I'm about to get started replacing the floor boards, inner/outer rocker panels, kick panels and door posts. I thought I was going to only need to do the floor boards on the passenger side but further investigation revealed that both sides need the same work.

Which side would you start with? I'm leaning towards the passenger side so if I screw up, I don't have to look at it as much. :)

I really have no idea what I'm doing here but that's been the story of my life with the Bronco and I've held my own, with many of the years coming before the advent of forums like this. I figure this will be no different. I know when I post pics, you guys will be able to give me helpful tips so thank you in advance!

I'm thinking the pre-operation pictures will start tomorrow and then deconstruction will start by removal of everything that will be in the way.

This is a tricky, involved process. You are removing a huge part of the structure of the body, and getting the doors, fenders, quarters all lined back up can be tough. If these parts are put back in slightly the wrong place, getting things aligned again can be real tough, if not impossible.

Take a very good look at how your doors, quarter panels, top, windshield, even how your hood, grill & fenders line up now. The alignment of the front clip & core support can affect the door openings. My truck was wrecked by the PO, and the damaged core support helped pull the front of the passenger door forward, screwing up the door gaps. Are the body gaps even and square, or are some tapered and need adjusted? Getting the "big picture" will help you make some adjustments before or during the repair process.

If things are good, or very close, I'd take measurements, and weld bracing across the door openings.

If things aren't good now, look at the condition of the body mounts & support channels. Many under the driver's & passenger's feet are crushed, rotten, or bent. I'd do my best to fix these things and get the doors straight & things braced before tearing things apart.

Here is good video showing how adjusting the front floor body mounts can affect the door fit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPllujn9XXk

Some measurements to see if you are close now

bronco body measurements.jpg

This really shouldn't be an issue, but know the tub tapers in from the bottom of the doors to the top. I don't know how to explain but, A=56.25", B=57.25". This is true of the same measurements across the rear door opening at the top & at the floor.

A=56.25 B= 57.25.jpg

This would be more likely to be a problem across the rear of the door opening, since the bed can sag, outside the body mounts. The front/cowl would have to be pretty bad to change those measurements. But it will affect how your doors fit if the back of truck is sagged "out". Mine had sagged so much that A & B were the same 57.25".

Plan on putting everything on with sheet metal screws and check door alignment 100% before welding anything up. You'll be sick of fitting the doors before this is all over.

Plan, plan, plan, and then start over and plan some more. Everything Gunni has said will help. Hopefully you have a good starting point and can take measurements and all you're doing is replacing rust and not improving upon wrecked metal.

I did everything you are planning on doing and didn't get the door pillars installed perfectly. If you have a hard top, leave it on as it will help the windshield and cowl from sagging. Probably the easiest thing to start with would be floor pans.

Good luck!

What they said. Start with the floor pans. I replaced parts starting at the trans tunnel and moving outward. This gave me good metal to build off of, but you have to make sure everything is aligned well or it compounds your errors. I'd also do one door post at a time, and hold them in with screws so that if one is way off you're not drilling out spot welds to get it corrected.

Thanks! Gunni, I had the first image and was going to write down my measurements next to those. The second image is very helpful as well.

If I had to guess, this thing is far from square. It does have a hard top. I put this rig on its roof back in '95. In addition, in 94 or 95, I put the fan through the radiator and collapsed the core support (it actually collapsed at the point where the kick panel meets the inner fender).

I know the top of the bed rails are splayed out. You can see it at the tailgate.

On the passenger side, the upper lip of the inner rocker that the floor pan slips under is there. On the drivers side, it's all rusted out. I agree with starting with the floor pans and that was my plan. That said, I think I need to remove the inner/outer rockers to properly do that with the amount of rust, at least on the drivers side.

I've attached the initial pictures of the drivers side floor pan.

I'm going to spend today getting things better documented and taking pictures. I'm also going to start pulling the seats and carpet completely out so I can really assess the damage.

I have the Wild Horses 1" body lift to install. That is what started this. I know I need to get that going so that when I add in the new metal, everything is sitting on a good platform.

I'm figuring that I'll put a brace between the bed rails right behind the front seats, then attach to that to go to the dash. I agree that only doing one door post at a time is the right way. Once I get everything braced and apart, I'll better be able to tell what pieces need to be replaced in addition to what I listed. I have a feeling, there will be more (Project Downward spiral). I can even see getting to the point where the entire front sheet metal is gone and it's easier to do the engine swap at that point. :)

Thanks for the advice. I need to make time to do a build thread and document the journey up there.

My truck was put on its side by the PO, and maybe more. Our trucks sound similar. My kick panels weren't bad, but much of the right door pillar was just cut away.

I hate to say it, but you really will have to address the front clip geometry. Measure diagonally across your hood opening (right rear fender bolt hole to left front fender bolt hole), each way. You should try to get it square. I cut my whole clip loose from the cowl, and it was surprising how easily the door opening was corrected. If you cut the front off the truck, brace the cowl & door openings A LOT. The cowl will move very easily. I'd take the hood off too, just to remove the weight from the cowl.

I'd consider scraping the front clip if its damaged, and/or rusty (likely at the top of the cowl). If its anything like mine, fixing wasn't a realistic option. Building a new one has been a challenge, that has taken more time that expected (I should have expected that).

You can borrow my down jacket that has welding burns pre-installed from when I did this project.

Haha. Every time I put on my cover alls lately, I wish for summer to go away. But I know that's a lie. Time to get started.

My recommendation that hasn't been mentioned is "leave your hardtop on and windshield bolted to it. When you cut out the kick panels this will help support the weight and air the A pillar (door) easier to place. Make sure your tacks are sufficient to hold 30 lb door shell. My $.02, don't get to worried about precision. The reason their is such a huge variance on measurements is cause they aren't hand built lambo/ Ferrari or GTR.... It's a Bronco. Have fun! Everyone should do this at least once, that way they know/ understand they never want to do it again!

Got to spend around 3 hours ripping the interior out of the Bronco. A few more surprises but nothing terrible. I thought I only needed the front part of the passenger side floorboards but it looks like I need to go all the way back. There is one spot right behind the drivers seat where the bed meets up that is rotted but it's small and can probably just be patched. The bed is in great shape. It had the rubber floor mat under the carpet and was intact.

I took the measurement of the engine bay (rear fender bolt to the other sides front fender bolt) and was off by a 1/2". Not as bad as I would have thought.

I was surprised by how much wire was under the carpet for the stereo. Makes me remember, it had a pretty kicking stereo that I will need to re-do. I put a pic of the wires I pulled out just for grins.

The drivers side rocker got sat on a rock on French Creek at Holy Cross. The Passenger side (including a part of the rear quarter), got sat on a rock on the Carnage Canyon near Boulder. I made it to the top of both trails.

The body work is not going to be fun. It requires patience which my kids regularly remind me that I don't have but this is something I've wanted to do/learn. I don't think I will ever be one of those guys who builds a car and flips it just cause they like the build, but this is doing a great job acting as a stress reliever for the day gig.

Here are some more pics just cause.

Lol , sorry Eck... I have a tendency to skip read. It's what happens when you deal with a lot of emails during work.

lf you leave all the glass in place while welding,and grinding, l suggest covering it up to protect it from the sparks.. if you don't they'll pit the glass ,and make a mess of things.

Yes. Protect the glass. Ask me how I know.

What do you guys recommend to protect the glass? Tape some cardboard up over it? Or get something like a welding blanket?

3m makes something called welding spark deflection paper, sounds like just what you'd need.

Huh, that's really cool stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Welding-Spark- ... B000PENDAK

Cardboard probable works as well. It won't stop welding spatter as effectively, but it'll do fine with grinding sparks. You can throw a welding blanket over anything that needs protection while welding.

Oh yeah,

While you are doing your body mounts, try to pull the front end square. With the front mounts loose, put a ratchet strap or other device on the core support & try to pull it back. Over pull it if possible, it will always rebound a little. If it won't stay and keeps bouncing back, leave the pressure over night, or longer. Come-a-longs, port-a-powers, or monkey sticks can help do the job too. You might be elongating/grinding some bolt holes to get things to fit after the pull.

Monkey stick:
http://www.tooltopia.com/keysco-tools-7 ... aQodlQUAQA

Ok, I'm curious if anyone has used the Bronco Hut's sheetmetal and what you thought of it. They are cheaper and no shipping. Would love to be able to go down, pick up the floor pans, then go back and get the next pieces. If I buy from WH, I'll buy everything at once but that's alot more money plus the shipping.

Their parts are likely produced by the same folks who produce all the repop parts. Call both suppliers and ask them where they source their parts.

Wild Horses sources their own. It's 16ga. Bronco Hut's is 18. I ordered them from the Hut today. I'll post up how it fits. I think my work is the wild card here versus the panels. Fingers crossed.

I'm helping a club member with his floor pans at the moment. The bronco hut parts fit well and look like decent quality overall. I used wools horses on mine, and while I like the thicker metal, I'd probably save the shipping and use the hut's parts in the future.