Hey Guys,

I'm ordering new suspension components in the next couple weeks. I'm a newb of course. Am I missing anything?
I may be doing my build a lil backwards but the bronco is in really great shape with no rust, So I'm starting from underneath cleaning and painting and working my way up.

3.5 Wild horse lift
1-inch Custom Body Lift Kit
Rear Extended brake lines
Front Extended brake lines
Pit man Arm
Adjustable Track Bar
Steering Stabilizer
Rear Bump stops
Front Bump stops

That looks like a pretty complete list. Let me know if you need help with the install. You'll need to beg, buy, or borrow a set of very tall jack stands that will reach the frame to get the springs in.

thanks for the response guys

I'm planning to scrap and clean everything underneath and just spray it with Chassis saver? any opinions on that?
also what size jack stands do I need?

Look like a good grocery list:) I learned after I bought a steering stabilizer that they really aren't necessary. Ended up selling it. Also, you may (or may not) need extended emergency brake cables . I ran mine up and over the frame to get them out of the way. The only other things I can think of are extended master cylinder lines and extended clutch rod (depending on the type of tranny and brake systems you have).

I ended up replacing both the fuel tank filler necks because even with that 1" body lift, it actually is more like 1.5+" and they were stretched pretty far.

I used Chassis Saver to paint my axles & liked it, wire wheel the whole thing & spray, brush, or roll on the Chassis Saver. If you spary use a gun set up for primer, I used a 3m primer gun with disposable cups and it worked great. It will seal in what rust is left & build & fill to cover holes. I think you could do the inside too. If I didn't Herculine it 10 years ago, that is what I'd do under carpet. It has a bit of a thick/hard/rubber result.

Chad

Sounds like a great list. I dont think there is a right order to do your project - it is whatever you wanna do first. I did my project like you - starting with the underside first, then moved to the body, engine, and interior. I totally understand wanting to do the lift first since it is the most dramatic project you can do. I sanded and painted my frame and undercarriage with POR 15 then Eastwood Extreme Chassic black. Sprayed really nice and is a great value. I taped off most of the nuts and bolts and it turned out like new. You will be really happy with that size suspension and body lift. I love my WH lift. If your truck is an automatic, you may need to legnthen the shifting rod. The adjustable auto shift rod from WH is super nice. What color springs and shock boots did ya order?

I havent ordered yet, Just making sure my parts list is good, all of you veterans to the bronco world would be able to steer me in the right direction and save me some hassle and I appreciate that ...... I plan to order in the next few weeks. the tanks and lines are all out. I'm thinking of pulling the engine and trans out before installing the lift, It's got 121 thousand on it and would rather start with a fresh 302 long block or rebuilt this one and do the efi conversion with new wiring harness<--- Thats down the road of course.
After cleaning and painting underneath I will add the body lift and 3.5 WH, Then Disk brakes all around a few months later. After that start body work for paint, Engine, trans and transfer are last on my list. I want to be able to get in crank it and drive to Mississippi if I wanted to. Its really hard not to get intimidated after looking at yall's rigs.

my budget is only 400 a month and takes me a few months to accumulate for parts :( I haven't decided on a paint color, I do know I don't like the brown.

color likes are Hot ginger, Silver, and the new Camaro green thus far, and ford has a root color brown i like a lot. I don't want to get ahead of myself as I tend to get stressed thinking about it LOL

You're treading down a dangerous path. If you're going to pull the engine, may be a good time to do paint while it's out. I think Entourage's frame off resto may have started that way. I'd reconsider doing disks in the rear. The aren't significantly more powerful that drums (limited friction between the tire and road surface under heavy braking is the bigger issue) and you'll have a much less effective parking brake if that matters to you. They're a little better for mud, but drums aren't that big a deal to clean out. I'd go drums in the front and then power brakes. Hydroboost is cheap and pretty easy to install. I'm hoping to do mine before Christmas.

I'd say to have the rear driveshaft lengthened anyway. Like stated, every EB is different, but if you are out on the trail & that thing pops out, it is a pain in the ass from the get go.

Oh yea! I forgot that my rear drive shaft was over extended....had to replace that also.

Justin, After much reading I have come the to conclusion rear disks would be a waste of money, My 2500 was rolling on 35's with a 6 inch lift with drums in the rear and disks up front never had any issues. I will take your advice my friend. This is why I love this site, Nice to bounce idea's with the experienced.

Sbolt19: My rig will mostly be a sunday cruiser and ice cream getter :)

Zilla, would be nice to paint the engine bay agreed, I'm scared to death of body work. An inexperienced person can really mess up here.
although I don't hate this engine bay :)

I really do appreciate all your input, I've been a creeper on this site for a while gathering info and checking out rides,
Zilla / Entourage your broncos discourage me

I have never done auto body before my Bronco. I watched a DVD, watched Viper work on 777's Bronco, bought the tools, and got started. My painter said that it was the best 'civilian' body work he had seen. Point is that if I can do it, so can you. You are also welcome to my DVD, air sanders, sanding blocks, etc.

I sense a tech-day in the works! I'd love to learn more about body work. My tailgate is in desperate repair.

I have the Paintucation DVD. I am happy to send it around to CCB Members. Just send me a PM and I will drop it in the mail. It covers fabbing metal, replacing panels, welding, autobody fillers, paint prep, applying primers, applying paint, paint booths, etc. Great video. I have heard there are videos on YouTube as well but I found the Paintucation to be very complete.

There is a TON of money to be saved by doing it yourself. I found it to be the most gratifying part of my project. You need to weigh out purchasing new panels vs. repairing old ones. I went with new fron fenders because I knew they would be perfect and repairing the damage was WAY beyond my abilities since they were dog-eared at the bottom and had previous damage with poor repair job. Doing the Body Work myself, made it possible to pay to have a professional (Cope Customs) shoot the paint and clear coat in a paint booth. However, there are a few guys in the club (PlumbDoctor) that have had amazing results shooting paint at home. Another option is using Cope's Paint Booth as he rents it to members when it is available.

As for a Tech Class, I know a certain Admin of the site who is going to be doing Auto Body work this winter and has a TON of Autobody experience. Winter is a great time to start the project because the Spring/Summer is the ultimate motivator to get the project done and back on the road.

I wish I was closer so I could help out. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to post up or pm me. I've been doing body work for a living(mostly metal work, not much painting) for almost 4 years now.

Chad

I asked the welder question last year. The advice I received from the CCB members was invaluable and followed it to a T. I had never welded and the Lincoln 110 made learning quick and easy. Here is the thread with the info as well as the place I purchased the welder for an amazing deal:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=335&hilit=lincoln+welder+cart

Some guys will recommend a 220V and that is good advice, but I never needed the extra power of a 220 Volt welder. Keep us updated on what you decide to do.

We do all our sheet metal welding with Snap-On 110v machines. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

We didn't even have a 220v welder in the shop till recently. I like the 220v machine when it comes to bigger stuff, but its hard to need anything bigger than the 110v machines.

I have a Hobart 130 at home and am sure it would do a lot, but if I was burning steering linkage or suspension stuff I'd want 220v.

Chad