I am having my engine bay sandblasted so I can give my 5.0 a nicely painted engine bay to perform in.

Meanwhile I have some mild rust that I need to deal with on a temporary basis (I plan to do a frame off in a couple of years when I will replace panels).

So, what is the best way to stop the rust in it's tracks (I know some will remain after the sandblasting) ?

I have heard of PoR15 but don't know if it can be painted over or ?

Thanks in advance guys !

Most etch primers have a metal conditioner to convert rust & prevent new rust from forming. It may not be enough, but would probably last until you get to do more.

Also there are metal conditioners that you spray on, let sit, then rinse off with water. We are doing that to the 1972 Chevy p/u we are working on right now. I don't know the name of the product right now, but I'll check at work today & post up. After rinsing, just prime & paint.

The POR & Chassis Saver are thick and would be very tough to remove in the future. I don't think you can top coat them, but I'm not sure. Find the Chassis Saver stuff by Googling "magnetic paint" the manufacturer.

POR15 is good stuff. Just don't get it on your hands or garage floor. I used it in my engine bay and went over it with flat black spray paint after it flashed up.

The metal conditioner we are using on the old Chevy is called Auto Tech "Rust Converter" its in a pump spray bottle.

There is also a Permatex aerosol called "Rust Treatment" or "Rust Converter" that works good. You don't have to rinse it with water but it has to sit for 24 hours before top coating.

These are both thin bodied, almost like water.

Chad

I love POR 15. Here's the theory behind it (as I've been told, anyhow):

Paint is typically porus to some extent, even clearcoat. Because it is porus, oxygen can get under it and help to spread rust. Rust requires oxygen to form. POR15 is supposed to be non-porus, keeping oxygen off of the metal (as I am told). If that's true, POR 15 should keep rust from getting worse IF it seals the rust completely. I can't really tell if POR 15 will ever peel or bubble when applied over rust, but can say it stops at least surface rust in its tracks. I use the stuff like crazy. It seems to be the next-best thing to sand blasting.

POR 15 sells an etching primer to use over it before painting. I have a hunch any good etching primer will work. Use their etching primer, then a primer-surfacer if needed, then sand and paint.

Of course, POR has a recommended system from bare metal all the way to piant. It becomes difficult to find the line between marketing and truth sometimes, so whatever you feel comfortable with. We once put bedliner over POR 15. It's not subject to UVs or extreme heat, but no problem yet. I occasionally paint over POR15 in very tiny patches on exterior parts. No problems yet.

One man's experience, anyway.

POR15 was designed as a chassis coat paint for cover all of that rust. If that's what you are wanting to use it for then do not use anything else.

If your wanting to just clean up your fender wells until your ready to do a full tear down media blast, repair then paint. I would just shoot the area with some rustoleum.

I used a bit of por15 on my F100 and it came out sweet and still hasnt changed since day 1. They also make a floor repair system for rust pitted floors when the floor pans really do not need replaced. It also coats the metal to protect. There is also a fuel tank seal kit to clean the interior of the cell and coat. I also did some of that on my F100 but ran out so I need to finish the prep before final coat can be applied.

Myself, 76FordBronco, and Gregg took the front clip off today in order to get to the rust on the top flange of the inner fender on the driver side.

We had a heck of a time with the 5/16 x 18 screws that hold the fenders to the door post so Dr. Mike (76FordBronco) schooled us on how to surgically grind the heads off without screwing up the fender's mounting flange !

BIG THANKS to 76FordBronco & Gregg !