I will be picking up my new lift kit this weekend and I need some options on installing it. I'm not above having a shop do it, but I would much rather do it myself with the help of fellow Bronco enthusiasts.

Here are some of the obstacle I need to overcome if I do it myself with help:

1. I'm going to need help from someone that knows how to install a kit like this.
2. I don't have a garage and working on my Bronco in the parking lot of my apartment building would be frowned upon by the apartment management.
3. Most of my tools were left in the care of my step-dad in MN so I pretty much have no tools.
4. I'm going to need the drive shafts lengthened and I don't know the turnaround. In other words, I don't know how long the Bronco will be sitting.
5. I would like this done before Memorial Day weekend so I can enjoy the weekend and also have the lift installed before tech day on June 2nd.

IF I need to have a shop do it, which should I choose?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Really, it's pretty straight forward, but you will need some specialized tools if you run into rusted bolts/nuts. Go buy a can of PB blaster and start spraying all the nuts and bolts you can find attaching to the suspension. Do this a couple times a week.

Hopefully you can find someone willing to loan you a spot in their driveway for a weekend or so. You may also consider moving the rear axle back 1" now too. There is a thread on here for instructions. It centers the tire better for lifted trucks and having 1" in extra wheel-base is a good thing off-road.

Turnaround for drive-shafts is usually a day or so. So I'd get the bronco sitting on the springs as soon as you can, then take your driveshafts in. You're rear shaft is likely to have a pretty high angle on it, so attach it to the t-case first, and see how much droop it has in it to account for the suspension droop. High angle drivelines are expensive, so you want to try to avoid them if possible.

A complete lift install is a weekend thing if you do it by yourself and you have absolutely everything ready to go, sitting there waiting to go on. Meaning get your driveshafts taken care of before you start. A good shop can turn your driveshafts around in a day, 2 at most. Make sure you have brake lines, drop/riser brackets, pitman arm, etc. ready to roll. The front end is the hard part, but the ass end should only take a couple of hours to do. Start right now and go soak every bolt on the suspension with PB blaster or another really good penetrating oil because they will be stuck on, you can count those chickens right now. If you've got help with someone who has done it, it should only take an hour or two to swap the rear springs out but the front end is basically being completely disassembled. Count a day and a half to do that. I can't help out on the wrench turning, but I can give words of advice. Plan an entire weekend to do it. If you can, do the work yourself because a shop will probably charge you somewhere in the neighborhood of $500-1000 to do the work. That's 2 guys for 3-7 hours doing the work at $70/hr shop rate. I wouldn't pay that much, and I think you are even selling yourself short on what the shop will actually charge. I imagine that it would be closer to 16-20 hours of work for a shop.

Man JD, same wavelength~~~~~~~ I just had to do other work before I could hit the send button

My wife and kids are gone most of the month of June so I would have an open space in my garage for a few weeks in June as a backup plan for ya if you can't find a place in May to get it done. It would be in a garage so no worries about angry neighbors, your stuff would be safe, and could stay on stands or parked while did lift, shafts made, etc.

I have some tools (impact, floor jack, 6 jack stands, and general tools, but nothing specialized beyond that. I always have beers, stereo, and would love to help. Got a Pizza Hut, Subway, and Del Taco blocks away. I have never done a lift so need some guys who have experience. I know that puts ya out another month tho.

I'm happy to help, depending on scheduling, and can bring tools. Even if I can't, you're welcome to borrow anything you need. You'll mostly need basic hand tools. A flare wrench will be handy for the brake lines. Plan on spending an entire weekend, might take less depending on how much help you get. Access to a basic propane torch might be a good idea for any really stuck bolts, and the advice to start using the PB Blaster now is excellent. None of it is difficult, mainly just a matter of persistence. If you can operate a ratchet and a floor jack, you can install a lift.

I'm not close to you, but you are welcome to use my garage, it'll be a little tight b/c my son's build is taking the other spot. I have all the tools we'd need, and I've swapped a handful of front and rear springs. As others have said, the prep work is where its at, you need to have everything ready or it will essentially stop work. If you do want to use my garage I'd like to look over your parts list closely so I can recommend something if I don't see it.

That seems about right. I think I went with 4 on my 3.5" lift. You may need new leaf spring center bolts too then to accommodate the thickness of the shim. Yeah, just the back.

If they are not too much, maybe pickup one below 6, 6, and one above 6 and return the ones you don't use.

J.D.

These shim come in 3/8 or 7/16 bolt sizes. I should go with the 3/8 right? Correct me if I'm wrong, I would have to drill the springs if I went 7/8?

The hole size will match your new centering pin diameter

After some soul searching and some research, I decided to go with the following suspension setup. I plan on keeping this the rest of my life so I will be putting some quality parts in it. I'm purchasing the bumpers now to save on shipping.

See any issues with the following setup? I will most likely order the parts Monday unless someone sees something blatantly wrong.

4.5 Suspension System 12: (with U-bolt kit)
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/sy ... System_4in

2 Aluminum Deluxe Body Lift Kit w/ Mounts:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Al ... Body_Lifts

Steel 6 Degree Shims: (3/8 bolt)
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/St ... af_Springs

Rear Rock Blocker Bumper with Tire Rack and Cooler/Gas Can Rack:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Re ... er_Bumpers

Rock Blocker With Pre-run Top Front Bumper:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ro ... er_Bumpers

Love those bumpers. The pictures show that system comes with the Extreme Rear Shock Hoops I would go with a different rear shock system as the Extreme Rear Shock Hoops have to be notched into the body by the rear seat. There are other options like the Cage rear shock mounts, Shock Jock mounts, etc. so you don't have to cut into the body. May wanna contact Battlement Fab to see what he has up his working on before ya order a $2,000+ suspension system.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ex ... sion_parts

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Sh ... sion_parts

I'd go inverted rear shocks. And why the 2" body lift? Just the 4.5 will clear 35s. If you want the body lift I would go 1" integrated from wh. Keep it low center of gravity and cut more for the bigger tires.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Re ... sion_parts

If I am not mistaken wont a WH 5.5 with mildly/normal cut fenders clear 35" tires?
save from messing with the BL.

Also I hope you have an air compressor and a good impact gun, that will help tons on those nasty bolts that dont want to let go, a torch can sometimes be nice.

Do CCB members get any discounts from Wild Horses?