Dan....can you call me? Keith is here and we have a venting question....

Thanks! Question answered.

Eric should be building the stroker in a tank top now! guzzlin' Corona's by the pool!!! It's gettin warm in there

Yep! Went to Ace and picked up a pack of 3a fuses. Keith blew one...how...I don't know.

Swapped in the new fuse and we're up and running! Keith...the blower stays on for 3-5 min after the heater shuts off to blow off the heat from the exchangers....so it's working correctly:)

It's quiet as hell to....heated up the garage a good 10+ degrees with the garage door open!

Thanks again!

PlumbDoctor at his best:)

Thats only when we're bent over!!

I need to seal up the vent connections and I thought of using aluminum tape....but is there something else that will work? This vent is going to get HOT...and the sticky side of the tape will probably melt. What else can I use? Is there a high-temp silicone I can use? Also, can I use the same thing to seal the area where the vent goes through the wall?

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81409-Hi ... 561&sr=8-3

Thanks.

Look for Rutland High Temp caulks,

I used the clear stuff on flashings:
http://www.rutland.com/productinfo/500- ... clear.html

Does the vent manufacturer require or recommend sealant? What kind of vent is it? Typical B-vent? If it twist locks or doesn't call for sealant, I wouldn't use any.

I did find this stuff, I never saw it when I was installing fireplaces:
http://www.rutland.com/productinfo/seal-it-right.html

Honestly there is no reason you couldn't use any hi temp RTV.

Here's what I want to seal...

Hi temp silicone at the wall penetration & at the pipe to collar. I'd get the clear stuff I listed above & put it on the outside of the house too, prevent water from getting inside.

Silver tape is fine on the pipe/pipe connection. RTV would work, but make disassembly in the future more difficult.

So the tape adhesive won't get all gooey under 400f+?

Its made for sealing up B-vent, it gets hot & sticks like hell. I've got it on my boiler vent, single wall, and it will never come off, trust me.

I don't think you even need to seal the b-vent joint, unless the heater or chimney manufacturer calls for it. The seal for the exhaust gas is made on the inner layer of chimney, not the outer. The thin air gap between the inner & outer walls is just for insulation, allowing closer clearance to combustibles than singlewall. It also keeps the exhaust gasses hot, which is important on hi-efficiency appliances. On a forced exhaust appliance, the rules may be different, is your exhaust fan driven?

I ran a bunch of 6" b-vent when I relocated my boiler & water heater & only used tape on the single wall, that connects to the double wall chimney. Your furnace may not even be using singlewall. I screwed my double wall together, but didn't use tape. If you want to be sure, the brand of chimney you are using will have a very detailed installation guide available on-line, it will tell you exactly what to do to build a UL listed chimney.

Simpson Dura-vent & Metalbestos / Selkirk are common brands of b-vent.

Chad

I found the clear Rutland silicone at Ace (fireplace section) and used it as you suggested. Also used the aluminum tape I had around the pipe/pipe connection. Thanks!

Sounds good, I'm jealous, my garage is about 20* right now, and dropping. It will hover about 10* once winter has really set in. Now that I work at the bodyshop I don't need heat, since I can work in that shop. But, if I ever leave, a garage heater like yours will be top priority.

Ironically, while I was answering your venting questions, I spent Saturday morning flushing my boiler system & installing 2 new hydronic pumps. My house was about 45* when the heat was kicked back on in the afternoon. Why doesn't the heat ever break during the summer?