Light duty, small bearing has 10" inside diameter drums. Medium duty ('74-'75 only), large bearing also has small drum. Heavy duty large bearing has 11" inside diameter drum.

Ya 10"

Got my Marti report.. nothing earth shattering.



And this is the tailgate i currently have, the center section has been replaced with a flat non embossed section. i want to go back to stock so if anyone has a stock tailgate let me know.

there isn't really much rust on this, that bare spot is the bondo/paint that has fallen off.. not a hole.

So I guess these CB/Shortwave radios were gold back in the day. .this is what I spent the better part of 3 hours taking out of the 72 yesterday…

CB Mounted under the dash… lost keys to the two pad locks holding the CB chastity belt in place



After the cut off wheel… two pad locks cut off



chastity belt removed



CB dismounted from bullet proof case… now please notice that there are two bolts holding the metal case in place.. and an old switch that used to be wired into the alarm system…





What I didn’t show you were the welds.. yes they welded the entire contraption to the dash..

So i guess i am rich now that i have removed that CB right? - holy cow…

Made some progress finally, got both lower rear quarter panels off without too much trouble, found a bit of rust on the driver side belt line and a few other places. Some fellow bronco enthusiants came over today and helped me remove the hard top and roll cage which will make the repairs allot easier without. I have a few other places i will need to patch but nothing major. I will probably wait on the floor pans until a later date and just cover the floor with the vinyl kit that i ahve been hanging onto.





found this when I flipped the windshield down to replace the dash

So....you going to the happy hour? It appears to be in the 'Springs.

Good progress too!

A bit far for happy hour but maybe next time

Been busy doing sheet metal patching on the spots that need it for drivability and weather proofing. Resisted the urge to tear off the kick panels and floor boards. They can wait until next year. This is my first time doing sheet metal repairs and luckily most of it is hidden. Lots of butt welding.

Patched and rebuilt the driver side cowl both the lower support and the top and cut out as much rot as I needed to make it last. Hopefully once I get some seam sealer, body mud and primer/paint on it you won't really be able to tell I patched it.





Also patched the inner fender since I was there and the front corner where the inner fender and radiator support meet/sandwich.





Finishing the rear quarter belt line patching as well





Hopefully have patching done next week and start to install the quarters.

I was looking at your tailgate picture, It looks as if they just welded in a flat "cover" sheet over the valley that is suppose to be there. Is that possible? They just went flush from side to side in the middle of the tailgate covering up the F O R D on the Right and covering the license plate stuff on the Left?

I'll bet you could just cut it right back off!?!?!?

Nah they cut it out and replaced that side. I picked up another tailgate just needs the bottom patched. Will be getting rid of the other one doon

Made some more progress. Got primer on the cowl after a little skim coat. It's not perfect but will do for now. Also started to patched the rear door post, made a new striker bracket on the post and started welding all the random holes in the rear of the tub. Old roll cage holes are the toughest but used aluminum plate as a backer to help burn through issues. Hopefully grind the welds and start fitting the rear quarters this week.

Headliner is gone. I could never get rid of the sleeze. It's a part of the bronco

Making progress.. still haven't tackled the rear quarters as i have been putting it off - only thing i have left really to get this thing on the road. Maybe start on them this week...

rebuilt the carb and put the 76 air cleaner on - was in much better shape. Glad I kept my parts as Iam using parts that I replaced or never re-used from my 76...



had to replace the master cylinder as the only one was dry and rusted in one of the reservoirs .



Pretty much replaced most fo the soft brake lines, waiting for the rear axle line as the add-a-leaf made the stock one way too short.



started to put the lenses and other stuff on - again glad i kept the old parts from the other two broncos :)

Not a very exciting update - made some more progress, added the add-a-leaf to raise the rear up a bit. Luckily had plenty of left over parts for the center pin and other stuff.

Finished the brakes - just need to bleed them

Re-installed the fuel tank, ran the new body harness I made and fuel lines. It's great iam finding all the extra crap i have hanging on my walls from my past builds and finally putting allot of it useful!



I cleaned/primed and painted the inside of the rear fender/quarter panel as its much easier to get to now.

I have the drivers side rear quarter in place, drilled holes all the way around and started to put sheet metal screws across the beltline to draw in the top.I just need to find a way to get a few more screws in the ends - not able to reach up there wih the drill or impact I have.. .super extension is no help.





hopefully i will ahve the driver side welded in and the gas hole cut this week. Not sure what i will do for the running light. I might leave it off until i make up my mind.

Its tough to take pics in my little garge but hopefully will have a few more later this week.

How will you get the upper seam of the rear quarter to match the curve of the door ?

The top of the quarter, where it attaches to the upper, has a pronounced curve to it........much like the door.

I was wondering how to recreate that curve when installing the new lower quarters.

Here are some more pictures, with the fender pre-mounted. I haven't burned it in yet waiting on a tool off amazon...



a bit of a gap toward the top there.. guess it means seam sealer and filler?



overall the fitment is pretty good, bottom of the door.. not so much!

Looks good.

I'd just seam seal the quarter/tail light gap. You'll be surprised. Viper's was worse, but after seam sealer it really disappeared. Filler will just crack out.

Use masking tape on each side of the seam & use an acid/flux brush & lacquer thinner or water (test each to see which one works with the seam sealer you have) to smooth it out. Then strip the masking tape before it starts to set up. You'll get a nice tight, clean result.

Here is a pic of when I was taping Viper's quarter & door opening for sealer. Hopefully this gives you a clearer idea of what I'm trying to describe.

How does the top of the door fit with the hard top/windshield frame?

If you can tip the bottom of the door in, you'll match the quarter & rocker better, but it will tip the top of the door out, possibly making the door not seal.

Or, you could wedge a chunk of 2x4 between the door & quarter, near the top and push on the bottom of the door & try to twist the door a bit. Be careful, or you'll be doing more body work on the door. LOL.

No idea on the door fit as there is no weather stripping left around the door. Lol. I have also never driven this thing. I don't even know if the 3 speed will work.

I'm not worried too much about the door for now as I know I can fix it later. The door hinges are saggy and the kick panel isn't helping.

Roger on the seam sealer I will try it snd post up results after I get this welded up!

Thx for the advice.

Wondering if a three speed will work is like asking if the sun will come up tomorrow. There's a reason those damn things are still in so many Broncos.

Haven't had much time to wrench on the 72 but did get a few parts blasted including the steel wheels from Mike. Started to prime them will be painting them white.







Will be dropping the tcase and Trans tomorrow to replace whatever disaster awaits behind the bell housing.

Are those the Rare, K/H Kelsey Hayes wheels that were supposed to be specific to the '66?!!!

LOL, I thought the same thing, but no they are not 66 specific. The 66 wheels have the K/H and a different "spoke" shape than later wheels. I found a pic of a correct 66 wheel and posted it in the '66 Wiki' last night after I talked to Chris & did some reading. They must have made K/H branded wheels for a couple years. I have one stamped with 67, and Chris's are stamped 68, all are the newer 'spoke' design.