All --

I wanted to ask the masses if anyone knows of someone that sells what I need to connect the upper steering column / shaft with a lower collapsable shaft. Before you all jump in there and say GET A RAG JOINT DUMMY -- :-) -- the issue that I have is that both the upper column / shaft that comes through the firewall and the lower shaft that comes out of the box have the hard metal flanges attached to them. I will try and post a picture later today. (Thanks in advance to Zach and Corey for the assist so far.)

Thoughts?

Pic will help. Without knowing what you've got its tough to suggest something.

Without seeing a pic it is common for both ends of the shafts to have flanges, one flange will have the cutouts for the "pins" and the other will have the bolt holes for the pins, then at least one more set of holes for the rag joint to bolt to.

Here's a really bad pic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-6VJSzaojI&app=desktop

I used this on my Lower steering shaft, cut off the stock rag, and did the grinding right on the truck!

My application was for a new 4x4x2 box.
Oh yeah...measure several times 1st!!!

As you can see in the pics above, both the upper end of the lower steering shaft and the lower end of the upper steering shaft have rag joint flanges press fit on to them.

Is there a rag joint that can bridge the two? The stock Bronco rag joint that came off of the truck has the standard pin and bolt configuration on one side and a spline and collar on the other. Similar to what you see below.

What we have here is an early column (73-75) and a late lower shaft (76-77). For some reason Ford swapped the flanges in 76. I would get rid of the rag joint and use a u joint.

U-Joint? How would that work?

When you knock the flanges off, it should be a 3/4" 36 spline shaft under there on both ends. I scrapped the lower shaft all together and replaced it with 3/4" Double D shaft for the lower section. In my experience, two new u joints in the steering shaft can remove a fair amount of "Slop" from your steering so its money well spent. The U joints sold by most of the vendors are polished stainless steel from Flaming River. If you want to save a few dollars, look around the internet and you can find some with a little less "Bling Factor" that will save some money.

Example for discussion.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Fl ... oke_FR1700

I'd agree with doing away with the rag joints and replacing with u-joint(s). I got mine from BCB and it did take some of the slop out of my steering.

Those u joints are nice, if you go the double D route be very careful making the cuts on the shaft.

You mean measuring twice or three times before you cut or something else more sinister? :-)

If you've got one of the later lower shafts I'd keep it and swap out the rag joint as per conversation above. The collapsible lower shaft is a pretty major safety feature in event of a front end collision. Having 2 joints helps, but you've still pretty much got a big steel spear aimed at your sternum.

A worn collapsable shaft can also cause slop in your steering. If you use a junkyard shaft, make sure you pull it out a little longer or collapse it a little from its original configuration. By doing that you change the contact points between the two halves of the shaft and it will be a little tighter ( If that makes any sense ) . I'm not in the " Use a collapsable shaft " camp myself. I ran one for a while but removing it in favor of two U joints and a double D shaft ( Ultra cheap from summit ) made the steering A LOT tighter. In my opinion the tight steering far outweighs the benefits of the collapsable shaft ( Unless you are buying a brand new unworn shaft ). I think you would be hard pressed to get speared by a steering shaft with Two U joints in it. Now, the early shafts like the one that was in my 66 were one solid shaft from the steering box to the steering wheel.....That made me nervous so it got cut in two places and also got two U joints.

I have a hard time believing that an accident capable of dislodging a steering shaft and shoving it three feet back and through my sternum wouldn't have killed me in some other gruesome way. I, personally, think this is a bit like the mass paranoia that seems to exist regarding people "just stealing Broncos and putting a new glove box door in". If it were such a problem, I'd think we'd have heard of at least one incident in which it had happened.

I'm beginning to think that steering shaft impalement is a bit like the Ebola pandemic ravaging our country. (Frau Castle 2014)

/rant

Jeremy, fair point. The lower shaft in mine is in really good shape, but I replaced the lower part. Its got a spring in it, which I would imagine helps but wouldn't fix a sloppy fit. Zach, you may well be right, but they didn't put it in for giggles. You might not walk away, but having been through a couple of totaled cars I'll take any advantage I can get.

5 years here and people still can't spell my name right. in my Rodney Dangerfield voice

Wouldn't a new rag joint get you the half of the joint that you are missing? I believe the non flanged side is attached to the rag joint so if you went that route you would just have to knock off one of the existing flanges you currently have and you may have to notch the shaft for the retaining bolt. Wild Horses has the rag joint listed but its not a hell of a lot cheaper than the U joint. Additionally, we have used the term Double D at least a half a dozen times and there has not been a single inappropriate comment made. I don't know if that speaks to our moral character or if we are just getting old.

-k

Keep laughing. I'm gonna go pee on your lawn mower.