Orings were fine, the pintle caps are hard plastic.

Does anyone know if I need 2-139:
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Bosch-Ty ... ainer.html
or
2-140
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Bosch-Ty ... Taper.html

the resistance of the orings is what caused that. If you were fighting to get them in either they are the wrong size or the oring was holding them up. You might have been pressing them in at an angle causing you to crack them. You should be able to easily push them in by hand and not have to fight them.

The injectors installed & removed with almost no resistance. It was installing the pintle caps onto the injectors (when I rebuilt the injectors) that was hard & broke the pintles. Here are instructions that state to heat the pintle caps up before installing them or they will break. I should have left the old ones on, they were in fine shape.

http://www.mrinjectorparts.com/uploads/ ... type_3.pdf

Oh i get ya now. didnt know you rebuilt them.

I used new gaskets spec'd for 74 Bronco, the Fel Pro 1250S3 would never have sealed.

You don't have a schrader valve on your fuel rails? That's how I have depressurized mine.

Hope you find/found the leak!

Yes there is a valve on the fuel rail, it was depressurized by the time I got to work on it. Haven't had time to put a vac to the new intake seal, but I think everything went well. I'll see this afternoon. It was obvious that the gaskets I used were the problem.

I borrowed a 7/8"x9 tap, that will thread the EGR hole in the upper manifold, now I just have to find a bolt to fit.

Found a 7/8" bolt, of course it was grade 8, so it was $6.25. I cut about 1" off the end, cleaned up the cut end & cut a groove for a flat head screwdriver. Threaded the upper intake & cleaned things out.



I tried the copper spray sealant I used on the intake gaskets, but it was too thin, I'm thinking red hitemp RTV. I don't think the Great Stuff is rated for exhaust temps. Since the thread is straight, it really needs something with some body to make the plug stay.

I have a new injector rebuild kit in UPS from RJM, and it looks like it should be here Thursday, so I'm going to organize some more wires & mount the ECU tomorrow night. Should be back up and running soon. I guess it was a good thing the intake gasket failed. The pintle tops of the injectors did not look like that when I installed them. They showed some plastic stress from installation, but none were cracked. I think the force of the fuel injecting was tearing them apart & it wouldn't have been long before a piece of plastic would have been chunked into a valve/cylinder.

Oh yeah, I pulled a vacuum on the cooling system & it pulled a vac. So it should be fine to fill & run!

I think you could put a couple stake marks around the plug to keep it from falling out.

I'll try that at work today.

Thanks
Chad

Thread addicts calling GunniBronco

Come in Gunni

I said it once and I'll say it again...


vrooom vroooomm??

Sorry guys, I've been waiting on the new injector pintles from RJM. Looks like UPS has them & will deliver them today. I considered trimming off broken pintle ends, leaving the oring retainer & reinstalling everything, but RJM got the new kit out so fast, I just waited for the parts before moving forward. I'm confident that it will be running this evening.

I actually took a couple nights off this week. I know there are some loose ends I could have tied up, but I really want to hear it run before I start making things permanent.

Vrooom, vrooom, sweet! Drip, drip, damn!

I replaced all 8 pintle tips this evening, then reassembled the fuel rail, upper manifold, etc. Battery was almost dead. Could that be from leaving the ECU test port grounded for the last few days?

Put a jump pack/charger on the truck for a bit & started right up. CEL stayed on. Idle fluctuated.

Then drip, drip, drip....... damn waterneck. I tried installing this gasket dry too, that'll learn me. So I drained some a/f & removed the tstat & made a new gasket & sealed it up, this time with some Great Stuff. I'll leave it overnight & try again tomorrow.

I took a video of my CEL sequence after running the truck this evening. I think I figured out what was going on this time. I'll watch it and post my results. I know the same 15 & 22 came up again. I checked my BP fitting, it was ok. Will the 22 code stay until I clear the codes (I haven't done that), even if the BP is fixed?

Creeping ever closer to being finished. Wow, I can figure out how to install all this stuff, but the normal, everyday things are getting me now. Par for the course for me.

And my alternator still didn't charge, it was spinning, but the volts dropped immediately after pulling the charger off, when the truck was running. I know the grounds are good, I assume its getting voltage from the green RJM alternator wire. Starting to think I've got a bad alternator.

Here is the list of KOEO codes:
15 - already know this is ok
22- BP sensor o/r -
81- Air management 2 circuit failure (AM2/TAD).
82- Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB) .
85- Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure.
84- EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.
why did 85 flash before 84?
96- Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC did not sense battery voltage on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit.

I'll get the CM and hopefully the KOER test tomorrow.

edit: 96 is listed as "The fuel pump relay did not send power to the fuel pumps" in the RJM instruction manual. The list above is from the oldfuelinjection code list.

Clear the codes first. That will eliminate 15 and maybe 22 and 96. The 80's emissions codes will always show but you can ignore them.

Thanks, I just read the hard/soft code info in the instructions and I realized I hadn't done that since you suggested it. I'll do it before I start things tomorrow. In the instructions, it says to remove the STI wire after testing, so I bet it caused a slow drain on my battery. Hopefully. I also need to figure this alternator thing out. I think I'll get an LED for the alternator & install it.

Codes won't clear, should I pull the wire before the codes start flashing or after. I've pulled the wire during the codes flashing, I'll try pulling the wire before the codes I guess.

I screwed myself this time, I always tie up my thermostat in the neck to keep it in place when I install it. This time I used a wire that was too heavy it kinked & would not come out this morning. After a hour of trying, I just broke down & pulled the neck & started over. Judging by the clean up it took, that gasket was well sealed. So now I'm giving the sealant a little time to dry and I'll keep trying this after noon. What a crap show.

Viper, do you know if I should use an LED w/a resistor or without for the alternator light. I've read different things, I picked up both types today.

You need to pull the ground before the codes flash.

I don't think an LED is going to work well for an alternator charge indicator. A regular 12V bulb is fine. The resistor is just to provide a current path if the bulb blows.

I tried about everything to clear the codes. The only thing that worked was that code 22 went away after swapping a different BP.

Last time I checked the codes I was still getting 15, 96, and the garbage ones.

I installed an LED w/resistor in the alt line (I know I read that somewhere) and it is staying on after the engine is running. I'll play with another light soon & see whats up. They have a charging diagnosis machine at our main shop, and now that I've got a 3g, they can hook me up and see what is happening.

But more importantly: Vroom, vroom

Took some time and let the RTV dry, tied up some loose ends and then fired it up. No leaks! Warmed it up, topped off the coolant, set the base timing, and everything seems good. No CEL light, but I haven't checked codes since it ran. I did a little round town driving, then took it for a decent spin down the highway. Everything is running real good. Throttle response is nice, and the pedal is smooth and much lighter than my old carb. Didn't trim my hood, there is a little rubbing on the air filter & tps wire loom, I'll trim things up soon, but it looks like I could have squeezed it in, by the skin of my teeth.

My only complaint, is that the RPMs are very slow to return to idle. Is there something to do for this?

I'm glad I put the ECT in the manifold, I put my mechanical temp gauge in the heater line. Since there is no by pass, with the heater valve shut, the temp reads 160 when the engine is 200.

I'll run a new batch of codes this evening.

Can't say enough THANKS to all you guys for giving advice & support. It would have been a real battle without you guys.

Chad

The LED will always be on when forward biased. If it was reverse biased it would never come on and neither would the alternator.

Remind us again what ECM and harness you used. The auto trans ECU returns to idle slower than the manual. Code 15 could be a problem in the way the harness is connected to power. Code 96 could be harness issue too.

I used the RJM universal/unloomed wire harness. I intended to buy a computer for a manual trans, I checked the plug in the RJM harness & it is set to manual trans. I'll go back and double check that I bought a manual ECU. I ran the "battery" wire direct to the + terminal, the "start/run" wire to the wire that used to trigger my MSD 6T, and ran the "start only" to the S terminal on the starter coil.

My alternator is not charging, I'll try a different light.

I just pulled all my codes and here they are, I haven't had any chance to look them up myself:
KOEO:
15 & 96
CM:
29- VSS, this make sense I'm not running one
33-EGR valve- not running one
96- same fuel pump as KOEO

KOER:
94-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (left side).
44-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side).
guessing we don't use these, since I don't know what a Thermactor Air Injector is.
33-again with the EGR valve.

I can confirm I bought a reman'd computer for a 5 speed car Cardone #78-4352

This is the only link I can find about the 15 code(suggests a failing computer, I have a 1 year warranty):
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2gez5-do ... nswer.html

I was scanning articles about the 96 codes & one mentioned a short/ground/open circuit on the fuel pump. I did disconnect the HP pump & just run the LP pump before starting the truck for the first time.

My only thought is that I'm failing to reset my codes, but I've pulled the ground every different way possible, and even pulled the battery cables earlier today. So on Monday I'll go into the shop and see if someone there has a code reader & can reset my codes for sure. Otherwise I'm happy, its running great.

Chad sounds like you got it except for a few stray bugs. Hope to see it this summer.

Yeah, I'm pretty stoked. Looks like I can look at the IAB & TPS as causing the slow to return to idle. I'm a little confused with the codes, part of me thinks I'm not resetting them. Tomorrow, I may pull the battery cables for 10 minutes & then see what the codes are. I'm sure a mechanic at the shop will be able to check it for me next week.

Also, I talked to the guy who built my alternator, he answered the phone & had a long discussion with me on a Saturday night (pretty cool!). He basically admitted it sounded like his alternator has failed & he'll be replacing it. I'm going to pull it out next week and call him back. So, that is good news.

Congrats Gunni !

Can't tell you how impressed I am with the fact that you did this on your own.

Yes! You got some help on here but it is clear that you researched the heck out of everything and just needed confirmations /second opinions.

Well done !

I had a mechanic run codes on the scanner at work. I wasn't there when it happened, but he says he cleared the codes & they all returned(his list matched mine). So maybe I WAS clearing the codes, but since they all remained, I couldn't tell. The only 2 that I'm worried about are 15 and 96.

The only thing I've read about if 15 won't clear is the computer is bad.

I'm going to try swapping the relays around and see if that gets rid of 96.

If anyone can shed light on these codes let me know. I did get the access codes to get on alldatapro a site our dealership pays a subscription to that has diagnosis & disassembly/reassembly instructions. I think it may be a bad ECU & I'm going to have to exchange it.

My alt tested bad, so I have to get a new one coming.