I know a few guys are going through the Body Work stage and I would like a comprehensive list of the proper steps. I am trying to do everything at home to keep costs down and learn as much as possible.

Here is my list:

Strip Paint on all Body Panels
Pull any Dents
Replace any Rusted Panels

Grind Down Welds w/ Flap Wheel (instead of Grinding Wheel)
Body Filler
Sanding
Skim Filler
Sanding
Hang Body Panels, Fenders, Tail Gate, Doors, Grill
Wash and Degreaser all Panels with Tack Cloths
Epoxy Primer 1.8 Tip HVLP - 2 Coats
Urethane Primer - 2 Coats
Sanding, Guide Coats, Sanding
Glazing Compound
Final Urethane Primer 1.8 HVLP Tip (Optional)
Final Sanding
Wash and Degreaser all Panels, Tack Cloths
Urethane Paint - 2 Coats
Clear Coat - 1 to 2 Coats
Let Paint Cure
Final Wet Sanding
Final Buffing

Any additions, advice, changes, recommendations, etc.?

On my Frame, I hung plastic on the walls and floor. Luckily it was unseasonably warm and did not need a heat source. Unfortunately, anything from now till April/May will likely need to be heated which may cause dust. I have a Kerosene Reddy Heater and not sure if it will blow dust around or if it will actually help with the exhaust process. I sprayed the Primer (2 Coats) and Ceramic Chassis Black (2 Coats) on my frame in one long day drying between coats.

Swept my Garage out
Sprayed Floors Clean with Water
Let Dry Overnight
Hung Plastic on Walls and Floor
Garage Door Open 2 Inches
Box Fan with Furnace Filter

I used HVLP Gun and it did not create that much dust so I never used the box fan for exhaust. If I need exhaust, I was prepared to open garage side man door, put the box fan in the open door and seal off the top of the door to vent the spray dust and fumes.

Cleanup of the paint booth was a dream - pulled the plastic down and threw it away. I wore a paint suit and head sock and threw them all away - very easy. I am hopeful the primers should be similar and not need to exhaust the spray dust but could be wrong. The Paint and Clear Coats will likely need an exhaust system. I was really lucky that my first time spraying the frame when smooth or I would have thrown in the towel on the Auto Body on the rest of the truck.

Here's how I'm doing my bronco for reference.

All welding
strip car (I'm doing this after the welding to minimize bare-metal time)
underside and engine bay-strip, paint
gap alignment
pull dents
puttywork in 80 grit
Metal can be sanded with 80 grit before priming, anything else needs to be 120 or 180 grit-anything coarser and the primer may shrink into the scratches after paint.
doors off
etch prime
surface prime
paint jambs on doors and body
rehang doors
240 block
spot prime
400 block
PAINT!!!
800 wet block
1000 wet block
1500 DA
3000 DA
coarse, medium, fine buff

This process has evolved over the years. We try to ALWAYS paint the car assembled to guarantee a color match. Just because something comes out of the same can does not mean it will appear to be the same color. If you are going metallic or pearl and need to spray the doors off of the truck, they MUST be hung vertical. The metallics laying differently will cause the illusion of a color change.

A couple tips:
never use a cleaner before spreading putty. The cleaners leave a residue that inhibit proper "grip". One knucklehead told us he was using baby wipes to clean the areas he wanted to putty. What do baby wipes often have in them? Lotion! Not good.

Always use a cleaner between sprayable coats, though. Only use automotive prep cleaners, often referred to as Grease and Wax Remover.

What color are you going? 2 coats of base might not be enough.

How much do you plan to cut and buff? I recommend no less than 3 healthy coats of clear. We usually do 4. 4 is the least I am comfortable with.

You may start to wet sand and buff maybe 3 days after the clear has hardened.

Don't wax or wash the vehicle for at least 6 weeks after spraying the clear. Doing so can seal in the solvents and cause the clear to go hazy again.