Wish me luck.
I am down for advice if you have any.
Going to have a 203 or is it a 05 behind it to try and save the cost of an adapter for a d20.

hopefully the stick will clear my custom dash mods with the gauges mounted below the stereo, we'll see what happens.
Start the rip and tear this weekend, now that it will be above 30 degree in my garage.

might take a pic or two if things go smooth, lets hope i can get er done before next summer.

Good luck brian.

As for tcase. you want a 205 but if you have a 203 hold onto that sucker for a doubler. The 203 is a full time 4wd case that is large and heavy.

child's play for a guy with your skills

Good luck! Post up if you need a set of hands. I haven't ever swapped a trans and would like to learn how.

I do believe I know a guy who's done this swap.

I will post up if i need extra hands, problem is that alot of my available garage time comes in the late evenings, but I am going t try and do some all day runs just for the sake of getting it done.
Maybe I will set a deadline and force myself to meet it.

Jan 15? just a crack over a month with a couple of holidays, although those arent garage holidays like labor day or something like that.
Maybe worth it though.

Stay tuned

Well, progress is being made.
I didn't really have a plan but figured I would start removing bolt and see what fell off.
Pulled the driver seat,steering wheel, tunnel cover and yanked shifters.(might have some JB fab J shift twin sticks for sale soon)
went underneath pulled front and rear shafts, and started pulling the x case.
realized (with a quick "phone a friend") I couldn't get the case out with the cross member in there so tried to get it out of the way, then realized my exhaust was in the way so I yanked it.

then the x case wanted to go and it separated from the tranny and with the help of gravity it was out.

It would have been a good idea to remove clutch linkage,starter and things of that sort but since I was just going without a plan didnt think of that til they were what was holding me up.
removed then yanked and pulled and whalla the tranny was out.

now for that massive hunk of s ZF 5.
measured for the new hole in the tunnel cover,raised the tranny and no go.
cut a bigger hole and retried 3 more times then I finally cut a BIG hole as it was already bigger than the shifter boot anyhow and will need to build a custom cover.

got the tranny in place enough to know that the shifter isn't going to clear my dash/gauge pod, so I will either build my own custom bent shifter or build a ZF5 gear banger like the NP435's have

So lotsa progress today, side jobs tomorrow so no work but today was very productive.

took a couple pics of the victory.

Just relocate the gauge pod, the shifter should clear the dash, worst case you'll have to heat and bend the stalk coming out of the trans that the shifter mounts to


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If you are going to move the gauge pod, there is a good pic of a simple bracket to reposition the shifter on this page about 1/2 way down.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... 977&page=2

tranny in, 1" BL installed to help with clearance, cross member built, patched up a floorpan while I had things apart, trying to get the large 205 stuffed in but it wants to hit everything, so a notch here and a grind there and it is going but not easy.
Doesn't help that it weighs 700# .
Close to getting it in though and as soon as I can get it mated up I will build a mount for it and then start on the twin stick build.
thinking I can just modify my D-20 JB fab ones to work, we'll see.

Then the big custom will be building a gear banger for the ZF, it will be easier that redoing my dash.
Still might be on track for a Jan 15 time line, at least to drive it up the street.

A "gearbanger" for the ZF is nice, but not really needed. When I did mine, I used the shifter lever for a NP435/T18. You can cut off the bottom, then grind a flat spot for it to bolt to the stub, drill the holes and bolt up like the pics on Gunnis link.

I did that on my original install and believe it's still working fine, that was like 15 years ago, really.


HTH, Joe

I recognize that bronco...

More progress, I really need to take some pictures. I likes to see em and I know others do too. Maybe I will get that done tonight.
Finished getting the 205 in where it needs to be and mated up to the ZF.
Made a labor intensive mount for it but really liked how it came out.
Mounts to the PTO cover on the rearand uses the mounts from the truck the 205 came from.
cut, grind,drill weld, grind then bolted up.
Pics will make more sense so I wont even try to describe it.

Ordering more parts, new 1330/1310 U joints, new SS braided clutch line should be in today so i will start figuring out how to make the master cylinder work.

and a gear banger. It is so tight I can't even get it out of 2/4/R into nuetral with just the short shifter in there.
The short one will actually need to be cut in half.
Pics tonight I promise.

going to rebuild all the seals in the 205 and modify for true twin sticks actuation so stay tuned for that as well.

the 205 is light. Lift a 203. them suckers are freakin heavy!!!!

boooring... where are the pics ;)

Don't cut too much off, or the gear banger won't provide enough leverage to shift the trans, you'll most likely need the majority of the original stub to be present


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Colorado75bronc; I plan to start very minimal and only cut exactly what is needed.
Now for some pictures finally.

here is the dash problem and the need for the gear banger
IMG-20131231-00400.jpg

IMG-20131231-00401.jpg

proof it is actually up in there ZF

IMG-20131231-00402.jpg

ZF cross member
IMG-20131231-00398.jpg

IMG-20131231-00399.jpg

My 1/2 a day bracket to support the transfer case, mounts over the rear bearing cap, took forever but really pleased with it.
started with a square piece of 1/4 " plate. The angle piece is from the 205's original vehicle it came from and how it was mounted,
recycling at its finest.
IMG-20131231-00410.jpg

IMG-20131231-00412.jpg

and mounted up

IMG-20131231-00409.jpg

IMG-20131231-00413.jpg

IMG-20131231-00396.jpg

IMG-20131231-00397.jpg


where the upper bracket mounts I welded the bolts from the aux tank side through the frame so there are just studs to slide the bracket over and no worried about having to get a wrench or nuts or anything between the frame rail and gas tank.

IMG-20131231-00403.jpg

Currently working on the master cylinder install location and lineup with the clutch lever.
My SS braided clutch line should be here by Friday as well as my combo U joints 1330/1310 to go from the x case to my existing drive shafts.
I might get by with my rear driveshaft as it was too short after my lift and I never got it lengthened, but my front will be too short as it was already short and this setup pushes the X case yoke back another 5 inches.

I will modify my J shift twin stick to work with this as JB fabs web site looks like they are really close between the D-20 J shift and the 205 shifters. I could sell these and buy the others but the 205 shifters are pushing 175 shipped over the d-20 ones at 140 that I already own and couldn't get full price for....just cut and weld to fit.

I also have a 205 seal rebuild kit on its way so I may take some pics and do a quick write up on that if anyone is interested.
Never done one but it cant be that hard, oh and I will be modding the shift rails to be a true twin stick front and rear independent while I am in there. Should be fun.

Hopefully Chris is more entertained

Looks good, I'm liking the direction of install indicator on your crossmember :)


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moving along, removed the brake/clutch pedal assembly, steering column and hydroboost system.
the master cylinder is going to be right next to where the edge of my booster bracket is.
Cut a hole for the master, drilled for mounts.

The throw of the master cylinder wasn't enough to reach the pedal so digging through scrap I found a small piece of square tube from when I installed my metal ballusters in my basement (hoarder alert) and used it to lengthen the rod.
Problem is I wanted it adjustable so I found that cutting the rod in half where it goes from small to big allowed me to thread the large side to 3/8 and the small side to 1/4".
Then I welded a nut for each size on the end of the square tube and now have full adjustability.

IMG-20140101-00415.jpg

IMG-20140101-00418.jpg

IMG-20140101-00420.jpg

IMG-20140101-00424.jpg

I think it should work well and allow for pedal adjustment.
next step it to start putting it all back together

Great progress!!

It might be a bit late now; however, I'd seriously suggest doing away with the 1330/1310 cross U-joints. The 1330 is exactly the same size in cross-section as the 1310, but is longer side to side. That means more leverage against it and more likely to fail vs. a 1310 in the same application.

1310 yokes are available for the NP205 and that's a much better way to go. Not to mention, very few places will have a 1330/1310 cross joint when you need one, as evidenced by your need to order them. I can tell you with certainty you cannot find them in stock in Hot Springs, AR, go ahead, ask me how I know....

You would even be better off putting a 1330 yoke on the 9" vs. running cross joints.
Just my $.02
Joe

Be careful about 1330 9" yokes.

Ford used some 1330 series u-joints that had a larger cap on the pinion yoke. Normal 1330 u-joints have 4x 1.062" caps. The odd ball Ford 1330's pinon side used 1.125" caps & 1.062" caps on the driveshaft side.

Read more here: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTM ... p_U-Joints

This pic is what I ended up with (the set up on the right w/the paper clip) from the 79 Bronco I pulled my axles from:
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Ima ... 20copy.jpg

Yep, I have the larger 1330 ford 9" yoke on mine. Luckily the u joint is readily available at any parts place. It's a fill in on mine until I build my 609 & D60 and then I'll step up to a flange setup or big boy yokes.

Kirk is that the yoke I gave you? I had no idea there was any difference. I just bought 1330 3 7/8" u joints. I never had any that didnt fit. But for some reason the yoke on my d44 is only a 1310 and i didnt know it. When I had new drive lines built I spec'd 1330 at all joints. I had to swap to a 1310/1330 combo up front. They were readily available at autozone when I did get them. I did get an extra just in case.

I think its the yoke I gave him from my 79 axles.