Ok guys, I have been out of the game for a while but...I hope to be out and about in the Bronco soonest! A couple of lingering issues / questions.

1. Finally got a distributor / vacuum advance issue fixed, but now at higher RPM the engine seems to flood out. Is this simply a jetting issue on the Edelbrock carb or a fuel pressure issue (even though I still just have the mechanical fuel pump), or some combination of things or something else altogether -- anyone have any thoughts?

2. Mechanic friend looking at the suspension says instead of 7 degrees of camber, he said it is either 0 or negative so that when the weight hits the front, it goes all squirrely on him. And, that when it goes all squirrely and your natural tendency is to hit the brakes, that makes it all much worse! Said all that it wants to do when you get up to 35 or 40 mph is go left and roll on its right side. He won't drive it anymore and says that it is un-driveable. All that we have done is add 2 inch blocks to the rear and slightly taller springs in the front. Honest, I can't remember exactly what they were as it has been to long now. I think I got them from Zack -- maybe they were 3 inch WH springs? I replaced the dried cracked old C-bushings with new 7 degree C-bushings. I replaced the original track bar with an adjustable track bar and that is about it. Again, anyone have any thoughts?

One probably irrelevant point -- and I am not even sure that this is unusual. But when you stomp on the gas, the rear axle (under load) tilts upwards towards 12 o'clock from 3 o'clock. At rest (w/o load), the rear axle sits at closer to 3 o'clock than to 12 o'clock. If the rear axle is not supposed to rotate like that, I am not sure why mine does -- and I am not sure if that has anything to do with the death roll at 35 to 40 mph.

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

John.

1. Mechanical fuel pump should be able to supply anything a relatively stock engine needs. Mine did the same till I advanced the timing and rejetted the carb.

2. Verify the camber with a degree indicator. If you don't have one they're about $15 at Harbor Freight or most hardware stores. If camber is around 7 degrees then you may have a bad ball joint or rod end. The rear axle death roll as a 30 degree swing under load is significant. Have you checked for a broken leaf in the springs?

Justin --

Sounds about right on the timing and the carb, but I wanted to be sure. I have to dig out my carb tuning guide -- it has been a while since I first did it. I will pick up a degree indicator and have a look. Ball joint / tie rod end are possibilities, as I have not worked my way out there yet. I am hoping that the rear axle issue is related to not enough torque in the u-bolts that hold the new 2" blocks and axle in place. I have my fingers crossed.

Thanks again for the thoughts!

John.

Howdy John,

Needless to say, don't drive that sucker.

I would check the ubolts and leaf spring centering pins to see if they are loose.

Pics of the blocks in the rear would help.

Also, when you put the taller coil springs in, did you do anything to re-align the drag link to the track bar ? Usually folks install a drop pitman arm on the steering box and a trac bar lowering bracket (or a trac bar riser on the passenger side of the axle)

John I'll be by to look at it soon, did you get a print out from the alignment?
I need to know what caster is and what camber and toe are at. Caster won't be at 7 degrees even though you have 7 degree bushings , with your lift I'm guessing some where in the range of 3-5 degrees positive, I'm sure the bushings are in correct, I can bring mine over to compare without disassembling the front end, also check your ball joints , IFIRC it had a loose steering joint I had pointed out, either way you need to call me as soon as possible so I can come over and figure out the issue, I'm assuming you meant caster not camber because. 7 degrees of camber isn't possible knowing how your truck sits, I still want to check over everything like we had talked about since I had found loose bolts and fittings everywhere I looked last time I was underneath your bronco, I just want to help make sure it's safe before you put it on the road, I'm available tomorrow almost all day or Sunday from morning to early afternoon so please call me.

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Thanks guys --

I have to pry the Bronco away from my mechanic friend! He has been a great help with some of the nagging issues that have kept me from getting it on the road. I am pretty sure that the pins are still in place, but I suspect I did not torque the bolts quite enough. As soon as I can post some pictures, I will. I suspect it will be tomorrow or Monday. As far as re-aligning the drag link to the track bar, I have not done it yet. I am sure that I need to. I didn't realize it could have that much of an impact on the steering! Unfortunately I don't have a print out of any kind of an alignment yet -- hopefully I will get that tomorrow or Monday as well.

v/r,

JP.

Realigning the draglink will have no effect, it's only for steering wheel centering, we already centered the axle, you might check the jam nut on the trac bar and jack it up and check the ball joints for play when you get it back


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Oh I thought you were speaking in terms of centering, you mean angles in relation to each other, I'm dumb, lol, ya IFIRC they are, he just doesn't have a drop trac bar bracket or pitman arm, so the angle may be a little much from what I believe is a 3.5" lift, but not enough to cause his concern, I believe it is being caused by a loose or worn part, incorrect alignment angles, possible cracked frame near trac bar bracket or steering box as it's common, or the slight possibility of a bad tire which I think is highly unlikely, either way I need to get over there when he gets it back. And even if the trac bar and drag link are at different angles it will cause bumpsteer but not a pull


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