I'm getting a whole bunch closer to done on my bodywork project and need to figure out paint. Other than the door post and outer rocker the new sheet metal is bare steel. For the interior I'm planning a self-etching primer with bediner to match the rest of the inside. The outside I may primer and then leave it alone until I do my sliders later this summer. I might rattlecan it black or red just to get a little more protection on the metal. I've got a couple of questions related to this:

1. Anyone have a favorite DIY bedliner? I'm only doing the driver's floorboards and kick panel, so I only need a little bit.
2. How bad would it be to use a rattlecan primer and paint? The guys at Sherwin-Williams Automotive down on 42nd are telling me horror stories and suggesting I use something I can spray out of a gun. I'm not super worried about making it pretty, but I do want it to last. I'm also concerned about making sure I've got a good starting point for any future paintwork that is pretty.

The major issue right now is that my compressor is broken and I'm not sure I'll have time to fix it in the near future. I might be able to, but parts would be a week or so out at best. Any advice is appreciated.

Cortez did the Duplicolor liner on his interior and it looked great, really nice texture, color, etc. And he did a ton of prep and followed all of the directions perfectly. However, he came over a week later to return a tool and the floor was already scratched. I would use anything instead of the Duplicolor based on Cortez liner.

My Bronco came with Herculiner and that stuff is strong as heck and cheap. I redid the interior liner after paint and went on really easy and wears really well. I covered it with carpet but liked the gloss black look. I think there are other colors available from their website.

Justin

First, my assumption is that your final, "pretty", paint job will be a 2 stage (color w/clear coat). If you plan on a pretty paint job, from single stage paint, you'll probably be disappointed. If my truck ever gets painted, it will probably be a single stage, but as we discussed, I never expect my truck to be "pretty".

I think the guys are SW are right.

I doubt rattle can primer, or even paint, would last long with exposure to UV & weather. You could do it for temporary protection, but I wouldn't expect much, and I wouldn't plan on painting over it.

There are 2 part primers (primer w/a catyst hardener- not spray paint)that are waterproof, but not as UV resistant as a clear coated paint. And after it was exposed to the elements, I wouldn't plan on ever painting over it, either.

If you use a rattle can paint or primer, now, I'd plan on stripping/sanding it off before you apply your final paint job. Stripping/sanding off the spray paint may sound like more work than it actually would be. We always tried to strip all old paint & primer from old (1960's, and some 1970's)cars because the solvents in the new paint could attack the older paints underneath. If we could pull color off with a lacquer soaked rag, we knew we had to strip off everything, down to bare metal. The solvents in the new paint would "soak" into the old lacquer based paint, and then get trapped there by the clear coat. After a while, and exposure to heat/sun, the old paint would start bubbling from underneath the newer work. I think if you tried it, most spray paints would fail the lacquer rag test, and probably end up failing after you repainted them. Spray paints "dry" when the solvents evaporate out, and can reabsorb solvents in the future. 2 part paints, clear coats and primers use a catalyst and "harden", not dry. They are then more impervious to absorbing solvents. Take a lacquer rag to your new car, nothing will come off, except bugs, tar, etc.

If you use a 2 stage paint now (color & a catalyzed clear coat) you could paint over it in the future. If you use a 2 stage paint, make sure to use a compatible primer, probably from the same brand, it will probably be a catalyzed primer too. Of course, apply a LIGHT coat of etch primer on bare metal before doing your base primer coats. Follow manufacturer's directions, and sticking with one brand's system is safest. Paint incompatibility is a big issue. You don't want your work falling off the truck in a year or two, or even less, because you used one brand of primer & another brand of color & clear.

If you used a single stage paint with hardener, now, you MIGHT be ok shoot over it. But again I'd check with the manufacturers (of both brands) and make sure. I didn't do much painting, and there are so many different brands & types of paints out there you'd want to check with an expert. I'm no paint expert.

I Herculined my tub years ago, and it stuck, mostly. But you won't want to crawl around in the truck in shorts, there is a grit in Herculiner that will take your skin off. Nice for anti-slip, but tough on sensitive skin.

I used Herculiner on my interior. It went on well but scratched really easy all the way to the metal. I would not use Herculiner unless it was only giong to be on a little while. JP

Thanks, guys, keep'em coming! Gunni, based on your description, I think the stuff on my tub may be Herculiner.

I herculined my 79. It's held up really well exect the tailgate. I know why it peels off the tail gate too. I didnt sand the paint.

I have herculiner and its ok. If I would do.it again I would get the spray on kit. It will cost you the same in the long run . I bought my paint from paint forcars.com its a good cheap paint I would stick with solid colors if you have not painted a car before

Get the regular Herculiner and cut it with Xylene. You get 2x the coverage than if you buy it pre cut. Prep it good and spray it. The only problem area I had in my Herculined tub was under my heel between the gas & brake pedals. You can buy a bed liner spray gun for under $30 and do several coats. I sprayed 3 coats from 1 gallon, it went on uniform and except the one spot, still is holding up after 12 years. The only problem I have with Herculiner is that it fades really fast. They make a product specifically for Herculiner that is a UV protectant that I would spray on it too if you want to keep it pretty. I also sprayed my sister's Jeep, the entire inside of the tub, along the rockers & the front of the front fenders. Then I used the UV stuff on it and it has held up great to the sun. She spent the last 7 years in Hawaii with it and it still looks really good.

As far as the primer, I wouldn't use a rattle can to do your primer either. Marhide is a great spray primer because you can build it up to cover up imperfections in the body work. Much better than Rustolieum.