I hope I can get some CCB folks out here in the future. I'm sure I'll be able to make it worth the drive!

I'm starting to think I'm ready to hang it up in the daily work department. I've always liked the Reno area.

Awww damn!

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Thanks to B.O.B. for getting me a great price. Thought I was jumping the gun, but I beat a significant price increase so it was worth it. Plus there really isn't any point in setting bump stops & trimming metal for 33s then for 37s later. At least that's what I keep telling myself. Now I need to find the time to get back to work on the Bronco. Hopefully after I get back from CO in a couple weeks. But I'll be juggling my 74 and a shop build at the same time. Don't really want to cross the 5 year mark without driving it, but it won't surprise me.

Nice, 37s are new 35s!

They make my 33's look puny.

More trimming is going to be necessary.

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Actually I'm not surprised. I think there should be room to cycle the suspension with a little sheet metal trimming. I put it together expecting to run off my 33's, but planning for 37's so I left a couple extra inches from anything important.

I've had the 37's and wheels for a couple years and was eager to see them on the truck so I figured it was a good place to start.

BTW, mounting beadlocks sucks. Lots of Advil and a few days work and they are all together.

The most obvious problem spot is my main tank fuel neck. It might be time for a fuel cell in the bed. Maybe, I should have just done it that way to begin with, but I really want the bed space. If I change to a fuel cell I'll put the Aero tank in the 72. After the molasses colored "gas" that came out of the 72 I know I'll need a new one.


New daily driver/tow rig

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How far back did you push the rear axle? I am also concerned with the filler neck, but I am also very against taking up bed space so I think I'll find a workaround.

Nice f-one-fiddy! 5.0? What's the plan with the ole 7.3?

Axle is back almost 4". I've pushed the filler neck back up against the tail light pocket. I am going to look at rerouting the neck/hose to clear the tire, but I really don't want to cut the floor since I've just bed lined everything. I was also thinking about having a 'loose' filler neck like some do with flat bed pick up trucks. I'd just have to make sure it was tucked away and safe for wheeling. I have no real plan these are just in the brainstorming phase.

The F150 is the 3.5 Ecoboost. The 7.3 will go up for sale. It's ugly but super reliable. The Chrysler 300 will be sold as well, but I have a feeling it will stay in the family. My goal was for a daily driver that could tow the Bronco/camp/fish etc, instead of 2 vehicles. The 7.3 is awful on trails/off road. The 300 isn't a good vehicle for work. I'm a builder sales rep for a fireplace company. It might sound superficial but it just doesn't look good driving up to job sites with a ghost flame 300. A lot of builders are good ol' boys, and the 300 is just not the right first impression.

They'd love a bronco...LOL!

Interested in seeing what you come up with on filler neck.

I figured I'd try to cycle the rear suspension and see what happens (I should have done this when I built the suspension). I broke down the leaf packs to the main spring and built a spacer to make up the difference in thickness.

I don't have a lot of shackle movement. The Tahoe spring pack sits almost flat at rest. Totally flat gives me about 3.5" of up travel. But the diff cleared the gas tank (and filler neck) easily. So..... I figured I'd move the axle back another inch using the extra holes in the Ruffstuff spring perchs. It still clears, so I think I just gained an inch. My girlfriend said that's a good thing. I have no idea what she is talking about.

According to old measurements I should be at about 98.25" wheel base.

I don't know if shortening the shackles (now at 5") to 3" and using a 1" lift block would offer any advantages over leaving things as-is. I expect I'll be adding an antiwrap bar so I don't think the 1" spacer would hurt. I just don't know if the shorter shackle would be an advantage over the longer shackle.

I'll probably have to rework the filler neck/hose slightly. I don't have a lot of clearance about 1". I'd like to see more, just for safety's sake. I'd hate a rock to flip up and catch between the tire & filler hose.

Before
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After
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A little more trimming to the rear quarters (more to come) just to see. I'm going to cycle the front end and see if things clear up front next.

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Thats looking good!!

As you know, I am watching closely! This mod has been on my list a long time.

My plan was to retain the springs as well as it just seems simple to cut off mounts and move them where I need. Interesting you feel it's not the way to go. My plan was to use those towers on the front.

Reusing the stock length springs would be easier than changing to the Tahoe springs I'm sure. I just jumped into this swap blind when I saw how short my rear driveshaft was. I liked the idea of using a longer spring. I'd feel more confident if I had taken more time reading about setting up the springs. Hopefully they will perform well. I still have that unknown hanging over my head. If this set up doesn't work well I'll have to consider ripping it all out and going to coils or coil overs or custom leaf springs. Custom leaf springs seem cost prohibited. Repositioning and adjusting these springs seems like a giant pita right now. Until it gets on the trails I just have some unanswered questions.

I think coils seem to offer better performance, but I was intimidated by setting up a 4 link at the time. I should have taken the time to research more but wanted to keep the project moving and get it done (ironic).



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I am in the same boat. Feels like 4-links are trouble-some to get setup right. I suppose if you build in adjustability you should be able to dial it in.

I am happy with the flex of my 11-leaf pack, so my plan was to simply move them back and up 2" so they don't hang down so much. Get the 2" back using spring rockers. Then get Aero to build me a shorter tank with a relief for the axle pumpkin. Then a true hi9...then a 609, then....

I am trying to figure out a direction to go with mine as well. I have been researching and chatting with various peeps on their setups and seriously thinking about a set of deaver ranger leafs in the rear with bypasses. I need to replace my leaf spring hangers anyway but want more performance, desert, whoops, road and crawling. I would love to go long arm/linked, but I sometimes pack light and other times heavy. The issue with linked rear is if you aren’t consistent with the weight in the rear it will sit low and affect the ride/travel. The Ranger/deaver leafs compensate much better for the weight differences and you get pretty great travel, droop and decent performance. In addition you can raise the hangers to be even with the frame and retain most of your axle mount points.

Anyway. Just my thoughts.

I am trying to figure out a direction to go with mine as well. I have been researching and chatting with various peeps on their setups and seriously thinking about a set of deaver ranger leafs in the rear with bypasses. I need to replace my leaf spring hangers anyway but want more performance, desert, whoops, road and crawling. I would love to go long arm/linked, but I sometimes pack light and other times heavy. The issue with linked rear is if you aren’t consistent with the weight in the rear it will sit low and affect the ride/travel. The Ranger/deaver leafs compensate much better for the weight differences and you get pretty great travel, droop and decent performance. In addition you can raise the hangers to be even with the frame and retain most of your axle mount points.

Anyway. Just my thoughts.

If I remember correctly, shipping wasn’t that bad. I thought about going to pick my set up but then you have to pay local sales tax which was close to shipping, then you have the fuel and time cost as well.

Off-road design looks like a good option as well.

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I have been poking away at the Bronco for the last couple months.

Cycling suspension, cutting away metal for the 37's, cut off the rockers in preparation for sliders.

I've been reading and watching some Youtube videos about leaf springs trying to decide how to move forward with the rear suspension. I wish I had done more research before swapping the springs. I'm going to try running them with 5" shackles and then with 3.5" shackles and a 1" lift block I've got. I did cycle the suspension with both set ups and saw little suspension travel difference. I'm only getting 8" from a flat spring to total droop. It did cycle easier with the shorter shackles. In the end I'm guessing I'll end up with a custom set of Deaver or Alcan springs. I called Alcan asking what travel I could expect from a custom set of springs, but their only answer is the CYA response: 'every truck is different'.

During the last couple months I lived in Gunnison, I rushed a few things trying to get the Bronco running before moving. One of those things was some work on my roll cage. Long story short, I've decided to build a new roll cage. My dissatisfaction is from combination of how I originally assembled the cage, how I added to the cage, and how it was misbent by Clint at Battlement Fab when I bought it. The end result is a somewhat messy, somewhat asymmetrical cage I'm just not happy with.

A while back I bought a used Pro-tools 105 bender on a stand, with 2 dies (1.5"x90* & 1.75"x180*), Swag/HF air over hydraulic ram, Bend Tech Pro software, and some 1.75" HREW.

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After lots of Youtube videos, a string line cage built in my Bronco, 1000 measurements, 'building' my cage in Bend Tech, rebuilding the bender stand so it didn't tip over, polishing my follower die, several test bends and one full size trial in HREW, more reading and Youtube videos, I ended up with these:

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The cage will be similar to the one I bought from Battlement Fab but with a 'right' hoop and a 'left' hoop, instead of two 'lefts'. Of course I couldn't make my first bending project simple. 156.5" long, 5 bends with a 7* offset for the front foot. My first attempt with some HREW I got with the bender had a significant twist in it. My DOM ones came out right on the money.

I've ordered a Pro-Tools notcher to replace my roached out HF notcher and it should be here soon, I hope. They are on back order, and I'm trying to not by Chinese products if at all possible. Their basic notcher is more affordable than any other non-CCP options.

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Love the design Chad! One thing you may consider is arching your overhead bars down the center a little so they shed rain when you have a soft-top on.