Yup... What land shark said^^^^

Made a trip to the pull n pay this morning and made it out with quite a few things that I was looking for and then some. I think my Explorer front dress is pretty close to complete. I am going to swap in the saginaw pump instead of the explorer ps pump so I still need to source (buy) the bracket for that. I was also able to get most of the remaining parts I needed for the EFI upgrade. A couple of Chrysler coil packs, O2 sensor completed the needs for the wiring harness. I also grabbed a couple electric pusher fans from a Disco (there were at least two more complete sets at the Denver Pull n Pay if anyone is looking.)

So here are a couple questions I have:

I am going to be running the stock Bronco radiator with the 5.0 serpentine set-up. Rox Crusher-- do you have the part numbers of the upper and lower radiator hoses you used? Also-- I saw the upper in your rig-- do you have a picture of how the lower looks?

Does someone have the part numbers for the high pressure PS hoses I need to convert to the Saginaw? I have the stock PS pump now.

Should I get the fuel injectors checked and "re-built?" I saw in our vendor section a write-up for someone that does them for like $11 apiece. Worth doing or is it unnecessary?

I was thinking of changing all of the bearings on the pulleys in the front dress. The tech article from CB had one part number that Advanced Auto carries for like $4 each. Any opinions on whether that is necessary?

The last thing that I do not have is the air hose and air box. What I am a little confused is whether I need the MAF sensor or not. Does the throttle body have the MAF sensor on it or is it part of the "air breather set-up." I am more than likely going to try to source a box from an Explorer and then I guess just buy an air tube and filter. Any input or suggestions? Like I said-- this is probably the most confusing thing to me right now.

I am also going to need to get the accumilator and high pressure fuel pump as well as change my fuel lines to high pressure fuel lines. Any good recommendations on pumps and/or fuel lines? Hard or braided lines? I bought an entire set from the Hut last year and it DID NOT fit my frame as I expected (was told). I ended up hacking it and piecing it with pieces of rubber line and would rather not spend another pretty penny on hard lines just to have to cut it up.

The plan is coming together and my bank account is feeling it!

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

Try and grab the air box and MAF sensor from one of the later Explorers (99-01). Get a 6 wire MAF instead of 4 if you can, and grab the pigtail with it. Write down the PCM code of the PCM that you took it from. If the PCM is missing it should have a sticker next to it. The code will probably be something like EQE3 or EQE4.

MUST be from a V-8.

I've got a bending tool that you're welcome to borrow. It's HF junk, but works fine. You're also welcome to take a look at the lines I bent up for mine. I've got a single flaring tool as well. Some auto parts stores carry rolls of tubing in stock, so if you call around you can find one in the $35-$40 range.

If you are going to buy a bender, make sure to get one that goes 180*. I have a 90* one, but when you need to do 180*, there is no substitute. And they aren't any/much more expensive.

Like this one. Not a recommendation, just the first google result.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-tub ... fgodyI4AQQ

Thanks for the suggestions. Chris- I'd love to borrow your tools when I get to that point.

So the machine shop gave me a suggestion on some solvent to use to clean up the engine prior to paint but I can't remember what he suggested. He warned me against anything remotely flammable like diesel or kerosene. Does anyone know what I should use to clean up the engine to have it ready for paint? I'm hoping to get the cleaning done tomorrow. May even start assembly if I get too motivated.

Let me know when you do your fuel lines. I bought a hydraulic flaring tool for doing mine. It can do GM fuel lines, metric bubble, push-connect flares, as well as 45° single and double flares.

I am planning on putting a lot of work into this starting this weekend and extending into next week. Thursday night is about the only time I probably won't be working on it but if anyone is interested in helping or getting involved, let me know when you would like to come by. I will probably try to get assembly done by Monday/Tuesday night and then will need to run new fuel lines and power steering lines. Once I have that accomplished- install will begin and EFI wiring installed.

Like I said-- let me know if you have time and desire to help or would like to learn as I am. Schedule is flexible and any organized times would just be further motivation to get out and work on it!

Installed the Crank and camshaft, timing chain and gears, and thrust plate. Got all of the piston bearings installed and called it a day. Need to get a piston installer.

Had one minor setback with a thrust plate bolt sheering clean off. It only takes 10 lbs of torque and it must have just been an old soft bolt. It fortunately came out with a little drilling and broken bolt set.

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Sweet. I'm sure I have a ring compressor around here somewhere that you can borrow. Give me a ring and you can get it and your freshly completed harness at the same time.

I think the torque on those bolts is only 8-9 ft-lbs. Use locktite.

Piston install question. How tight should it be and how difficult to knock in to the block? I've done one and stopped because I'm not sure how well I did.

I feel like the front is tighter than the back?
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Should be nice and tight. Did you put just a ring in (usually the top compression ring) and measure the gap with a feeler gauge? I can't remember the exact gap, it should be in your book, maybe 0.010.

Scott at the engine shop checked all of the rings for me at his shop. I've tightens down the rod with bearings to the crank journal and I'm having a hard time rotating the crank into position for the next piston.

Are the crankshaft bearings in their correct position? They are keyed to go in one way & I believe the thrust bearing position is the middle cap.

Is the notch in the piston towards the front of the engine? Did you oil the crap out of it before install? Did you stagger the piston ring end gaps? Have you used plastigauge to check your bearing clearances yet?

Yah- so it ended up being a bent ring where the oil waffled ring is at. I removed it to check and will now have to get a new ring for that piston.

EFI guy- I did everything you asked but the plastigauge thing.

The other 7 installed a lot more smoothly!

You should be using copious amounts of assembly lube in your bearings too.