Moving that tank freed up a ton of room.

Yup. Now I need to figure out how to mount it. The PO cut the legs down on the tank and I forgot the fuel lines are on the frame. Duh. Will look at it this week and figure it out

We could weld some extensions on the tank if needed.

ya thats what iam thinking.. I actually need a few things welded as well if your willing to. The parking brake bracket is tearing away from the body, the clutch linkage is bending for some reason... prbably needs a little brace.

Lets circle up later this week or maybe even this weekend. I'm pretty close to being done with the wiring and will need a few days to check the suspension, drivetrain and run the vapor canister...

My garage is always open & even has a little more space now that I've kicked Willem's bronco out.

Well moab was fun and tested the rig pretty well. Broke some stuff wont know the full extent until i get unloaded and the bronco on jack stands to start an inspection but hopefully nothing too major.

Engine ran like a raped ape - sounds like a older nascar.. really wrung it out a few times and ran perfectly.. very fun in the sand at 3500 RPM in 2nd and equally nice to let it crawl in granny gear ;D

As far as the damage is concerned its mostly suspension parts...

So far I know I will need new ubolts, leaf spring plates and retaining pins for the rear leafs/axle.

at least one new brake line for the right rear axle tube brake line.

new seals for right rear 9 inch.

Possibility new shocks for the rear.. and I have decided on picking up a set of these shock mounts...



they are the Shock Jock Rear Shock Mounts which should allow me to move my shock mounts up enough to allow longer travel in the back without bottoming out my shocks. Just hope at least one of my shocks is still good back there!

I also have several other items to attend to, i have some noise coming from the front suspension hoping its just lose coil retainers..

Also will be doing a TRO up front.. and testing my TRE's as i think one is shot...

Glad to hear it Chris! Sounds like you are pleased! I hope no buyers remorse??

When replacing your spring plates, don't forget to look into moving the rear axle back 1". That does help a little.

Also, for shocks, ever consider moving them inboard? Trouble is, then I'd recommend adjustable shocks to dial it in. You will gain some body roll. If you want to stay outboard, is it possible for you to mount the eyes on each end of the shock perpendicular to each other? If they are both the same direction, you will get some bind.

JD we had talked about all shock mounting options.

And getting to wheel this truck around some it is a very capable rig. Took everything we threw at it.

Ya I have thought about inboard shocks but I'm going to drive it in the road and highway quite often and wanted the best road manners possible. After some research I think raising the shock mount a few inches should work without adding body roll or having to use a sway bar. I think this solution will allow me to use the same shocks, and axle mounting locations.

started tearing into the rear suspension and axle to fix a few tweaks that happened in Moab.

Removed all the Ubolts and plates.. going to replace them with beefier versions.. also will need a new centering pin.

Removed the axle shaft as well as i developed a leak on the passenger side. Found part of the seal torn and missing so will add a new seal, collar and bearing to the order as well!

I love your builds/fixes etc. Your documentation is impeccable!

Looks like some sort of anti-axle wrap device was installed? What are the details on that? No longer in use?

Nice! I wouldn't mind something like that.

I talked to a few people and decided to run what I have as with these 5/8's U bolts and new HD plates when they are torqued down to 130 ft lbs they shouldn't move. I will of course recheck the torque after a few drives..

The summer after I installed my lift, a u-bolt loosened up and my axle shifted on my first "off-road" experience. I broke a leaf pin too. Shifted so bad, the park brake engaged. Me, my friend, and our 2 wet dogs had to walk 9 miles to call a friend to pick us up. The only person who passed us was driving a new Lexus SUV and I knew they weren't going to pick up 2 longhairs with big wet dogs.

Moral of the story; check and tighten your bolts after 100 miles, just like the destructions say.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

destructions? ha.. we dont need no destructions... ;)

for sure.. i already walked the axle once but that anti wrap bar saved my butt.. I heard something but didn't know what it was, made it another 6 miles or so on poison spider before Rob saw the axle moving around, probably could have finished the trail with it as is.. but for sure would have broke more stuff.

That should do it! But it looks like the center pin is in the center hole? Don't want to shift it back that one little inch?

My bet is you'll be ok now. Just keep checking them. Each time I crawl under my bronco, I pretty much check those u-bolts.

I might be removing that 6 degree wedge and mounting another shock mount but need some measurements first. Might move it back we will see.

Adding some flair to my ride...



Also found out I customized my oil pan in Moab

Nice custom work, I expect a little of that in my future.

Mine looks the same. Self clearancing is exact.

yup not too worried about it and dont think it will be hitting anymore than it has been so should be good to go.

good news everyone!

all my shocks are good.. the front 7100's were not evenly charged but got that taken care of.. now I just need to flip the rear brakes and that should be it for now!

If anyone needs any shock work done or you need racing supplies, parts speed shop stuff highly recommend Leary's racing shocks in Englewood, great guys have done allot of shock work for me and they are highly knowledgeable.. they have lots of parts as well..

So in between testing for a blown head gasket I decided to at least wire everything for the puller fans I pulled out of a range rover in the Junk yard. I mocked up the fans hooked up everything with the adjustable thermostat and an over ride switch. I set them to come on at 225F and they turn off right around 205F or so.. seem to work really well.

I'm going to have to get some tabs welded onto the front core support to secure the fans but overall looks like they will fit and cool greatl. I think I will have to trim some of the fan on one side to sit as flat as possible against the radiator as it cools much more efficiently that way.

What adjustable thermostat did you use? I have only seen the one that you install a probe in the upper radiator neck.

That's the one I have. I'm going to go ahead and install it into the radiator hose. I had it stuck into the fins testing it out but it sticks out too far to leave it there.

I used that one my kids 99 Cherokee and did not have any issues with it leaking. Just thought there might be something different that you did not have to go through the hose.

I have that same stat and when I installed it in the upper hose I couldn't keep it from leaking. I have it strapped to the upper corner of the radiator and it works fine. In fact last friday when I drove it was the first time I heard it come on with the stat. I have it set around 205-210.