Ok so I'll start a new thread. Looking to build a set of extended radius arms. So just getting ideas on how to improve this design if it's even possible.

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/show ... =lars+bars


Is 2"od 1/4" wall DOM enough? And what joints to run at the frame? Heim? Johnny joint? Duroflex? What about Ideal length? The arms on my 79 are 15" longer than stock. Is that overkill?

Curve in bar up front? More tire clearance?

Double tube?

My extended arm circa 2006:


Axle center to joint center was 52", but these were on my Ranger with 125" of wheelbase. Similar to the Lars Bars, but I rotated the lower shock mount 90 degrees because the shock saw more deflection in articulation vs normal jounce and rebound.


I would not put in a bend in the arm for tire clearance unless it is necessary. Bends severly comprimise the compressive strength of the arm.

If you're not extending too much, 2"x.25"DOM is adequate. I would think you'd still be fine even with a slight bend in them. I didn't bend mine, but instead built my own mounts off the inside of the frame, so I gained some turning radius while keeping the links straight. I also used this joint at the frame which allows some adjustment:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/For ... _2012.html

Folks could use a rubber bushing instead of the Ballistic Joint if they are more concerned with road manners as opposed to flex. This would allow you to build them all the same and guys could source their own joints.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Bal ... _1646.html

Mine is an upper and lower link (Y-link?), allowing caster adjustment, but you could still use the c-bushings for that with your setup. I would think a twin tube complicates the design. Stronger, but possibly unnecessarily so.

Also, it might be a headache, but instead of trimming out the web in the factory arm, wouldn't it be better to slot the DOM? That could be more of a hassle, but it'd be stronger. Cut the factory arm off where the web is 2 1/8" tall, sandwich it between the slot in the DOM and weld it together.

With a nice flexible joint at the frame, you wouldn't have to extend the arms much to gain tons of flex.

Here's what I did on my 79. They are HEAVY!!!! Always wanted to cut off the stud on the frame side and put a JJ on there. They atarted with an extension of 15" over stock. Then fully boxed with 3x3x1/4" angle iron cut to fit. Fully welded. They work great the way they are but always figured a Johnny Joint or heim on the end would be the cats meow.











Im just wanting to try something a little different and really like the duff arms just im too cheap to spend 700+ for a set.


Im betting we can get a club discount on the xAxis joints and buy some bulk 2" 250 dom. Im ready to build a set after the first of the year.

How about square tubing? I believe WH has there arms built like this.

I am paying very close attention to this thread, trying to learn all I can. I will be building 2-3 sets over the next few years including the first set to install on Wilma as soon as we have this build day.

We can find dom locally no problem. Im open for dates in both Januaryand February. With a jig we can do multiple sets no problem, and bent arms won't add much time.

I can talk to vendors about s deal on brackets as well.

I'll check with Hinton for the DOM, I get a fair deal if they have it in stock.

I've got a JD2 w/ 2" dies, it'll bend it. We can bolt it to Justin's floor as long as he doesn't mind 4 lags in his concrete.

Edit: I've got a call into Hinton for tube pricing.

Kirk, I don't mind putting lugs in my garage floor, but I'm not sure that thing is rated for .25 wall. It's a model 3, right?

Hmmm I'll need to check. I know the guy that owned it before me bent .25 wall but it may not be rated for it.

I wouldn't try to bend .25" wall in that bender. I've seen a quite a few break trying it. For the 6°-10° bend in a radius arm the harbor freight pipe bender of mine that Justin has is perfectly fine. I've bent 1.5" od .25" wall DOM, 1.75" od .25" wall DOM and 2" od .25" wall DOM more than 20° without visible deformation of the bend radius. Plus it was $80 so if something happens to the bender it's of no concern at all.

Cool, that sounds like the best plan.

Well if lags in the floor are required, I will supply them and the hammer drill to install them

I've got both here. Thanks, though!

If there is going to be a bend in the I'd prefer it to be at the front like the square tube ones I posted for tire clearance. But ones that dont have a bend are stronger. Now granted for me Im not wheelin my bronco really hard but dont want a radius arm to fold up on me.

Okay guys, I need an idea of how many xAxis joints we would be purchasing as a group to determine an exact discount. Please reply with how many you would be interested in. I will reply to you via IM when I have pricing.

Right now we are looking at this model:



SPECS:

Stud: 1"-14 Right Hand thread
Through Bolt: 9/16" (14mm)
Joint Width: 2.625"
Joint Articulation: 45 degrees
Receiver Material: Heat treated forged alloy steel
Finish: OE grade E-coat
Joint features fully sealed EPDM rubber boots, moly-impregnated Nylon 6/6 race, electroless nickel coated inner ball and is lubed with heavy duty moly fortifed chassis grease. The boots are replaceable if damaged and the joint cartridge can be replaced when worn out by removing retaining ring and pressing the joint out.

Honestly, this joint should not need replacement for many years/miles. It is designed like an OE joint which is intended to be service free for 100K-150K miles.

Pricing:

Currently equilvant units like Johnny Joints to Ballistic joints are retailing for $45-$60 each. We should be able to come in at the bottom of that range for price, maybe lower depending on quanity. I couldn't get an exact number out of sales without a quanity. The big thing to remember is that you're buying a better quality joint with greater articulation for a price on par or lower than other options out there.

If you have any questions, feel free to IM me or reply here

CURRENT COUNT:

Total: 12-14x
Justin 2x (may need RH/LH)
ZOSO 2x
JGZ 2-4x
Kinder 2x (need to confirm size)
Landshark 2x (need to confirm size)
Eck 2x (tentative)

I'll take two. I'll need to drop my radius arms to confirm, but I may need one LH and one RH. Frankly, I may be interested whether we do a group buy or not. Those look sweet.

I'd need a pair.

Phil, Mike, Jeff what about you guy's?

Jeremy, I know you have a few extra set's you want to build long arms out of.