do i need to ream the draglink hole if i am going to do over knuckle steering. all other forums dont give this info on this. if i did under, the hole is tapered the right way, but over i would have to ream the taper completely opposite. Pretty sure thats what i need to do.

Just want to make sure with people who have already done this.

Are you talking about the 1 ton TRE chevy conversion with DOM tubing? If so, then you'll need to ream the tie rod either way, I think.

I just put in a C***y TRE & drag link set up. The drag link I used wouldn't fit through the hole in the tie rod either direction. I would have had to ream it to install it either way. I wondered why, but didn't think too much about it & reamed.

I used the typical part numbers to order them from Carquest. They were Raybestos, not Moog.

Chad

Here is pic

Yep thats it. The drag link end won't fit either way.

Chad

yeah either way it needs reamed. should i not use moog.

should i just ream it and be done if thats what i need to do. can i see some pics of your guys setup.

Use Moog, its a good brand, I was just saying. I did mine with a full width axle swap, so everything is a bit wider.

I didn't give it much thought, just enough to make sure I reamed it from the correct side.

alright, i got the idea. thank you

i just never heard anyone having to ream that tierod, so i was worried that i had got a wrong part or something

I think you are right about never reading about it specifically. I just made sure I had the right part number and went for it.

Chad

Just for reference. Here is my setup. Not a "chevy" conversion but works well.

ok after getting the above resolved.

how long should i make the draglink and tie rod? using inserts, for stock dana

In my case the tie rod tube was about 37". The tubing for my drag link was about 24". If I had it to do over again I would have made the drag link about 1/4" shorter, as I need a little more room to adjust up now that I'm running '78 Bronco knuckles. I'd take your existing stuff, mock up the parts on your garage floor and measure it with the old and new parts laid out next to each other. Your drag link will need to be a little longer than mine since I'm running the joint under the pitman arm and you're going over.

cool thanks for the advise. I thought there would be a one size fits all measurement

i have the stock pitman arm. should i still go "over" on the pitman?

I can't remember how much you're lifted. It'll also matter whether you've got a track bar drop or riser bracket. I'd do whatever keeps the bar in the best alignment with the track bar as long as the new rod end will clear everything.

Thanks For for your advise and help! Just got every thing setup tonight, just need to cut and weld. Everything seems to flow once you just start wrenching on it. I will get some pics posted soon.

No sweat! It's nice to be giving advice for a change. I'm curious to see how yours turns out. Have fun!

yes you need to ream all three holes and be very careful not to over ream them don't ask me how i know . i have the reamer and you can borrow it as long as you don't run it backwards because you'll ruin it and have to buy me a new one at 78.00 . thats my only agreement is you break you replace it . you can also look at mine it's an extreme 4x4 setup .

Nice work, I hope you are as happy with your set up as I am.

Chad

Looks good-nice work!

Thanks y'all can't wait to try it out. Took apart the front end again for new springs and degree bushings. Thinking about swapping out for the 44 sitting in the garage as well