In the last 6 months I've read so many EFI threads I think I've got most things accounted for and appropriately bookmarked. There are a few things I remember reading, or THINK I remember reading & want to ask before I jump into this.

First, a few basics, I'll be installing a 96 Explorer intake. I'm going to order a new harness. I have a core for a rebuilt computer I'll purchase at Carquest.

What is a good thermostat to use- brand/part number? I think 195* is the right temp.

What spark plugs? I'm putting this on a motor of unknown compression, cam, etc. It was a "short block" put in about 1 year before I bought the truck. High altitude & low octane, that's how I roll.

It looks like the EGR is part of the 90* elbow between the throttle body & intake. What is the best way to handle the EGR? I don't have any state run, pinko commie, smog tests to worry about.

EFI computer questions:
I run a manual NP 435 right now. I want to go to an auto someday, but it will be a long while. I thought I read that an auto computer could work with a manual or vise versa. Is there one computer I could buy that I wouldn't have to replace if I swap trannys?

VSS? Looks like I need one w/the manual trans. Does it replace the speedo cable in the D20? How does the speedo work/connect?

I read about remote locating your TFI module. Moving it from the high heat of the dizzy to cooler location on a heat sink. Any thoughts?

Is the light used to read the ECU codes, the same as a "check engine" light?

EFI fuel questions:
I'm getting a "Ford van EFI fuel pump" set up from Zilla. Feel kinda stupid, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm getting & how it can work in my situation. Right now I want to run 2 tanks. I already have a switch valve & return lines plumbed. I plumbed them 15 years ago when I tried, unsuccessfully, to get a Holley ProJection to work. I've been running my carb w/a pressure reg that returns unused fuel to the tanks.

Are regular fuel lines w/hose clamps adequate? I have 3/8" & 5/16" flared steel lines on the frame w/fuel hose & clamps connecting the tanks, switch, etc. The Holley Pro Jection had pumps @ each tank & just used hose barbs & clamps.

What should I do to connect fuel line to the fuel rails?

Should I rebuild/clean the fuel injectors? The kit is cheap enough, and I don't mind taking the time. They have 88,000 miles on them.

Does the wiring for the fuel pump go through the ECU harness or its own power source? I could probably look this up, but know someone here knows.

Keep checking back, I'm sure I'll be adding more as I go.

Thanks
Chad

As always, thanks. Sound like I can save a few bucks if I don't need a VSS or new spark plugs, mine are fine.

I want to make sure I'm reading right. If I buy a manual ECU, it will work fine with an auto trans in the future.

I think I've got the factory fuel line clips. I cut the soft fuel hose before the motor was pulled. How do they come apart?

I think all I'm missing is an ECU, coil, O2 sensors & bungs, wire harness, accumulator- suggestion???, tstat, & rad hoses. All of which I don't mind buying new. Honestly, I've had dizzy problems leave me almost stranded & considered buying a new dizzy & carrying the one I pulled from a 90 Lincoln as back up. I've got 2 BP sensors, a Ford Taurus SHO MAF (same as 55mm Mustang), Explorer TPS, ECT & ACT.

Where the hell is the knock sensor, I assume I have an Explorer one somewhere on the motor?

Oh yeah, what upper hose to an EB radiator? Stockish Bronco v-belt front end, not Explorer serp.

edit: I got a fuel inertia switch from the Merq Mystique that gave its life for my seating enjoyment.

195 thermostat is correct.

Spark plugs to match heads. Gap about 0.045".

A9L (manual ECM) if you plan to use a manual at some time. The auto ECM may return to idle a little slower.

Try it without the VSS first. May not need one. If you need to add it you can easily.

Remote TFI is a good way to keep them alive but I have the distributor mounted one on mine and haven't killed it in 3 years. If you want to do it I can make up a diagram for you.

CEL also flashes the codes.

You need supply and return lines to both tanks and a 6 port valve. You may need a low pressure pump at each tank. Not sure if the HP pump can pull through the valve very well. You can try it without the LP pumps but don't be surprized if it dies on really hot days or at high altitudes.

Use EFI rated hose after the HP pump. Return is all low pressure.

Clean and test the injectors. It's rediculously cheap insurance. They have replaceable filters.

Use the inertia switch.

There's brazillions of TFI coils in wrecking yards. Get new O2 sensors.

No knock sensor.

Sweet, thanks guys. The coil is the one thing I didn't get when I was at the yard. You guys answered all my questions, at least all the ones that come to mind right now. I'll post up more as this develops.

I think I'm going to order my harness soon and strip the EFI stuff off my Explorer motor.

Thanks again,
Chad

There are a lot of junkyard TFI's out there already with heat sink.

I get a good discount @ Carquest and think I"m going to buy a new TFI module, and carry my junk yard one as a back up, after testing it. May do the same with the entire dizzy too. There are no junk yards within a couple hour drive, so add gas or shipping and my price at Carquest starts looking good. I grabbed as much as I could when I grabbed my motor in April, but now am stuck with what I've got. I'm jealous of you guys who get to browse the yards for ideas. I get to browse the wrecked cars I work on for ideas.

Chad

Last night I read up on the pump situation. BCB shows a single low pressure pump pulling through the 6 way valve, then to the accumulator, then to the HP pump. I'm not sure how well all this would fit, without a lot of work.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuel%20system% ... 20mark.pdf

I also read that some people are plumbing from the main tank to the EFI, only. But adding a low pressure pump, and plumbing to fill the main tank from your Aux tank. So you don't loose the capacity.

If I used the van HP pump (commonly known as a E2000, I think), and mounted it very close to the main tank, would it need an accumulator? I have a Facet LP pump I could use as a transfer pump between the aux & main tanks. I think pulling the 6 way valve, and plumbing only one tank would be easier than trying to make both tanks work. Plus if I get a bigger tank/intank pump, I'm already to go. I could even keep the aux tank & have huge fuel capacity.

BCB has a diagram for this too, its on the right side, and shows a "transfer hose" and valve from the aux tank too. I'm not sure I'd do that, but whatever.
http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuel%20system% ... 20mark.pdf

Chad

I am getting by just fine with one 23-gal (not including dents), one LP Holley pump near tank and one HP pump in the engine bay. No Accumulator. Only had it starve out once because I was low on fuel and climbing a steep bank idling there forever. Wouldn't hesitate to run this setup again.

I did the 6 port valve and 2 lp pump 1 hp set up it works fine, and the accumulator fits pretty well in the engine bay, FWIW i am going to do the in tank pump set up on my wifes rig.... expensive but over all easier to plumb.

I read where you might be selling the 96 block?? let me know

Thanks for all the info, gives me lots to think about. I better start by getting an accumulator, and then see where I can fit it all.

Since I can't really afford the sweet BCB tank right now, I need to decide if I'm going to use the 6 port valve or do the transfer pump thing. It all adds up to 2 lp pumps & 1 hp pump, any way I slice it.

Thanks again,
Chad

I did think of something. I know there are some dizzys that are set up for the remote TFI, like J.D.s. What cars did they come out of? If I want to remote mount the TFI would it be better to get the dizzy for the remote TFI or just use a Mustang dizzy.

What is the difference in the wire harness if I bought a remote dizzy, compared to the wire harness if I pull the TFI off the Lincoln/Mustang dizzy? Viper a wiring diagram would be awesome here, I worked on spas for 15 years so I love wiring diagrams. I understand electronics best visually.

Thanks
Chad

'94-'95 mustangs used the remote TFI. Get a distributor for one of them.

Here are the RJM diagrams for both.

Thanks, more stuff to chew on. Perfect.

Chad

I vote for an "EFI Install and Tuning Tech Day" next year. I'll have a donor Bronco and engine ready to go by that time:)

How about a field trip for the CCB guys, to Gunnison. Based on the guys I have already met, it would probably end up like "The Hangover".

J/K. Really, thanks for all the help guys.

Chad

I am wondering how companies like CarQuest and others "re-manufacture" these EECs. Is it only a cosmetic job or are they using new circuits etc?

I really hope that kind of thing isn't happening. I doubt it, I work for a GM dealership & we buy lots of our parts from Carquest, and we don't see a bunch of stuff coming back due to bad parts. We'd probably quit using Carquest pretty quick. Gunnison only has a Napa & a Carquest, and I don't think they are selling bad products. I haven't lived anywhere with an Autozone, Orielies, or anything like that.

Chad

BCB put on a class a few years ago. It was pretty basic as to what you need (sensors, wiring etc) and what you can bypass and what options you had as far as engines, intakes, etc... Was very good and I have a handout from that class. I should see if my wife can scan it and maybe we can upload it here for reference??

J.D.

In April, I pulled a TFI & heat sink from a random Ford Aerostar. I thought I was just going to junk the TFI & put the Mustang TFI on it, like in the rangerstation article. Looks like the 94/95 Mustang uses the Aerostar TFI.

PN: F1SF-12A297-C2A

If I use the 94/95 Mustang dizzy & remote TFI mount, I can still use the A9L computer? Can RJM build the harness for that, or will I have to move things around? I know I could contact him, I will soon, just want to have my ducks in a row.

Also, my TFI is black, not grey, what is the difference? The wiring diagram above is for a grey TFI.

Thanks,
Chad

It is not recommended to use a CCD (black) module with the earlier A9* series ECM. It may work but you'll probably get an ignition diagnostic monitor code.

I would use the RJM universal harness and change a few wires to match the diagram above. If you have the remote TFI harness it would be easy. I'm sure Ryan could custom build a harness but it may take a while and it won't be cheap.

Thanks for answering, I've been reading and getting nowhere but more & more confused. So I need to get a gray remote TFI, is there a Motorcraft part number you can suggest? Or use the TFI off the Lincoln dizzy I've got, I think its gray. Do you have that m/c part number?

Do RJM universal harness come with the Explorer plugs or how does that work, figured it would be "custom" because I was mixing Mustang & Explorer junk.

Thanks
Chad

I don't know the part number or application for the gray remote TFI.

The RJM harness does not come with explorer plugs. The Explorer plugs you need depend on the year. This page will show you the differences in the connectors: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/pages/5 ... ility-list

Here is some additional info on the remote TFI. Using the gray distributor mounted TFI in a remote heat sink might be a good option. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... ote+TFI%2A

Found it. E7DF-12A297-A2A is gray remote TFI from Lightning.

Thanks. I need to pull my intakes off the motor and figure which sensors plugs I need.

Appreciate the TFI info. I'm going to price out some options.

Chad