Those are the most bad-a$$ looking valve covers around IMHO for a stroker... Yup, they'll be two EB"s running around with those! One in CO and one in WA... :)

Something I haven't researched yet is -what rockers will or will not fit in those covers? You going 1.6 or 1.7 ratio and brand?

Ditto on CHP. We used their stuff while building a 454 cu in SBF Dart block (stuffed in an EB) 2 summers ago and had nothing but problems...

Have you bought the throttle body yet? Keep us posted on the brand of the rods as I'm looking for 6.25" cap screw style with Chebby rod journals .927"

I haven't looked into rockers that much yet. I still need to read up on the ratios as 1.6 and 1.7 don't mean much to me yet. I'm buying the parts as I put the thing together so haven't got the throttle body. I did learn that for our application (1000-5000 rpm) the 75mm unit is probably better.

I'm fairly sure that the valve covers will work fine with most roller rockers out there....but like everything else, may be trial and error.

Rocker ratio is 1.6 stock. A 1.7 rocker ratio is like having a bigger cam. It actually changes the lift amount at the valve while running a smaller cam. I'd just stick with the 1.6 rockers. For the valve covers you will need to make sure they are taller than the stock stamped steel covers.

It's the height that matters. Roller rockers are a bit bigger than the stamped steel stockers. so they will need just a bit more room in regards to height on the inside of the valve cover. From what I have gathered most aftermarket valve covers are taller the the stamped steel for that reason. Im sure there wont be an issue.

Yeah, that's why I asked about the ratio...if you go with a higher ratio than stock like a 1.7 for example, your lift (lobes) on your cam aren't as big therefore you have more clearance for your rod ends. If your cam is designed for your specific rocker arm ratio, you can use that to your advantage.
ZOSO is right about the rocker size, most aftermarket are large enough- usually it's the baffles inside that create issues. You can also buy spacers that fit btw the head sealing surface and the valve cover that creates more room-they barely show.

These are the rockers I'm most likely going with...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP2017

Wow, had no idea about the rocker ratio affecting the rod-cam clearance......that would be #127th lesson learned:) I think it's working out well with the new rods on the way though.

You'll need pushrod guide plates. I would check the heads and see whatever size studs too. There will be 3/8"s and 7/16"s.

I talked to FordStrokers today and the rods are on their way from CA. I'll post comparison pics when they arrive. Plan is to remove the pistons I have installed and then take them and the new rods over to CamResearch to have them assembled. I'll then start test fitting everything again. Once everything clears, I'll take the crank, pistons/rods, flexplate and damper back for re-balancing.

At the anticipation of the arrival of the new rods this week, I contemplated disassembling/assembling the pistons/rods myself instead of making yet another trip to the machine shop. A few YouTube videos later and I was loaded with the confidence to do it:) For those of you that don't know, the current preferred method of holding the wrist pins in place is the use of "SpiroLocks". These little buggers work great but they are a !@#$%$! to remove and install until you get the hang of it. There is a special tool you can buy that apparently makes it easier but I didn't want to fork over more $ for it.

Here are some pics of the SpiroLocks after I got them all disassembled. I was "lucky" enough to find out these pistons use dual locks on each side...so a total of 4 per piston...good times. I left the piston/wrist-pin/rod assembly together so I make sure each of the new rods goes on correctly. I also took notes as to which direction they face.....all face the same way.

Is the cam dowel only used when a fuel-pump eccentric will be installed? Can I leave it out if running EFI and only electric pumps or is the dowel necessary either way?

the dowel keeps the timing chain in place also.

Shouldn't be a problem filing it down at all. Probably too long because your not using the fuel pump eccentric.

New rods are here. So both CHP and many others use RPM Manufacturing and there name on it. Wish I would have known this when I ordered the kit...MUCH cheaper ordering direct!

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com

Here are some pics of the rods...and comparison shots. I assembled one of the rods and pistons and installed it in the block. It cleared the cam beautifully....and then it hit the block near the oil pump. This is a typical area where the block is notched for strokers so it appears I just need to grind a bit more.

IMG_2054.JPG

Comparison shot....and rod inserted around crank before cap.

More....

Rods look nice! Jim was saying that you should have received them by now... : ) Sure glad they clear your cam with plenty of clearance. Are you putting a main cap girdle on?

How much clearance btw the cap screw and the block on that last pic? Looks like plenty of clearance so you're burning the midnight oil again!!! : ) Gotta feel good being able to move forward again!

Is CHP taking your old rods back?

Got all 8 rods and pistons installed. A few others hit but its where the pistons skirts were notched. I can easily widen those notches a bit and they should all clear. My one dilemma is this......do I disassemble the entire block, do the grinding, then wash is out and reassemble it again? I can't test fit each after I start grinding as particles will surely get down in the cylinders and other areas.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

So nice to see all the pistons moving in unison:)

Thanks guys. Tonight I got it all torn down again. I used a die grinder and opened up the notches some more. I really tried to remove a lot of material but not too much. This weekend I'll wash it all out again with dawn and brushes and then reassemble again. I hoping that everything clears so I don't have to do it all over again.

You're gonna end up with "dish pan" hands buddy!!!! HA ha You'll appreciate being careful and clean down the road... PITA having to do it over and over tho.


"MPC Heads has an awesome main girdle/windage tray kit that work sweet."

Yup, pan clearancing, pump pickup, etc... They help the 2 bolt mains keep from walking on the big Windsor strokers... a little anyway. I've been trying to find a way to make a girdle do the work of a Dart block... !! Jim has convinced me otherwise... $$$ ouch. I've had a roller block sitting in the shop for 4 yrs now....

Looking good. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the words of encouragement:) Here are some pics from the tear down and then after I finished grinding.

One issue I've thought of, on some of the spots where I widened the skirt notch, there is ever so slight a "lip" on the interior of the skirt....I know this would normally be honed off but since I won't be doing that, is it ok to gently file it down with a jeweler's file or similar?

IMG_2089.jpg
IMG_2090.jpg

Few more....

Grinding all the extra, un-needed metal off that block is a good thing...it'll lower your E. T.'s ;-) Remember, you get to grind some more off around that oil pump base too! Check that before you put those slugs back in there.

less metal/less weight=more power to the ground : )

Looking good...

So yesterday I got the block all washed out and dried again. Then I reassembled everything and piston #1 as that is the one that needed the most material removed from the block. Well, it clears now...but only by .027 and I need to be around .060:(. So disassembling I go again today. I may first install all the rest of the pistons to check their clearances.