I don't know if the windsor is different, but I set the gap for my 302 at .043. Some of it depends on your ignition-a better system will let you run a larger gap.

I think the gap is supposed to be .045

parts store could tell you for sure.

Picked up a vacuum gauge. I hooked it up to a port on the rear of the intake manifold. While cranking....it showed about 2. I still can't get it started.

Here's one more bit of info....today it fired right up earlier. Then all of a sudden...before I did anything else, it would not start again and just continues to crank.

I also tested vacuum between the carb and dizzy....nothing during cranking. Not sure how to troubleshoot a vacuum leak. It's hard to believe that the 40+ year old seals were holding better vacuum that what I have in there now.

I would have to assume you may have an electrical issue. The reason is that you say it started and ran then it doesnt, it would idle fine but on higher rpms its not. I have a feeling you may have a electrical connection problem somewhere. Maybe a pin pushed out of its clip or something. You wont get much Vacuum if any when just cranking the engine over. I used to run a gauge on one of my engines and when I was living at 9,000 feet elevation it had between 12-15hg, down in Denver it would run around 15-17 hg @ idle.

What firing order did you go with just out of curiousity? I cant even remember what it is for a SBF off of the top of my head. 15426378? 13726548? 18436572? Am I confusing you yet?

Is it running rich when it does run? perhaps the needle/seat are bad and its loading up? Did you check your accelerator pump adjustment? Thats a common thing when an old engine is revised back to good health, years of adjusting puts it out of adjustment.

I keep adding as I go because there is so much to forget.

I'm thinking you are right. Now the light on the timing gun won't even flash....so either I have a timing or elec. issue:(. Who wants to stop by and help me troubleshoot?:)

Nice.....fires right up this morning:). Vapor lock? Still running rough though.

I think you've got it when you said the timing light didn't flash, that is proof that the plugs aren't firing. Especially if the timing light doesn't flash on all cylinders, try hooking it to other plug wires, not just #1 when the truck doesn't run. That, to me, indicates an electric issue. Intermittent electrical gremlins can be a PITA to find. I had an intermittent failure with a magnetic pickup in my MSD dizzy once. I chased all sorts of problems, even temp'd in an electric fuel pump when I knew it was getting fuel. Put in a fuel pressure guage, that will prove if the carb is seeing gas pressure, if its vapor lock, then you'll see your fuel press drop to zero. Go after what you know is wrong, don't get side tracked, its easy to start talking yourself into wild ideas that will lead nowhere. I ended up letting the truck idle till it failed, then started testing. Then it would want to start again, so I'd let it idle away till it failed again. While its running I'd lock down the timing and go from there. The rough running could be a part (coil?) that is just good enough to produce spark, but not a strong spark. Good luck, these things can drive a guy mad.

Thanks for the ideas....seems I'm not the only one who chases these things:)

It's idling great again...I let it run for 15 minutes...but still gets rough once I give it gas. I set the timing right at 11 and it's holding. Going to check each plug wire next. I think I can test the fuel pressure with this vacuum gauge so I'll try that also. The coil is new (the 2nd one in the last year) but I imagine it could be bad.

One new issue now...I put in a new temp sending unit and now the gauge is reading 220f! I'm going to leave that issue for another time though...as I think it's just a problem with the sending unit (I hope).

Yeah, I drove myself crazy with my MSD problem. I'd fix one thing and then drive the truck a bit & it would fail again. I don't believe in blindly throwing parts at the truck, you'll cost yourself a fortune and not fix it. Take each part and find out how to test it, then when the truck isn't running test the parts. Don't just go changing bunches of things, at once either, cause you won't what know is making the difference. Stay focused, and patient and look at one thing at a time. If that "thing" doesn't act or test right, look closer, and don't let your mind jump to something else if the "thing" starts acting right. Intermittent problems suck, plus I've learned I don't know how to spell intermittent.

My guess:No spark & doesn't run with extra RPM, points towards a faulty advance/dizzy/pick ups/ignition parts, maybe.

On your coil when the truck is running measure the voltage in the terminals. When starting/cranking you should have 12 volts but once running it should be 9-10 volts. If your keeping the full 12 volts to the coil when running it can cause the ciol to fail.

Something just jumped into my brain, you should be able to ohm the sending unit & if you know the temp of the motor you should be able to verify the sensor. If you have an air bubble in the cooling system, the motor could get hot fast, because the coolant isn't circulating. Always fill your coolant to about 3/4 full then, with the motor running & rad cap off, keep topping it off as the motor comes up to temp and the tstat opens & closes. I'd hate to see all this work ruined.

I don't think the sensor, or an air lock is causing your problem, but it could cause new ones.

Are you runnung points? If so try the condenser..I had a prob with my t-bird.All new parts,changed carbs a couple of times..Two weeks chaseing around the shop..Ended up being the stupid condenser..I think Zilla had the same problem with ketchup when he first bought it..Til that point I had never heard of the condenser going bad.Now i've heard about it a few times..

It has a newer malory dizzy (dual points and I'm running them both) with a new condenser on it. I just swapped in another coil I had and it's doing the same thing. I checked each plug wire with the timing gun and each flash the same so I know all of them are at least firing.

I also checked vacuum between the carb and dizzy with it running and when I gas it I'm getting 15 or so.

I'll check voltage on the coil next. Thanks for all the help guys.

I had all new parts too..Try a new condenser..It's Cheap.The symptoms i had were ,it would run and idle all day.Go to drive it and it would fall on its face..Went through every thing..Re built dist,rebuilt carb,ended up changing carb.All the tests and all the B.S.And it was the 3 dollar condenser..

I had to order the condenser for this dizzy and it was around $20. I'll try to find a generic locally again.

If you are losing spark at random times, then I would say you have a coil thats failing, then you said you replaced it and its still happening. To verify spark when it isnt starting, the easy way is to hold a test light on your negative coil terminal when cranking and it should flash (this indicates there is in fact current flowing and the plug is firing) everytime the rotor passes the cap terminal going to each plug wire. If there is no flash you need to check for positive flow to the coil at that point. I am not familiar with mallory ignition systems, do you have an ignition module? Next possible solution would be a bad module. Or your stator inside your distributor is going. too bad you cant change it with a good known one to verify.

Oh I would come over to help, but I have to go see if I can make this pertronix ignitor fit in mine and get it started for a potential buyer.

another thought, check to make sure the wires on your coil are not close to the distributor cap hold down clip. If its anywhere near that it will cause it to not fire randomly because it is getting grounded through the distributor

I just replaced the wire running from the coil to the dizzy and made it longer. I also swapped in a condenser I had laying around....same issue. Seems to be starting up each time now....just horrible with throttle.

do you know if the vacuum advance is working on the distributor, or is it mechanical, im not familiar with the dual points setup, does it run an ignition module? and does it have a ballast resistor, i doubt that would cause an issue as they usually cause starting issues, but not driveability, like jay said, condensor would cause it to fall on its face, and only get worse the longer you drive it, im sure its already been asked, but whats the condition of the points

Try putting a temporary insulator between the coil and distributor. I am assuming your coil is mounted on the intake right by the distributor?

Check accelerator pump adjustment.

Which carburetor is it again? Verify the choke butterfly isn't closing when throttle is increasing.

It's vacuum advance and points look good.

Coil is in the stock location at the front of the manifold.

It's the stock 2 barrel MotorCraft carb and was rebuilt last year.

This is the dizzy I have....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FV ... ull-site=1

Newer fuel pump.

One more...

your firing order looks right, but the wires are in the wrong position on the cap. #1 should be pointing towards rear/driver side. I have done this before and had problems as well.



Coil location shouldnt be causing the problem I was hoping it was. Is the power to it coming from the voltage regulator or starter solenoid hot terminal?
Only other answer would be low fuel supply, check fuel pressure with a gauge. Or something inside the mallory went bad like the stator or pickup.