I'm going to sound like a total amateur right now. That's because I am. I don't have the mechanical confidence or know-how as most of you.

But for months I've been hearing a clank-clank-clank coming from the front passenger wheel. After trying *unsuccessfully to diagnose myself, I finally just brought it in to a local shop here in Littleton.

The news is that there's a u-Joint at the wheel that's loose. Cost to fix: $400.

Is there anyone out there in Colorado Classic Broncos who might be willing to do it cheaper? I don't have a u-joint press and even if I did, I wouldn't know where to begin.

Thought I'd throw that out there. Also, I'd love to tag along and watch and maybe learn something in the process.

Thanks!

Bring it over. That's an easy project, and a u joint will set you back $20 for a good Spicer one. It's easy, and you can learn how to service your wheel bearings at the same time.

Also check the spindle bearing while your in there.

Thanks so much, Justin!!! I'll shoot you a PM to coordinate a date tht we can try to do this. Thanks again - really appreciate it.

400 is robbery!

Have to love book rate.

Who is looking to charge 400 for a u-joint replacement? I think anyone in/around the Littleton area would like to know where is shop is so they can avoid it.

Not that I understand it, but anytime the labor book says you pull the spindle the price seems to go way up.

still not as bad as my attorney at $400 per hr but that's what the driveway is for.

Could we disassemble your attorney ourselves? Not sure if there's a Chilton's manual for lawyers.

They are called Encore Automotive on 8th and Federal.

Three of those U-joint jobs and you would be in the price neighborhood of RCV shafts.

Thanks to Justin for his incredible generosity! We swapped out a U-Joint, but then quickly discovered some serious brake issues! I had to leave for a photoshoot (I'm a photographer), but he kept cranking away on my ride, because he cared incredibly about the safety of my rig, even made a trip to the parts store while I was gone. I'm amazed. Brakes are working better than ever now, rattle SEEMS to be gone, I learned a TON, and we're going to do a few more things in the future. A real class-act and I'm very grateful! Thanks again, Justin! You are the man!

Justin is the man!

Very welcome! The club has given plenty to me, just glad to have the chance to give back. Hopefully we got the issues solved!

Well dang. The clank-clank-clank is still there. I guess it was not the u-joint, although I'm still glad to have replaced that (thanks again, Justin!).

We looked at the brakes and it does not seem to be anything with the brakes.

The clank sound gets slower as the car slows down, and faster as it goes faster. Any other ideas of what this could be from? Transfer case?

In my experience sometimes the acoustics can be tricky for tracing down noise in cars and trucks.
Sometimes the sound isn't coming from where it seems to be.

A clanking that slows when the vehicle slows and speeds up when the vehicle speeds up makes me think driveshaft u-joint.

Put it on jackstands, pull the rear driveshaft. Then see if it makes the noise. Also, maybe you can hear the noise better/find the source easier under the truck, instead of inside.

I finally put the front end up on jackstands. I finally isolated the source of the clicking. It is, with no doubt, coming from the passenger side brake. It's a front disk conversion. The clank is obvious and occurs at the same point in every rotation.

But I'm still unsure how to fix. Any ideas?

Thanks

Chevy discs?

They make some sticky stuff you apply to the BACK side of the pads to keep them in place inside the calipers. Clean both surfaces well before applying and make sure all springs are in place.

I will say I didn't have good luck with the sticky spray but I didn't have the springs either.

Make sure that the caliper is staying pressurized. I had a similar problem a few years ago and the caliper wasn't holding pressure, it was releasing and retracting almost all the way back into the housing causing the pads to rattle around. I ended up replacing both calipers and that stopped the problem. If this is your problem, you might even be able to get a rebuild kit for them and save the money on buying re-mans.