In the process of changing to front disc (which has been going on for two weeks ) and got everything installed. I cleaned out the master cylinder which had almost 1/2 inch of junk in it. I decided to change the MC. I called the local advanced and they had a direct replacement. I picked it up and installed it. I attempted to pull the check valve as instructed. I did get the brass piece and there was nothing there. Now what? I have real squishy brakes and need to tie this up. So with all this being said what is the fix.

I would also suggest that anyone with an old vehicle that has not done much with the brakes to look at the MC and decide if they need to change it or at least flush the system. Any help with this is apperciated. Jayson

Not all M/Cs come with the check valve so don't sweat it if you didn't find anything. Did you bench bleed the M/C? If not, air in the system can be a major pain to get out and is likely the cause of your squishy brakes. I ran at least 2-3 quarts of brake fluid through my system before I got rid of the squish after my conversion.

Thanks Justin. Hopefully I can make some provgress tbis weekend. Jayson

No sweat. If you haven't bench bled the M/C, you may want to disconnect the lines from the MC and do so on the truck. You can line it with paper towels to keep the mess down. Don't cycle the input shaft too quickly or you can aerate the fluid, making the problem worse (guess how I know...)

I will give it a shot.

For those of you replacing your MC make sure you get one that you can remove the brass piece to get to the valve. Jayson

I finally got working brakes. I had to grind the stops off the knuckle on both sides. Scared the sh*** out of my self on the test drive. I am ordering the adjustable proportioning valve this am. Jayson

its kind of funny, some guys need the prop valve and others don't. I have run drum/drum, disc/drum & now disc/disc and I have never had to get the prop valve. I have been lucky that everything worked great from the get go.

I have a question then, my front brakes lock up scary fast (had my own little rodeo yesterday) what could I do to improve my rear braking? This may have been too much speed on a dirt road with unfamiliar equipment but, I guess the next thing is to rebuild the rear brakes and take it easy. Thanks Jayson

Locking the brakes has as much (or more) to do with tires as brakes. This may be an issue of traction limiting your stopping power more than anything. Things like air pressure and tire compound can make a really big difference. Do you have some kind of power booster? How much effort is it taking to lock the front brakes and how hard are they stopping at the time? You really want the fronts to be locking sooner than the rears, as its better to understeer in a corner under braking (you can catch it) than oversteer (which usually results in a spin). Cleaning, adjusting and rebuilding the rears may help, but they don't contribute that much to the overall braking, especially under hard braking since there is so much weight transfer forward due to the high center of gravity. It's a good idea no matter what, and it will likely improve the situation at least a little.

Thanks Justin. Jayson

Yeah, what Justin said, but I would still adjust those rear drums, just the same. If the tire spins freely with no friction on the rear if you have it in the air, then you need to tighten them up anyway. If they are adjusted properly, the drum/disc combo is a nice setup. Now that you have that, put hydroboost on there and you will really see what it feels like to plant your face in the windshield....(spoken from experience the first time driving a disc/disc/hydro setup)

Sbolt19, Thanks for the info. I do not know if I can stomach the hydroboost option till I learn the disc/drum. I already had to throw away a pair of drawers and jeans. Jayson

I have a rear spool and it needs ta go. It is eating tires and is obnoxious to drive with the chirping tires. I am going a Limited Slip in the rear to replace the spool since I will do mostly street (95%), snow and trail (5%). However, in the front, I haven't decided what is the best option for my D44.

I am curious if you have a front Detroit/Eaton/Yukon/Grizzly Locker, wouldn't it drive like a regular open differential when the hubs are open, then have the full locker when hubs are locked? If that is true, then that would be a great solution and save a ton of money over a selectable ARB style locker up front in the D44.

Also, I think Kinder has an Aussie Locker up front and his truck seems to go anywhere. I was on their site and did not see an option for a D44.

I think you are right. WTH. Sbolt was just talkin' lockers a minute ago.

Sorry about the hijack.

You may now return to your regularly scheduled programming . . .

What about grinding knuckles? I'm just about to finish my disc brake conversion today and don't want to mess my pants.

You need to check the caliper clearance on the knuckle once everything is back together. I had a tire off and had the wife press the brake pedal, I noticed the caliper was not traveling as it was bottoming out on the knuckle. I think some of the calipers are different sizes so some do not have the issue. I did not have to take everything apart to grind. Hopes this helps. Jayson

I also think that this is only with the Chevy swap. This shouldn't be needed with Ford parts.

Justin is correct. if you are using chevy parts you probably need to grind or at least check closely. Hope this helps. Jayson