So I have 2 hi and 2 low, but no 4wd. It seems like it shifts but no activation of front shaft. What's the deal?

Not sure I have the solution for you, but I did have the same problem a few years ago. There was a set screw that backed out for me. Had to pull the case and buy some harbor freight really long allens :)!

I'm sure the gurus will have a much better answer, but that was my case. Calling Kirk, Viper....and everyone else :)!

Good Luck!

Matt

T shift or j shift?

You must be twin sticked. Make sure your stick for the front is engaging the fork.

Make sure both hubs are engaged.

Both hubs are locked. T shift case. Not twin stick yet.

Body lift?

You've got 2 shift rails that go into the t-case-one for 4wd and one that engages the low range. They're connected by a bar that is linked by a shift rod to the bottom of the shifter (http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/ ... 67-77-used). It sounds like the rail for 4wd isn't engaging. Prior to twin sticking it I had intermittent problems with this. Usually it was resolved by pushing forward on the lever while driving slowly forward. My guess is that something has come loose on the shift linkage. Do you have an access panel that would allow you to see the top of the t-case?

There are new body mount bushings with a 1" lift built in. I do have a panel that I can take off and look at. It does seem the rear s getting into 4 low because I jacked it up and ran it and the rear does seem to go slower aka in 4 low. While it was jacked up the front hubs were engaged and when I spun the front tires by hand the front drive shaft did turn. So it must be in the t case itself right?

That would suggest that the issue is in somewhere on the t-case side of things. Start with the linkage. If nothing else, it'll give you a clear indicator if whether the rail is moving.

Since it is a T shift case it has a 2 low range you can hit right before 4 low. I'm betting that 1" body lift is limiting how far the shifter is moving stopping you right before you hit 4 low.

Good thought, it didn't click for me that the body lift is new.

I am not hitting anything though when I am trying to shift it. I tried to do it without the panel on.

sounds like the shift fork is loose inside the T/case

Atlas

That is correct Justin lol

My birthday is next Wednesday so I hope I see a big box from you Trei.

If I ever win the lottery I will buy everyone on part of there choice; )

New question. How hard and how long would it take to tear apart a Dana 20 tcase and somewhat rebuild it. Don't really have the time or place but maybe can do it hopefully in a day.? Any thoughts.

Yes, it can be done in a day. Do you have a body lift, it makes those two bolts on the top easier to get to.

So I did a little more tinkering and found that my front shift rail is not moving. I can fully shift through 4hi, 2hi, n, and 4l on the rear side but the front never moves. Kind of strange because they are somewhat linked together so you think it would budge. Any quick fix you guys can think of or should I just bite the bullet and twin stick the effing thing.

twin sticks leads me to another question. T style twin sticks seems like you would just move the shifter, disconnect the bar between the two shift rails. and then attach a separate shifter to each rail. Eventually I would like to swap out the rails for the j shift rails and the front output shaft. But just adding the twins should help my problem I think? Right? Second question though is should I get the j shift or t shift twin stick setup for what I am/want to do.

Unfortunately T shift D20s have internal interlock pills. So twin sticks will help it shift but not independently. So, can you manually move the front shift rail if you disconnect the factory shifter?

Haven't tied to independently try to move the front shift rail yet. When I get some more time I will try to independently move it. Need to try to figure this out before the 8th. Some friends are going to Jenny creek and would like to go.

You can take it apart and put it back together in a day easily.

So if the t tcase has an interlock why would it let me completely shift the rear rail all the way from 4 l to 4 hi and the front stays put.

So a couple questions before I dive in to my semi rebuild of my dana 20. 1. Is there any need for specialty tools? I am thinking of painting it while it is apart. 2. Should I use some sort of primer on it before I finish it with regular paint? Or I guess better question is what kind of paint should I use? 3. Will there be a need for anything to be "pressed" out of the housing or off the shafts?

Will probably start sometime this week so I can hopefully have it functioning before the july breakfast/wheeling event.

Bobby

Got it all apart. Now the question is how do you put all the bearing pins back Into the intermediate shaft without having them all fall out?

Grease does a pretty decent job of holding them in place.