So I am still trying to work the kinks out of my EFi/ top end swap and still couldn't get it idleing right. I took of the drivers head to see if I bent a valve ( had a problem with backfire through tb). Looking at the combustion chambers all looked used except # 5. Clean as it was when I put the new heads on. So I am thinking 2 things
1. No spark igniting
2. No fuel

I am pretty sure that it is getting spark (Tested plug and wire). How can you tell that an injector is good or bad and if it is firing?

Any help would be great, wheeling season is here and I need to get out.

Bobby

I'm not sure how to tell if it is firing. Or if the harness is sending a signal to the injector. But, when I cleaned mine, I clipped off a connector from my old harness. You can hook the injector to the pigtail and touch the pigtail wires to a 9V battery. You could hear it switch, and I blew compressed air through it, blowing the cleaning fluid and junk out.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=82

thanks Gunni. I should probably due this anyway considering I do not know the life of my injectors. Can you get these service kits anywhere or just through the web site?

O rings and filters you should be able to pick up at your local Advanced.

I don't know if this guy has any more sets but I bought a set of these rebuilt and cleaned 19lb injectors and it was a big time saver vs rebuilding mine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220981148812?_t ... IT&vxp=mtr

It did look like one of my injectors was clogged up. Rebuilt them via info from Gunni (thank you) and just have to put the rest of the engine back together. Sucks that I had to take the head off but I figure that would have been the only way to know that #5 injector was clogged and not firing. Cleaning the injectors was easy, only took about 24.5 hours. 24 hours soaking and about 30min. actually cleaning and rebuilding. Hopefully I can have everything back together tomorrow and see how she is when I fire her up.

definitely runnig better know. Don't have the miss. Still need to try and fine tune it a little but it might be good finally. We'll see.

Rebuilding the injectors was easy. Highly suggest anytime you do a efi swap and do not know the conditions of the injectors to clean and rebuild them. Cheap insurance.

Did you get some hardened pushrods?

Yes I did, new pushrods and new guideplates. Couldn't find the same as the one that broke so just bought all new. Figured that would be better. Think I have to adjust the timing some and then should be fine. If not we will have to get together soon and take another look at it if possible. I will let you know.
Thanks Viper

It is never ending. i have a horrible oil leak coming from the bell housing. How hard is it to replace the rear main. Should I go ahead and put a new clutch in it as everything will be off? Never had a problem with it but i figure might as well since I am there. What do you guys think?

This is an old block right? Just need to remove the pan and rear main cap to change the seal. The newer blocks need the trans removed because the seal goes into the end of the crank.

Are you sure it's not coming from the rear of the intake? If the oil runs down the back of the block it can run into the bell housing. IF you didn't change anything except top end stuff and it's now leaking that's most likely the culprit.

it always somewhat leaked from there, not bad but it did. Seems like all old 302's did. I figured since it has been about a year since it was driven the seal could have gone bad. I will keep looking to see if it is something else.

here are some pics on my facebbok page. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 182&type=3

You've done a nice job fixing her up.

As far as the manifold rear seal is concerned, most people just leave both end seals out and run a thick bead of silicone. That way your seal is as thick or thin as it needs to be. It will allow the head to intake gaskets to seal properly without holding it up.

That is what I did. Maybe today I can take a peak and see where it is coming from.

looks like the leak is definitely coming front th rear main. Engine still will not idle correctly and wont stay running by itself. I know tomorrow is the 4th but anybody interested in coming over and trouble shooting. If not tomorrow then maybe on Sunday. Let me know.

What time are you thinking for Sunday and what part of town are you in? I don't know how much help I will be but I would be glad to come over and help anyway I can.

I am thinking about 11:00 or so. i am in Aurora about Illif and 225. give me a call if you want.

Bobby
303-886-0959

I can prob swing by on Sunday as well, I can help with the rear main, fuel injection issues are another story, I know Phil has helped in the past so I'd see if he's around and looking for a garage to set up his cot in.

If you tomorrow, are still planning on working on on your engine I plan to be there.

yes I will be there, or here.
My address
2230 s vaughn way #202
aurora, co 80014

look for the red dodge pu
around 11:30

Sorry Bob, got started power washing the deck (boss lady can be a real slave driver sometimes). If I get done soon enough I will give you a call.

Update: Kinder and the boy wonder came over and got some testing done. KOEO codes came up: 22, 51, 53, 54, 35, 81, 82, 84, 85. Some of these are the egr codes which shouldn't matter but the others are pointing to the tps. We measured the tps and it is only moving about 10 millivolts. Looks like it might be bad so will try to trouble shoot that a little more then will update.

Thank you Kinder for coming over.

it is a reowrked harness by Kolibar customs. How do I check the signal return wire. Is there a proper way or do I need to undo the loom and trace it back to its beginnings?

It goes from every one of those sensors to the ECU, pin 46. Use an ohmmeter and check it from end to end. If it isn't open in the harness it will be open in the ECU. Usually you'll get a code 67 though.

A little info from Ric Kolibar who reworked my harness. Sent him my problems and this is his response.

"It sounds like something with the signal ground wire, this may be
because of a failing sensor, a bad computer, or the main ground is not
good, or a brake in the wiring harness.

The computer pin 46 signal ground is a critical component: it
provides ground for the Map/Baro, TPS, ECT, EGR position sensor and
ACT. Signal ground is used in many circuits that have analog inputs to
isolate the electrical noise. It is always separate from power ground,
although both may have a common connection origination point. Signal
ground usually has some conditioning that reduces the electrical noise
to prevent false readings

The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer.
It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Map/Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS
sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode.
If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will
have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. What sometimes
happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to
power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc
board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 &
60, the main power ground.

If the ground for the TPS goes bad, the TPS output voltage
increases and the idle speed goes up.

Troubleshooting signal ground problems:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off.
Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false
readings and possibly damage the meter.
1.) With the power off, measure the resistance between the
computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and
battery ground. You should see less than 2.0 ohms.

2.) MAP circuit: Check the resistance between the black/white wire
on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and
the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohms. Higher
resistance than 1 ohms indicates a problem with the 10 pin connector
or the splice inside the main harness where the wire from the 10 pin
connectors joins the rest of the black/white wire. Next check the
resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery
cable. It should be less than 2.0 ohms.

3.) Engine mounted sensor circuit: Check the resistance between
the black/white wire on the TPS and battery ground. It should be less
than 2.0 ohms. Higher resistance than 2.0 ohms indicates a problem
with the 10 pin connector or the splice inside the main harness where
the wire from the 10 pin connectors joins the rest of the black/white
wire.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/ ... ost7490537
for Joel5.0’s fix to the computer internal signal ground."

just in case anybody else ends up with a similar issue

That's what I said, without all the fluff.