Starting this thread early - "Wilma" is still leaning up against the side of the garage (hoping the HOA does not notice her there) and I am cleaning up some other projects as well as the garage itself to make some room for the build. I am making plans, looking for parts etc. Here are the very early, very subject to change, plans:

Mostly something different and interesting:

1971 bronco
stretch the frame 12-16"
stretch the tub the same
build a "three quarter" cab. So think of more like an extended cab pick up (without the rear seat)
300I6. Fuel injected of course
Auto trans (have no idea which one)
33"-35" tires (I do want to fit in the garage)
Dana 44, Ford 9" (disk brakes all around)
Traction aids (lockers - limited slip.... this is one of those undecided items)
PS, PB.....
Custom bumpers, winch up front.

So folks, you will be seeing a lot of posts and pic's a long the way, as well as a ton of questions and requests for advice. It is my goal to build a fairly capable, rather comfortable, reliable, daily driver that I can take off road on moderate to moderately difficult trails. I am not looking for extreme in terms of trails, rocks etc.


This is the way she looked the first time I laid eyes on her, my sons had given her to me for Fathers Day.

Subscribing! I've often thought of extending mine some to get better wheelbase for wheeling, but also add room in the cab for family and gear.

Sounds like a great project and it will be fun to see how it goes. Cargo is SO lacking in Broncos and this is an interesting way to resolve the problem.

Subscribing and willing to lend a hand when I can

Well, I finished cleaning the garage, everything is off the floor, on shelves, hooks or pegs. Tommorow I am going through the tool chest, organizing and sorting. And cleaning the work bench, then I will power wash the floor and bring the frame in so I can start measurements and layout.

Only took me 16 hours to get this far!

Let me know when you are cutting, I'd like to help and would like to see your thought process on it.

Will do Sir. Absolutely!

What are your thoughts on using full width axles? Will they effect things like turning radius much? I am already lengthing the wheel base so it is going to be changed there. I do not want to lose the mobility. Part of the fun of driving them is how tight they turn.

Full width axles will keep you from rubbing your radius arm, so I don't think you'll lose much turning radius.

I wish I could find one that a guy in TX did. Was pretty awesome. Let me see if I can find pics.

You will lose some turning radius, mostly from the extended wheel base. Good start, keep it up!

ya go full width 8 lug!

thats what i want to do..

My fullsize turns amazingly well.. like.. stupid amazingly... so i dont think the axles would limit you so much as the length of the vehicle...

1966 Ford Short Bed - $200

My full widths increased my turning radius but the longer wheelbase will take some away from u, you've seen my rig before at the bumper build class, I looked over your land rover abortion! I would strongly recommend full widths, 78-79 d44 work fine that's what I have, or 76-77 f150 is best as its the same axle, but the c's weld on and the axle tubes are .500" wall thickness, no earlier than 76 as that was the first year for disc brakes on 4wd fords. I would recommend the 78-79 d44 as its easier to come by, and cheaper, and since you're building from the frame up cut the upper coil buckets off and move them outward on the frame, it's the best way to do it because it keeps the coils closer to the wheel as ford designed it and will give you a better ride quality, and more stability, relocating the lower coil buckets is how I did mine and it works, but leaves something to be desired as faras ride quality goes. This weekend I'm swapping a Dana 60 under the back and doing a knuckle out to 8 lug on the front FW d44 I plan to relocate the rear spring hangers back 3 inches and get rid of the lower cup relocation brackets I made and push the uppers out 2 inches from the frame on each side, I'll try to get some pics as I go

Ok - so now you all have me thinking really hard about the full width axles. I will look into it further. How about the downside? Anyone?

Remember - I have nothing under the frame now - no suspension, no brakes, no lines - nada. I don't mind the idea of moving the spring buckets as part of my fabrication at all.

I think the first purchase needs to be the axles so I can then start on suspension and cutting/extending the frame.

Sounds like I am on the hunt for some 76-79 axles, unless someone can come up with a good reason why not! (like and incredible deal on a set of EB axles that I can plop under the frame right away)

Given your stretch, I'd be pretty inclined to go full width. The additional stability would make for a heck of a rock rig. I've thought about it for my truck, someday. Saw this on Craigslist recently. Not sure how good the price is, but this seems like a great starting point:

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/3062211758.html

Also, check out the second entry on this, might just be your ticket:

http://www.jamesduff.com/newproducts/new_eb.asp

these are calling your name

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=208002

I really like that Duff Stuff to solve the spring issue and the rear 4-link is sweet.

I think it would be WAY easier to find wheels and tires for 8-lug than 5 on 5.5.

OK, I have some specs for ya:
Np 435, np203/ dana 20 doubler
14blt rear w/ Detroit and 4.56 gears
Dana 60 w/ Detroit and 4.56 gears

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20887

Overall stretch was 10-12" he says.





If it were me, I'd try to get a bench seat in behind the front seats and leave the rest for gear...

Ok folks,

This is the basis of my inspiration, except I plan to extend the tub, not install pick up bed. Also I will have glass behind the doors in the "rear seat" area. Though I do not plan to install any rear seats, just more room inside the cab etc.

http://www.broncofix.com/download.php?id=8802

(ok this may be the first time I am not able to post a picture - because I do not know how to upload this pic to my photobucket account)

All - I think I am convinced to go with the full widths. The search is on!

Justin - I reached out to the seller of those axles last night, have not heard back from him yet. The ad is 2 weeks old tho so they may be gone.

Chris - really tempted by that bed to reconsider my previous plans - or just for the sheet metal... Might have to reach out to him as well (My wife will kill me if I bring home more big parts before I have it in the garage)

Greg, if a pic is already hosted online, right click on it and "copy image location" or something to that effect.

Click the reply button on this forum, and look for the 'Img" button above your reply. Click it and it'll put some code in and locate your cursor in the middle, paste the location from the picture and viola!

so, an extended cab Bronco pick-up truck ?

Ok guys - I just received an email response from a guy who has had his ad on CL for several weeks.

Here is his response:

Hi Greg,
I do still have both 44's the complete one has 3:50 gears the housing has the 4:10 gears also have spring buckets, radius arms, all the brackets & even the shock brackets. I can make a package deal on all or whatever your interested in. The only thing is I'm out of town right now. But you can still contact me by phone text or email.

And here is his ad text (there were no pic's):

COMPLETE HIGH PINON DANA 44 WITH 3:50 GEARS OUT OF BRONCO/F-150 (COIL SPRING WITH RADIUS ARMS)
HIGH PINON DANA 44 HOUSING WITH 4:11 GEARS, STEERING KNUCKLES &
CALIPER MOUNTS OUT OF A F-150/BRONCO (COIL SPRING WITH RADIUS ARMS)
RADIUS ARMS / SPRING BUCKETS & BRACKETS

Thoughts? What questions should I ask? Do I want one, or neither? If so, how much should I offer?

I think you'll want the 4.10's minimum. So you may have to go for the package deal. We got my cousin a complete HP44 for his rig. I think it was $300 IIRC. You can swap all the guts from the complete axle to the other housing, but only after you replace axle seals. etc. Maybe consider trussing it as well.

I'd consider building your own arms from a Battlement Fab kit. But the CL ones may make good spares for Drew's rig.

Explain to Clint what you want and he'll help you out. Mine has a lot more body roll after the kit, but that could be controlled by a sway bar if so inclined. Or maybe just swap out the Johnny Joints in the kit with Bushings?? That's the only draw-back to the kit IMO and for a crawler like mine, not an issue. It allows you to adjust caster to get your pinion angle dialed in. Just make sure the axles you are getting have weld-on wedges. It is stronger than stock as well.

If the axles you end up getting have cast on wedges we could build you a set of extended arms from the set you get for 200-300 or have my friend build them for you for a little more, and mine is a little more stable than JD's rig and I daily drive it

Greg if you want I would be more than willing to help you pull a d60 rear out of the pick n pull. I have done a ton of research and have pulled a few already so know which are best. Plus love visiting the pnp ;).

I would see of you can check out the 44's in person as well as the gears. But hp d44 are pretty plentiful in the jy as well. If I remember axles are about $120 up here regardless size and type.

Also I think I have a set of big bearing d44 / 10 bolt spindles for the 8 lug you should do - I think that rig would look sweet with 1 ton outers.

You can get pretty much everything you need out of the jy.

I work with a guy who has a D60 rear for sale. He said it has 4.1 gears in it. I think he wants $200. Dont remember which yr he said it came out of.

Was at the pick n pull today...