Let rephrase, I meant the rollers in the idler shaft.

Ah! Gotcha.

I guess the same could work for both. This one would be a little more tricky though.

On another note, How do you get the rear output shaft out of the case. Is there a c-clip that needs to come out, slide some of the gears out and then pull the rest out? Need to get it pulled out so I can replace what is needed and put it back together. Thanks for all your help.

Rear output is just 5 bolts.

Some of the gears just slide off in order to get the shaft pulled out?

Okay, I was talking about the wrong shaft. I meant the front shaft. That's the bad thing of having the computer at one house and the truck at another. Do you hve to take the flange yoke off. I tried bit that booger is on there and I am almost rounding off the nut. Any tricks up anybodies sleeve they can shout out to me.

thanks.

Yes, the yoke has to come off and if it's a T style case there is a snap ring up against the case inside of the 1st gear.

All right, now am I correct that it takes a thin wall 1 1/8 socket for that stupid nut. I have the edges almost rounded off and don't want to do any more damage.

Why 20? Is it because they only do mass buys?

Bulk packaging.

My local Fastenal opens their bulk package for me and I grab a couple nuts. I just have to make sure I'm wearing my skinny jeans when I go in.

Gym teachers

Okay everything is disassembled. Now my next question before putting it back together. There are 2 detent rods in between the shift rails. Since I am going to J shift rails do I only need one? And if I only need the one which hole do I put it in? The one where I can push it all the way through or the hole that it can only go in the one way.

One more
Question for the maestro. I know you paint your housings, how do you do it and what kind of paint? Do you primer it then paint over, or just paint it?

Don't worry I won't copy your signature colors

I use high heat engine enamel. Primer first. I find it easier to paint everything before assembly. Then you just gotta be careful with it.

Anybody know a part number for the bearing that is pressed on to the front input shaft I
Of the t case. Looking to get one from napa, autozone, blah blah blah. Waiting to hear back from the hut so we all know that could be a few days if at all.

Seals:
Input shaft seal (double lip)-CR #517383,Napa #NOS 18676, CR #18676 (good seal) (Do not use Timken #473179)
Output shaft seals-Timken #450185
Shift rail seals-CR #6204, Timken #471466
Yoke o-ring-1-1/4"OD x 1-1/8"ID x 1/16". Danco happened to be the brand at the hardware store and it is their #29.
Speedi-sleeve for yokes-SKF99155

Bearings:
Input- SKF #307NRJ
Rear output-Timken #25877 (inner), Timken #15117 (outer)
Front output, J shift-Timken #14116
Front output, T shift-Timken #14131

Cups:
Rear output-Timken #25821 (inner), Timken #15245 (outer)
Front output-Timken #14276 (both T and J)

Yoke nuts: 3/4", 16 tpi, top lock

When setting the rear output endplay use a Timken #15118 in the rear position. It is the same size as the #15117 except the inner bore is a couple thousandths larger. This allows you to assemble and disassemble the output shaft without needing a press. Only use it as a setup bearing. Once the correct endplay is set, drop in the #15117 bearing, put the seal on and assemble the shaft.

Since I'm using a front output shaft from a j shift I should use the appropriate bearing.

I have an extra peice and I don't know where it goes? Here is a pic

Cool, then I won't worry about it then.

Cool almost finally finished. Looks like it wouldn't shift because it was pretty gummed up inside plus the bushings were so worn the linkage was hitting the crossmember and binding up. Just need to finalize some little things then ready to rock and roll.