I was just doing errands around town and happened to check the hubs to make sure they were in '"Free". I grabbed the hub and holy crap it was hot. They were both in "Free" and both were hot. Is this normal or am I missing something big. We changed all the seals and bearings, u joints a year ago when we went to disc brakes. What tests should I do to make sure everythings a okay?
Thanks!
Shawn

[b]Update: Both calipers are rubbing on the rotors. I can't spin the tires more than 180 degrees. The hoses are new and unkinked. How would I get the calipers to retract?[/b]

Thanks!

Probably heat from the brakes. Grab the rotors and see how hot they are.

Just spray it down with your big hose Mr. Fireman

We can go through the hubs on Saturday and re-pack your bearings (nothing else) if you have the time.

Yeah probably brake rotors. Go for a drive and not use your brakes and then see how the hub feels...

Seriously tho, good to check the grease in your bearings. That's the only other place heat could build up in that area.

Maybe sticking brake calipers or the bearing preload is too tight. I don't remember mine being very warm even after a day of wheeling.

Maybe caliper sticking. He has the Ford disk conversion and I know the preload is/was right. Jack it up, spin the tires and see if they turn without much resistance.

There is definately some resistance. I can spin them but they won't spin without me. I'm not sure how long they have been like this. Just on my way home (15 min) the rotors are too hot to touch (like me).

When you did the front disk conversion, did you change anything with the master cylinder? If you kept the stock drum style master, they have residual pressure valves in them that may be keeping the calipers from retracting enough.
HTH, Joe

Thanks but no. We put in a new MC with the conversion.

New calipers? Maybe time for a rebuild? I had to replace the piston on one that was corroded enough to hinder it's movement.

Calipers are only a year old. Zilla, I wish I knew how tight the bearings were. I know I had 2 reputable members running the disc install. From what I have read, since its both sides I was guessing the MC push rod but it was always in context with a booster (which I don't have).

If I take the calipers off and the rotor is still tough to turn, can I assume the bearings (maybe spindle nuts) are on too tight?

Another thought: When I had the driver side sticking hub problem I put in springs from another hub set that were slightly taller. I did the passenger side to since I was at it.

Thanks--I'm trying to get this done tonight so i can take the Junk Yard Dog to the B-fast and SWAP meet tomorrow.

I'll take the calipers off as soon as I get home and post up.

If the rotor spins easier the problem is the brakes.

If the rotor is still hard to turn then:
1. Check spindle nuts (which one do you tighten and then back off by a 1/4 turn--inside or outside?)
2. Put old springs back in
3. If it still doesn't spin--bearings (what grease would you recommend?)
4. Get hammered.


BTW- Zilla, don't think that I don't think that you are somewhat responsible for my avatar malfunction! On a serious note, I've had these hubs apart 2-3 times since and I don't recall any rotary lubricator. I hope you guys arn't fugging with me.

Note to self: Don't look up " Lubrication " on work computers!

Haha! LOL at your aviator Greg.


From Monte Python ; In Search of the Holy Grail.....I fart in your general direction!

I don't have a thermal gun and taking the wheel and calipers off wasn't a big deal. Either way I took the calipers off and the rotor spins. Good news right. Now thhe brakes...

Now with year old hoses, calipers, MC (no booster) I'm looking at the calipers trying to figure out why they are not releasing (on both sides).

If it's both rotors then the problem is upstream towards the MC.

I thought I read somewhere that the residual valve is in the distribution block? I know its that way on my 79.

At the SWAP today we thought we may have had a solution to the calpiers not releasing: The H block or (What we thought was some kind of proportion valve) was not blocking the rear drum brake pressure thus always keeping a steady force to the front calipers too. However, the "H block" (see pic- sorry it's partially blocked by a heat shield) does not regulate pressure. So here is the latest test:

The brakes were bled and I tried to spin the front driver rotor (wheel off) and it took a good amount of force. I loosend the brake line bolt to the caliper (to release the pressure) until it dripped about 1 tablespoon, retightend the bolt, and tried to spin the rotor again. It hardly had any improvement and still took some force to move. I loosened the bolt again and tried to spin the rotor and then it started to spin but the brake fluid had a steady stream. I tightened the nut before the MC got too low. Its back to being tough to turn.

The pads dragging on the rotor is normal. If its really REALLY tight then it has a restricted return port in the master cylinder, or both hoses are kinked or both calipers have sticking pistons, and that is not normal even for a brake problem because why would both go bad at the same time? The proportioning valve controls direction and volume of fluid to the front and rear axles. But pressure is at the master itself.
I would bleed the system really good then see if it improves.

Zoso may be on to something. On some master cylinders there is a valve that is designed to keep the fluid from returning to the MC in drum brake applications. You pull it out with a disc conversion. Maybe this step was missed? Checking it will require pulling the line from the master cylinder, so you may want to take a look at that before bleeding a ton more.

Hey guys. Since the calipers didn't release I traced the pressure back (from the calipers) towards the MC. Long story short the pressure released when I removed the center brake hose (between the H block and the front diff) . I called around until I found a auto parts that had the right one and popped it in. I flushed the brake lines, bled all the brakes and took it for a hard braking test drive. Got home 15 min later, jacked it up and spun the front tires and they went around 2-3 times before stopping (before it would go around 1/2 turn). I may give the brakes another bleed in the next few days and call it done.

Thanks for all the advice / time you all gave posting up and at the SWAP / Snow Bash breakfast. Bummed I didn't bash but I needed today to get it figured out/done.