Bolt torque values for 1970 302

Hey, I have a D44 from a 79 F250. the D44 in the 69 is from a half ton. I am hoping to swap the outter knuckles so I will have 8 lug wheels on all four corners. Are the 1/2 ton D44 and 3/4 ton D44 the same? I should have no problems swapping the outters over I hope.

EARLY BRONCO AXLE LENGTHS:
FORD 9":
DRUM TO DRUM LENGTH 58"
AXLE FLANGE TO AXLE FLANGE...53"
28 SPLINE AXLE
SMALL BEARING DIM'S...2.835" O.D. / 1.376" I.D.
LARGE BEARING DIM'S...3.150" O.D. / 1.531" I.D.
1310 SPICER U-JOINT
PRE 69 USES SMALL HUB CARRIER
PINION DEPTH.....1.900"
BACKLASH........ .008-.012"
PINION PRELOAD.......13-15 in lbs
CARRIER CAPS......60 ft lbs
RING GEAR..........60 ft lbs

66-75 (SMALL BRG) (28 SPLINE) 1 3/4" BRAKE R.H..29.62"
66-75 (SMALL BRG) (28 SPLINE) 1 3/4" BRAKE L.H..27.25"

66-75 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 1 3/4" BRAKE R.H..29.31"
66-75 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 1 3/4" BRAKE L.H..26.94"

74-75 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 2 1/2" BRAKE R.H..29.75"
74-75 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 2 1/2" BRAKE L.H..27.25"

76-77 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 2 1/4" BRAKE R.H..29.68"
76-77 (LARGE BRG) (28 SPLINE) 2 1/4" BRAKE L.H..27.25"

DANA 44:
30 SPLINE INNER / 19 SPLINE OUTER
71-75 DRUM BRAKE
76-77 DISC BRAKE
71-77 INNER....5-260X U JOINT....L.H..18.31"
71-77 INNER....5-260X U JOINT....R.H..27.94"

NOMINAL PINION DEPTH....2.625"
BACKLASH...........004-.009"
PINION BEARING PRELOAD....20-40 in.lbs. new
PINION NUT....200-220 ft lbs
CARRIER CAPS....70-90 ft lbs
RING GEAR.....45-65 ft lbs
COVER.......30-40 ft lbs
WHEEL BRG INNER.....50 ft lbs then back off 90 degrees
WHEEL BRG OUTER.....80-100 ft lbs
SPINDLE..........30-40 ft lbs

Bronco duraspark diagrams

Here is a good one for the Main/Aux Fuel Gage switch

Found these pics and descriptions on a forum. It was the easiest to understand explanations with diagrams that I've seen.





Wheel Offset
Offset is measured from the centerline of the barrel of the wheel to the hub mounting surface. If that hub mounting surface were in the exact center of the barrel of the wheel the offset would be “0". If the mounting surface is away from the center of the wheel the offset is measured in millimeters. There are 25.4 millimeters to an inch. So if the mounting surface is 12mm from the centerline of the wheel it has a 12mm offset. That would also mean that it is about ½ inch. If the mounting surface is moved away from the vehicle that is a positive offset. The picture shows a wheel with the positive offset. A positive offset will cause the wheel to set in or tuck into the vehicle. Originally you found positive offsets on just front wheel vehicles. Due to that some people refer to positive offset wheels as front wheel drive offsets. Currently there are many rear wheel drive cars and trucks with positive offsets. The higher the positive offset the less it sticks out from the vehicle and it will have a higher Backspace. If the mounting surface is moved in toward the vehicle past the centerline, that is a negative offset. A high negative offset will produce a lower Backspace. Once again the measurement in millimeters is how far away from the centerline the mounting surface is. A -24mm offset means that the mounting surface is located 24mm or 1 inch from the centerline toward the vehicle. The wheel will come out farther from the vehicle and will have that deep dish look.

Width
The width of a wheel is measured inside the beads which are usually ½ inches. If you measure on the outside of the beads an 8 inch wheel will measure 9 inches

Backspace
Back spacing is measured from the inner edge of the wheel to the hub mounting surface. It is a convenient measurement in that, as long as the back spacing remains the same, the clearance to the suspension also remains the same. If you know the width of the wheel and the offset you can compute the backspacing. For example if you have an 8 inch wheel with a +24mm offset. An 8 inch wheel is actually 9 inches wide so if the offset were 0 the mounting surface would be right on the centerline and the backspacing would be 4.5 inches. With a positive offset the mounting surface moves off center 24mm or 1 inch toward the outer edge of the wheel. This will make the inner edge go more inside which will result in a 5.5 inch backspacing.

Centerbore
This is the diameter of the center of the wheel. The centerbore must be equal to or larger than the hub of the vehicle for the wheel to seat. If the wheels centerbore is the same as the hub on the wheel then that wheel is hub-centric and uses the hub to center the wheels. If the centerbore is larger than the hub then the lugs will center the wheel and that is lug-centric. When using a lug-centric wheel be sure and snug the lugs up slowly and tighten them in an opposite or star pattern.

Bolt pattern
A bolt pattern of 5x5.5 means it has 5 lugs and if there were a circle through the center of all the lugs the diameter of that circle would be 5.5 inches. On vehicles with an even number of lugs you measure from the center of one lug to the center of the opposite lug.


I also found this interesting calculator that tells you what different tire sizes will do to your speedometer.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Wiring diagrams

More wiring diagrams

Here's a wire color chart to help ID circuits. This is specific for '75 but most wires had the same colors from '66-'77.

Everything you ever wanted to know about Dana axles:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Pinion angle tech:
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/

Ford engine data:
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine.html

Everything you ever wanted to know about Ford 9" axles:
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

Ford engine casting numbers explained:
http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html

Tube bending 101:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/

Gear ratio calculator:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

We used Ice and Water Shield roofing underlayment instead of dyna mat or hush mat for sound proofing. Ice and Water shield is self adheasive and cost less than $80 for an entire roll at Depot. Use a heat gun to soften it up and help it stick.

We used it everywhere in my son's 66 mustang and the difference is increadible. Purchasing dynamat to cover the same area would cost well over $400. We did the entire floor board, roof, kick panels, sail panels, inside the doors etc and had enough left over to do the EB side panels and inside the dors. You can purchase "Window Wrap" tape from Depot as well for a 4 or 6" wide roll that is the same thing for smaller areas.

Shiny!

Dan - that insulation turned out great. What a great add. I have not seen the write up on cb.com so I am happy you shared it here. That saves a lot of $ over the kits at the Vendors for $100.00-150.00.

Dash Layout

Broncos start on page 58.

Lot's of free technical manuals for the Dana axles. I found several for the 30 and 44.



http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf. ... oup=J300-P

airsoft BB tire balancing. (sorry for it being on a big bronco)

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthr ... ggling+101

4R70W auto info:

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00080.html

Great info at the bottom regarding the "best" pick for a Windsor motor swap. We need a 4x4 tranny to swap.

Chad

Killa Hydroboost Pics . . .

Food Stamp Hydroboost Photo!

Driveshaft u-joint info - look out for Ford 1330BC's.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTM ... p_U-Joints

Great driveshaft/u-joint/geometry info (5 parts):
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

Very useful pinion angle info (part 2 of above):
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... ndex2.html

Hands down, the coolest way to measure pinion angle, about 1/2 way down the page, not anywhere else I've searched- props to Zillacon:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1431


Chad

Found this site about how to read a vacuum gauge.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I thought it had some good information.

Brett

That is a cool site, I never knew you could learn so much from a vac gauge.

Here are some links regarding 351M & 400 motors, if anyone was interested. I didn't realize how many I had, so I just included a "few".

First a forum dedicated to Cleveland & 335 motors:
http://www.network54.com/Index/102147

Now a few sources of info:
http://classic-web.archive.org/web/2007 ... rts01.html
http://classic-web.archive.org/web/2005 ... index.html
http://classic-web.archive.org/web/2005 ... erf01.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/ ... ngine.html
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007 ... /index.php
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/proj ... ct682.html
http://www.projectbronco.com/Technical_ ... rumors.htm
http://www.projectbronco.com/Technical_ ... ild_up.htm

Some vendors specializing in Cleveland/335s
First, TMI is a 335 guru:
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/
Next a couple sources for heads & other stuff:
http://www.ausfordparts.com/ausheads.html
http://www.chiheads.com.au/3v_manifolds.php

I've got bunches of forum threads from across the web, even some with 400s in early Broncos. PM me if you want, I'll bombard you with more.

Chad

Disc Brake Conversion and Power Brakes install:

http://www.4x4review.com/Reviews/Produc ... fault.aspx

Hydroboost exploded diagrams and tech tips.

This is a very informative link on basic steering and suspension alignment. I figured I would post it up here for anyone that is doing any suspension work. Its great to have just to refresh your memory or if you want to understand how caster/camber and toe works.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Modding your old school car stereo to take an MP3 player feed. Warning: Written by a French Canadian who admits his English is not perfect.

Good Vehicle Wheel Lug Pattern and Wheel Spacer Information:

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods ... udSpreadMM

A link to the West Coast Broncos Technical Library. All kinds of good stuff here, especially on the Saginaw / 4x4x2 conversion.

http://www.wcb4x4.com/tech/tech.shtml

Cheers!