I am in the middle of selecting a garage builder and trying to get any future "options" that i will want to add later in before the build.

Right now the plan is to build a 24x30, I think with Denver building codes I have a limit on 10ft wall height on each side - with a limit of 16 ft center peak.
Plan is one 16ft door with 10ft of shop space off to one side. Thats 2ft wall/corner, 16 foot door, 10ft shop space then 2 ft for wall/corner.

Thinking of going with two single doors instead for privacy and to keep the heat in better - but big wide door would be nice :)

Plan on insulating and heating, hanging heater in one corner.

I will have 100 AMP sub panel pulled to the garage
I plan on sealing/coating the concrete floor
I will be adding various electric outlets around the perimeter and overhead after final inspection
I plan on pulling ethernet/media cable from the house to the garage for cameras in the alley and garage for security
I would love to put something like the "backyard buddy" in the far right bay to store my car on top and bronco underneath, but pretty sure thats a pipe dream.. nice to have a lift though... (http://www.backyardbuddy.com/)

Trying to think of anything else i would need to plan for - what other things should i pre-plan / accommodate for?

What about plumbing hot water in for mud room / scrub sink and or washing cars when it is cold weather

Run more electrical than you think you need. I have 5 220v outlets and wish I had 2 more. I have 52 110v outlets in the walls and 24 switched im the ceiling for lights. The 110v is good. Insulate well. I used osb on the walls and love it as I can hang most anything anywhere with just some screws. If you're not putting in a lift put a slight slope on your floor. If a lift is a possibility then pour it level. Put your compressor in it's own closet or room and plumb air everywhere you can. I'll think of more.

On the door question. I had a garage built when I lived in Arvada. Wanted 2 doors for the same reasons you state. My builder pointed out how much smaller the opening would be with 2 doors. and 2 doors are twice the money.
I set up a fake door opening and backed the cars in ( a EB, Vette and a full size pickup). I went with 1 door. My garage was 20 ft wide

Get an insulated door and good seals and you won't lose too much heat. But two 9ft doors would be nice. I'd compare price and go from there. I'd also look into the jackshaft openers. That increases headspace tremendously!

Do you need an exhaust fan for running a vehicle inside? Or even welding? Sometimes a big bathroom fart-fan can do the job.

Lighting - Get as many as you can, and I would say LED!! Even a bunch of recessed cans would be great. We have about 8 in our kitchen and they pop!! I think they are somewhere near the 4500k color and are perfect! Or the 4ft bulb type too, but the recessed add some protection. Since they draw little amperage, you can daisy chain a lot of them on one circuit. Also, consider installing one interior motion sensing light that kicks on when the door opens. That's nice when you go out at night and just need to grab something.

Maybe an exterior outlet or two could be handy, especially one 220v for welding outside if you can't get a project inside.

Storage?

A sound deadening compartment for your air compressor? I hate the noise of mine in the garage. And perhaps run hard-line to various areas inside the garage.

My dad built a 24x30. Wishes he would have gone bigger and he has the room to do so... But he has a 1968 Power Wagon he's doing a frame off with and still gets all his tools and jeep inside. You can even work on the jeep when needed.

More reading:
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthre ... a-workshop

Chose a garage builder. Working on the options I want and need. Will be pulling gas from the house for a ceiling heater. Pulling several runs of CAT 5e/6 Ethernet and coaxial cable to/from the house for security cameras, internet and pass though cable. Going with scissor trusses to give me a few more feet of clearance inside and using a roll up insulated garage door to eliminate the the rails of a traditional sectional door. Will post up a build thread once things get underway. About 6 weeks out from breaking ground.

Iam a detached garage here. Too much trouble but I looked into it. Gas is a pain too but after much research worth it. I agree it would be a nice to have but iam already pushing my initial budget and haven't even gotten to insulation or full electric.

...and I can't even get my roof re-done! Stupid insurance companies.

JGZ has a garage door guy named Zach.

For floor coatings, I've had several people tell me that the epoxy coatings with the chips make it really difficult to find smaller hardware that gets dropped. I was looking at this for my floor: http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalo ... e-coat-kit

I can second JGZ's guy Zach. If I was home in Denver - I could get you his contact info - his card is stapled to the wall next to the opener he repaired at our house there.

I'm on the fence for floor coatings. Have done a two-car garage with U-Coat-it with descent results, and then a 3-car with Sherwin Williams offerings. This garage, has a nice polished finish without any coating and I like it just as well, without the cost of a coating. And no wear issues. The other coatings began to start having some issues after about a year of daily use.

As far as my research went with coatings... if you're grinding or welding and those sparks or heat get to the floor it'll kill any of it. I decided to just put down a good concrete sealer. It looks like a concrete floor still so, not bad but not as pretty as a painted floor. Oil wipes up quickly and easily and it seems as durable as normal concrete.