Saturday afternoon, a 74 Bronco w/79 Bronco axles and a 15 year old James Duff 3.5" lift, looked like this:



It has a small amount of front end rake, probably due to the bow in the front coils, mounted to the wider lower spring perches on the 79 axles.



Subtract 1 set of 15 year old JD 3.5" coils and leaf springs, add 1 set of 5.5" front coils (JBG progressive), and one set of 3.5" WH rear 11 leaf springs.

The front coils are about 7 years old (0 miles), and NOT the linear Deavers. The best I can tell, they are progressive Superlift, have a stiff reputation and a higher spring rate than WH, Deavers, BCBs, etc. The WH leafs are 6 months old (0 miles).






What is the final "attitude" of the Bronco? (front end high? level? rear end high?)

Your guess? I should have it all together tomorrow.

The answer is that the rear end will sit higher than the front end. Even a little more rake than before.



The bow in my front coils is eating up a bunch of the lift.



After installing the new springs, the front 5.5" coils only added about 3/4" of lift over my old 3.5" coils. It sat perfectly level last night on the new 5.5" coils and my old 3.5" springs. My old rear springs measured about a 2.5" lift.



I'm going to relocate the lower spring perch inward, and straighten the springs up. That should lift the front end enough.

A few things are worrying me.

First, my drive shaft is nearly fully extended sitting flat. I found my old receipt from JBG when I lifted the truck. The driveshaft measured the same before the lift as the measurement I ordered: 35" between center of u-joint caps. With the new suspension, the measurement is only 1" longer, 36", but I have almost no more slip. How much should I have with the truck sitting flat?

Second, I did not swap my shackles, I know I'll have to soon. It looks like my shackle hangers have opened up, there is 1/4" between the shackle & hanger. Is this normal? The shackle will slide back and forth on the bolt.



I need to address the front coils, and shocks now. I think I know what I'm going to do about the front lower perches. Anyone have a suggestion for rear upper shock mounts with out a body lift?

WH has a good option if you're willing to cut into the rear wheelwells.

Just browsing options right now. Not sure I want to cut into my interior that much.

Don't think inboard shocks are the way to go for me. I've got lots of leverage with the f/w axles, and would be afraid of loosing driveabililty.

I want it all! Long shock, good drivablility, no interior cutting. I think I can do it, but its going to be "homemade". The f/w axles give me some room to move the lower shock mount out, and therefore the upper shock mount too. What about the WH set up but mounted inside the wheel well?

Booger runs the inboard rear on his. Works awesome and no stability issues at all.

Thanks guys, I'm not sure why I got on the rear shock tangent, I have more pressing issues.

There is something "off" with my rear set up. With my old rear springs, I noticed that the axle was not centered under the bumpstops. And it was closer to the rear shock mount than it should be. My axle was centered 11-5/8" from the rear shock mount, not 12-3/4".
http://cdn.wildhorses4x4.com/downloads/ ... -08-06.pdf

So I installed my new leafs using the 1" set back on the spring perches, thinking it would replicate where the axle used to set, and what I had the driveshaft built for, 15 years ago. That has not worked, and its even further back, roughly 2" from the center of the bumpstop. (BTW the rear shock mount to the center of the bumpstop is 12-3/4" just like the instructions.) The added distance, and height have extended my driveshaft too far.

A question for you guys:
Is the rear axle centered under the bumpstops on your truck?

First, I'm going to move the axle forward untill the driveshaft fits. I read your driveshaft should be 1/2 compressed or slightly more, with the truck sitting flat. With more room for suspension drop than compression? I'm also going to try to measure the driveshaft length with the suspension compressed & unloaded. Can anyone suggest a way of compressing the rear suspension to its max? I was thinking 2" ratchet straps from the axle to the frame.

Then I'm going to deal with the front coils, and see how it all sets before doing much more.

What bump stops?? Never had a need for them and with 5.5" of lift, I doubt you will either. (wait this is mr. Duke's of Hazard tho right??). Ok, so I do have them, but they are a fair bit forward of the axle (I have my axle moved back 1"). Honestly I wouldn't worry about it at all.

Your bushings in your shackles are gone. Replace them.

Truck sits real nice now! Good work!

I have 3.5" WH springs and inboard shocks. I think the key is adjustable shocks tho to dial in the ride. But know that you will wear out your shocks a little more in an inboard config because the axis of travel is not straight vertical, which is what most shocks are designed for.

Your driveshaft is an issue. Disconnect it, jack the truck up until the rear tires come just off the ground. Your driveshaft should still be able to mount up in case you ever turtle on a rock or something. If not you'll have to extend it. The other issue is with the amount of droop the double cardan will allow too. Probably ok with a stock D20, but if your drivetrain gets any longer (Atlas) then you may have to "massage" your double cardan joint or buy a $$$$ high angle driveshaft.

As for compressing your suspension, I think it'll be difficult. Maybe find a contractor who needs a load of quick-crete hauled across town??

I will add that an issue with my springs has come about on my trip to Moab. I was climbing a steep rock and the rear bumper was dragging on a rock at the bottom. My rear tires had enough traction to pull the rear tires into the steep rock. Once up, my bronco felt funny. All but the main leafs in the pack were resting below the spring hanger. Happened a couple more times until I wrapped bailing wire around all the leaves. Tom's is working with me on how to remedy the situation.

I'm wondering if anyone with a truck that hasn't moved the axle back, if the axle is directly under the bumpstop.

I'm going to work through the driveshaft issue. My thought is that if I move the axle forward 1" or even 2", the driveshaft will be ok, and will line the axle up with the bumpstop- you might be right, I"m not sure I NEED bumpstops, I'll start looking.

On my current set up, I put the shocks in front of the rear axle,the top shock mounts are 11-5/8" forward of the axle. The WH instructions say 12-3/4" is correct. I based my measurements on the distance between my axle & the rear shock mount, which was wrong, the axle apparently was already set back 1" from stock. Last year on Chinamen, I blew out a shock, and started ripping the upper mount off the frame.

So my short-term plan is to move the axle forward until my driveshaft is OK. Then remove & remount my shock mounts based on where my axle ends up. That will get the truck trail ready, maybe not ideal though. Still thinking about Clint's stuff, and if his rear suspension comes out, I may swap again. I'll reevaluate shocks, shock mounts, etc, probably get a longer driveshaft then too. So I don't want to make any expensive changes just yet.

I've driven the truck around town, and it drives nice and smooth. Much better than the old springs. It is somewhat nose low, and I'd like level the truck out better. Its now definitely, 1" or more taller, I can tell jumping in and out.

JD, I can't really picture what your leafsprings did. Did all the small leafs slide forward or backward on the longer leafs?

No, but you have the idea right. The drivers side spring is the one with the issues. But it's identical to the passenger side in regards to alignment, near as I can tell. I don't really know how it happened. Unless the axle was pushed back prior to compression and the leaf below the main caught just under the spring hanger before it compressed.

From my standpoint, longer wheel base is better. I know lengthening and shaft is expensive, but I understand you not wanting to do that right now.

Yep, I agree that the longer w/b is better, and I'm planning on replacing/lengthening my driveshaft, but only want to do it once.