figured the bumpstops needed to stop the axle about 5.5" from the frame. I used my old front bumpstops & conveniently enough, had some 2x4 steel around that set things perfect. I don't have much up travel before the stops. But with the new arms, the axle drop is awesome!

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I noticed that with the bumpstops set, the front shocks were a few inches short of full compression. Also, the available suspension drop was far beyond the travel of the shock. I had a couple shock mounts leftover from another project. With them mounted to the top of the new arms, the shocks are almost completely compressed at the bump stop. You can see where I had added a upper mount to the outside of the hoops, but now that I'm using the new lower mounts, I switched back to the original shock location.

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I need to build some limit straps, because I'm sure the front end will still drop farther than the shocks. I have a bunch of old seat belt around. I was going to cut the belts to length, fold each end over a few times & melt a hole/bolt through it to mount it. Should I fold the ends around a piece of metal? or would just running a bolt through the belt material be enough?

I have a small oxygen tank for an OBA tank. It was mounted to the inside of the passenger frame rail, but the new exhaust system required its relocation. I built a bracket that hangs from 2 of the rear floor cross members. I also found a set of air filters that the shop tried for cleaning the painter's air supply. They didn't do the job for the paint booth, but they fit nicely in the Bronco! The first is for sediment & water, the second is a coalescing filter for oil. They have self draining bleeders that empty the oil & junk when the system is turned off & drained of pressure. I need to upgrade the pump outlet hose to hydraulic hose, the heater hose I used blew a hole in it while airing up a couple weeks ago.

Although I did the "oil plug" fix for the York, I'm still pushing lots of oil. I realized that most the oil was no longer in the York pump, but was in my tank. Does this mean the pump head needs rebuilt, or what?

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awesome man, good to see ya got it all figured out and driving, i would still highly rec. moving those lower coil cups inward or uppers outward, soon, but other wise looks good

Yeah, didn't get that done. Its on the list, and I'm going to build a track bar riser too. There is a significant bow.

Chad

ya next for mine is get rid of the trac bar drop bracket, build a riser, new trac bar and steering, all out of dom and heims, and go tie rod over, and i guess i could build a front bumper for the winch thats been sitting in my garage for a year and a half