I would really like to add a York Compressor to my Bronco this Summer for airing up the tires. Anyone have a list of the necessary parts? Do I need to change any of the belt pulleys? Thanks in advance for the direction.

First you need a sawsall. Oh and a hammer. Cut the rockers and fenders. Then get the first dent outta the way and smack it with the hammer....

Now your ready to get it dirty.

If you are still running a v-belt, I used a York from a late 70's Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer. They are the large displacement, and I bet there are lots sitting in scrap yards. Serpentine Yorks are harder to find, and buying a new serp clutch is expensive, I had one from an early 80's 302-LTD, probably a dealer installed AC, but the clutch was bad, the brackets put it right where my p/s pump is, and I'm not running a serp set up, so I didn't mess with it. For the Jeep York, I built a custom bracket, sits horizontal above the alternator. One thing to consider when searching for Yorks, on a horizontal install, the inlet to the pump needs to be the EDIT: ?????? fitting.

Everything in my system was pilfered from a dead air compressor, and used an old medical O2 tank. So I can't be much help there. You'll need a tank, on/off switch, pressure switch, & ?regulator?. I made most of my system or had it lying around, and paid more for the brass barbs and air hose than everything else combined. Even got a free, old, unused air dryer filter set up from the body shop.

Here is a picture of how it sits. The orange bulb is just a air tool air filter, figured it would be good insurance against sucking dirt into the pump. The air filter is sitting above the 2 stage air dryer set up, fit nicely on the firewall behind the pass wheel well.


A real good write up: I think this explains how to ID the inlet of the York & how it needs to be positioned. It links to a mod to block off an oil port that will help keep the oil in the pump & out of your air. I did it, but mine seems to pump oil anyways, so I used an air dryer & keep topping it off each year. No big deal. I figured out it was pumping oil, when I pulled my tank & it spilled oil everywhere. Oooops.
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html

Sources for Yorks:
http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/yor ... Donors.php

These guys have everything, but are expensive:
http://www.kilbystore.com/products-airboss-jeep.html

Gunni Bronco posted up a great source for how to set up a system. My system really isn't to much different than a normal compressor system. I will post I picture that will show you all the parts you need. The only part I couldn't find cheap or in the junk yard was the correct fittings for the top of the york for the quick 90's, I ordered those from Kilby. Also make sure you use a high heat braided stainless steal hose on the air exit side of the york. The air when it comes out is very hot from being compressed and it will melt normal air line hose. I got most of my parts from a tractor trailer junk yard. The stuff is everywhere there, because all those rigs have on board air. I saved a fortune getting all my brass fitting there, I used all quick release fittings.











These are pictures of how I vented the york crankcase and it seems to have fixed virtually all oil leakage into the air flow. My theory is the crankcase builds pressure in there and that is what forces the oil past the rings and into the compressed air exiting the pump. It has worked great for my system.







I took all the pictures below at the tractor trailer salvage yard where I got all my fittings, pump and air tank for dirt cheap.

Zen is right about the outlet line of the compressor. First, I used regular air hose & it melted & burst pretty quick. I went to Carquest and explained my situation, they sold me a generic hose, rated at higher temp & pressure than regular air hose. I can't remember what they called it, but it is orange and not expensive. It hasn't melted. Yet?

The nice thing about the Jeep compressor I used, it had barbed fittings that fit standard hose size, 5/8" I think. I just cut off the stock A/C hose and even reused the hose clamps that came off the compressor.

I'll try to vent the compressor body, like Zen did, maybe that will solve my oil loss problem. That makes sense.

Dang good info guys. I am going to start rounding up parts over the summer. Like Zoso stated, not going to air down until this truck is cut and lockers but wanna pick up parts as I come across them. Thanks again.

All good points! I have radiator hose that I got from Napa on mine for years and it's worked great. No melting yet. The air hose I got at HD did in just a couple uses. There are many options.

The vent is something to consider! Good call Zenzone. I just drain my coalescing filter every once in a while, but I have never checked the oil level again since I get the system up and running. Guess I should. I also don't have a tank, although I'd like to plumb one in. Heck, even have a 2.5 gal tank sitting in the garage.

there are several york 210s (which is what you want) with the correct swivel type top hoses and vbelt clutch pulley sitting in the denver pick n pull - i think i paid $10 or something for mine.

I pulled a backup last year for my FSB. You can find the compresor on allot of different cars but mostly from the 80's. They are easy to spot and as you can see they have a distinctive look, also there should be a little plate near the top and should read "210L" or "210R". All the L and R indicated is the side the air exits the compressor. Because the compressor on the EB has to lay on its side you want to get the correct one so that the exit port is on top as the York does oil out. As others have mentioned its set up similar to an air compressor in your garage with a oil/water separator inline etc..

I think I have $350 into my setup on my fullsize, including the hoses and fittings.. the fittings were the most expensive part, although I did buy a fancy 5 gallon tank with 6 outputs for $70.. and if you can you do want a tank in the system - helps with fillups and if you run lockers.

oil wise you can run regular motor oil in it and after reading online on recommended amounts I have come to the conclusion there is no right amount.. just run enough so the thing doesn't go dry.. its very simple.. just a piston really. I run about 4-5 ounces of oil and refill it every year.

One of my favorite mods i have ever done on my Rig.... I would be happy to pull a 210 the next time I visit the Pick n pull.. which iam due for.. and help answer any questions you have.

i also have heard of venting the crank case might reduce the amount of oil it releases.. but haven't tried it yet. I tried to plug the oil passageway with the sheet metal screw but that did nothing..

the less oil you run in the york the better, you dont need to run the 10 or 12 ounces it calls for... your not running it all the time and it will just barf out more oil when it gets hot or you throttle up...

some guys have been running 1 or 2 ounces for years with no problem.

Regarding the orientation of the pump, not to say Landshark is wrong. But I've got (and it looks like Zen too) the suction line on top side of the pump, the discharge on the bottom. I did it based on the Jedi article linked above. I did the oil mod he listed, too. I cut & pasted the section below:

The York compressor can be mounted vertically or horizontally to either side. However, if mounted horizontally, the manufacturer recommends that the suction port be on top. This is most likely due to the internal oiling system locating an oil return line from the crankshaft seal cavity into the air suction line. If you perform the oil system modification that plugs the oil return line to the suction port, then I'm not sure it matters which port is on top. Without that mod, orienting the compressor with the suction line on the bottom will result in excessive oil discharge in your compressed air. The York's pulley can be rotated in either direction, so that's not a concern when trying to join it with your existing belt system.

But it makes sense, that if you have done the oil mod, and aren't using it for A/C, but as a compressor, the oil would stay in the reservoir better, if the discharge was on top.

I could be wrong! But suction on top with the air exit ont he bottom would seem like the oil that does get past would blow right up the exit line into the system?

But i could be wrong as I have mine mounted vertically and still get blow by...

and your right i have read that same article.. i read every single article there was out there before I did my system it seems.. just forgot they do mention the intake on top.

I might try some mods on the extra york I have anyway to see if i can eliminate the discharge.. its the only thing that bugs me about it..as there is a little oil in some of the air lines..

Nope, I'm not arguing. I actually follow your logic, and will probably swap mine over sometime soon, and see if my discharge decreases. Ha, or maybe I need a shot of penicillin.

I just had to go back and reread the article to make sure I hadn't misread or misremembered it when I did my install. I remember jumping on the Jeep compressor because it put my intake where I wanted it, based on my readings. I'd have felt foolish if I had put the pump on upside down after reading as much as I did. I never read about putting the discharge on top, but I like the idea.

no not arguing here either, i have read so many articles it seems like sometimes its counter-productive.. what works for some doesn't work for the others... especially when you are pressing things into duty that really weren't meant to do what they are doing.. like a closed oiling system to an open air system like the York.. but there has to be a way to stop the darn oil from polluting the lines!

For all of the components... tank, pressure relief valve, mechanical switch, tank gauge, regulator, regulator gauge, act. I bought a 3 gallon compressor from Depot and stripped it of its parts. It worked REALLY well. I can show you when we meet next.

I used a combo pulley to run the compressor via V belt from the weldernator. (which has the combo pulley). The 210 York fills REALLY fast at 1400 rpm, Faster than my 4.9 SCFM @90 PSI Rigid job site compressor. Now that I have had the EFI tuned, I am going to get a selector switch for the Quarterhorse that has one tune with a 1300 RPM base, for tilling tires.