Looking forward to your build. Wish I was closer to help out. Good luck and can't wait to see your progress.

Last night and today, I made some progress. It's irreversable. If that is good or bad, we'll see.

First, I pulled the passenger fender & door. I knew there was poorly repaired damage on the A-pillar. But I'd never pulled my fenders off. Well, crap, way worse than I expected.

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The A-pilllar was pushed forward, making my passenger door opening almost 1/2" bigger than the driver side.

So I cut the inner fender well free from the firewall/A-pillar.
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Did I mention I brought some tools home from work? This hydraulic, double ended hook pulls itself together with a port-a-power pump.

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I was able to pull the A-pillar back to within 1/8"-3/16" of the driver side. Its not hard to move it around, really. I brought a 10 ton ram home, but my 4 ton set worked easily.

I was able to cut both inner fenders & fender walls out, before I called it quits.

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Tomorrow, hopefully I can cut the track bar bracket, upper coil spring buckets & radius arm brackets off. I'll then set the steering box & axle forward as much as possible. I'll build a new front clip around the end product. I want to run some inner fenders to keep dirt/dust out of the engine, but they will be minimal.

Wow that sucks about the pillar, looks like you've made some good progress, I'm looking forward to how this turns out!


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Tube it! :)

I love the press/puller. That's what I need on my passenger door

Tough work today. Got the upper coil spring mounts and track bar mount cut off the frame. Also cut the driver side body mount to make room for the 4x4x2 box. The front bolt of the steering box will be close to the rear bolt/nut in the bumper frame reinforcement. Hopefully they don't interfere.

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I'd like to tie my front end into my cage, but I'm not sure its in the scope of this project. I can visualize a core support & fender hangers made from some square tubing & bolted through the firewall. But I'm not sure I'm ready to build a structural front end, yet. We'll see.

I'm planning to build the front end to be fairly easy to remove, so hopefully, adding a structural tube frame to the front won't be too much work. I can already appreciate cutting everything apart. Fitting the steering gear & cutting off the suspension was much easier without the extra bodywork. I want inner fenders, but easily removed for access through the wheel wells.

I know you said you are going to plate the frame for the 4x4x2 box, but what about sleeving it? I happen to have some 1/2" ID 120 wall DOM set aside to use for sleeving 1/2" bolts.

I have a bunch of 3/16" plate here, I am going to plate both sides of the frame.

I'm going to add sleeves, but will also be sleeving my ZF & Atlas crossmemebers, so I'm going to need about 3' or 4'. I was going to use SCH40 because getting a small amount of DOM is tough in Gunnison. If you have that much to sell, I'd buy it. If not, I'll find something.

Fastenal? Mcmaster? Order something up and bolts too.

I'll measure what I have at home, I bet I can give up 3'.

Pulled the auxiliary fuel tank. 95% sure it won't be reinstalled. Cut the radius arm mounts loose & pushed them forward 2". This should help me gain a little up travel in my suspension. I'm hoping the diff will clear the exhaust a little better. My diff was hitting my exhaust about the same point my 33's hit my inner wheel wells. So moving them up and adding some clearance for my diff will be real usable space.

Next step should be to check all my steering & track bar linkage, and set my track bar bracket & coil buckets. I'm going to pull the pitman arm off the 79 Bronco box, and the drop arm I have on my EB box. I've got a stock arm too. I have a WH 78/79 track bar riser. It keeps the track bar in single shear, so I'll probably mod it to make it double shear, and maybe ready for hydro assist.

I won't get back to this till next week, at least. I have to swap my ball joints on my F250, and that will probably kill any free time I'll have this weekend.

Baby steps Chad, just keep at it!

I haven't gotten much concrete done lately, but a lot of measuring & head scratching.

I pulled all the pitman arms off the 3 boxes I have, getting the "4x2" & "4x4" box ready to swap guts, and the drop pitman off my stock Bronco PS box.

I test fitted the 4x4 box with the drop arm & stock arm, and the axle moved 2" forward of where it was. I was having similar tie rod/pitman arm interference as Justin. Moving the box forward or the axle back so the tie rod & arm clear adds about another 1-1/4" up travel before the radius arms hit the frame. I figure I'll set up for max up travel. I'm pushing the steering box forward another 1/8"-1/4", whatever is possible without cutting off my body mount, and moving the axle back whatever it takes for full clearance. I'll get close to 2" forward. I'm also going to replace my radius arm rod ends at the frame, with the high misalignment bushing Digger recommended.

Today I drilled out my frame horn brace/bumper brace for the forward most bolt hole/sleeve for the steering gear.

In preparation to start building, I've done a little work on my tools. I installed the air dryer & filter that was on my Bronco OBA, onto my home air compressor. I didn't have a compressor at home when I built the OBA, and I got the filter set from the old body shop I worked for. It was inadequate for the paint booth, but a very nice setup for the house. I'll move the cheap filter I had on the compressor to the Bronco. I got a really small filter to put on the plasma cutter, I was told it will help with the life of the tips, and ultimately the torch.

I also replaced the blade on my horizontal band saw. A pulley set screw came loose & the blade broke just before Moab. I haven't gotten around to aligning everything and replacing the blade till today. Did I mention, I love my band saw. I didn't realize how much I missed it till I cut a little with it today. So much better than the abrasive cut off saw!

Yesterday, I brought my ZF home from the storage unit & started test fitting the Atlas. I have the 1" spacer, but checked to see if cutting the ZF output shaft would allow me to remove the spacer. The length of the output shaft is not the problem, it is the "length" of available splines on the ZF that bottom out on the input shaft of the Atlas. I only needed about 1/16", maybe 1/8" to clear. I contacted Advance Adapters & they are going to swap my 1" spacer for a 1/2" spacer. Just trying to keep this all as short as possible.

Sorry nothing to really show, so I don't have any pictures.

Although I'd love to clock the Atlas flat, I really need to accept that its not going to happen right now. If I could afford tires & gears, right now, I'd do the 2" BL needed. I read that I'll have 2 clocking options, short of flat. The "flatter" option involves a cutting the frame, similar to the cuts you made to your frame, but at the bottom, instead of the top. I might do that, I might just install it without any mods, and wait till I can do it right. I want to see it in the truck before I make that decision. I really want to get the Bronco up and running before it gets too cold to work in my garage, so I may take the easy way out. It will only be a couple years before I make the jump to bigger tires & do a BL & clock it flat.

I got a great deal on my 37s off craigslist. Just sayin'...

Baby steps.

Finished drilling the frame & made the outside frame plate from some 3/16" plate, and tacked things in place. I've cut the inside frame plate, will need to drill & place it next.

Let me just say, this job would suck with inner fenders. I should have cut them out years ago. They will definitely will be rebuilt with ease of removal in mind.

Although I haven't posted up, I have been making slow progress.

I've finished strengthening the frame for the new 4x4x2 box. I've plated the frame sides, top & bottom & added pipe reinforcements across the frame & my 2x4 frame horn/bumper brackets. I've also removed the core support & strapped the radiator up with a ratchet strap.

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I think the front suspension is tacked together, excluding the radius arm/frame mounts. I'm waiting for the new rod ends from Metal Cloak.

I added some sections of 1/4" 2x4 box steel to the frame, under the coil spring brackets & track bar bracket. I felt it would add strength to the joint. I miscalculated things, on my first try, and my track bar was hitting the tie rod with the axle raised up to the point where the radius arm hits the axle. I had to cut the lower hole off the Ruffstuff track bar bracket, since it was hitting the tie rod before the radius arms were hitting the frame.

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I ended up pulling the 1/4" reinforcement off the track bar bracket to make sure I could cycle the suspension to where the radius arms hit the frame. But in the end it all fit. I have at least 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the track bar bracket & tie rod, pitman arm/drag link end & tie rod, tie rod & track bar at all points in the suspension travel & steering.

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I'll have to make a longer track bar, to properly reach the new track bar bracket & center the axle.

Driver side
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Passenger side
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Nice progress Chad! What level (amt of lift) do you expect to set your coil towers at?

Looking good!

My Bloody Knuckle radius arms came drilled for a 3/8" bolt to hold down the lower coil retainer. The WH Extreme lower coil retainers I have are drilled for a 7/16" bolt. I've been running the WH lower retainer since April, and noticed that it looks like there might be some movement due to the rear hole being bigger than the bolt. The washer had dug into each cup a little.

So, I manned up and did a somewhat terrifying job. I drilled & tapped both BKG arms for a 3/8" bolt. It was nerve racking, slow work, the last thing I wanted to do was break a tap off in the radius arm. I had to thread about 1" into the radius arm. After about 1 hour, I had successfully rethreaded both arms. Whew!

I spent some time measuring & test fitting the steering columns and lower steering shafts I have on hand. I also happen to have a Flaming River or Idiit steering joint (3/4" smooth bore x 3/4"-36 spline), that I bought from a member years ago. Looks like I have a solution, using the collapsible lower shaft from the 79 Bronco that donated the 4x4 box, and the upper shaft & column that were in my Bronco (I believe the upper was part of a PS conversion kit from Toms). I'm going to grab some materials today, and do some more checking tonight & I'll post back up. If it works the way I think, I could have just used the 79 Bronco lower shaft, with the steering joint I have. But the upper joint on the shaft was very tight & rough feeling, so I'm replacing it with an Idit joint from BCB (3/4"-36 spline x 3/4"-36 spline). I'll post up more info tonight if this works out.

Yikes, terrifying to tap a very critical part, so happy it worked out. Good luck with the steering puzzle, not my favorite part of a bronco.

Pictures of the coil buckets & the BCB hardware installed in the radius arms.

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I think my steering linkage is figured.

I cut the rag joint & u-joint from the 79 Bronco lower steering column. Under the u-joint end (upper end) is 3/4"-36 spline. The end was mushroomed out to secure the u-joint. A quick trip to the band saw fixed that.

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Under the rag joint (steering gear end) is a 1"ish spline around a tube. The inside diameter of the tube is 3/4". I bought some 3/4" round today, and it fits snug. I'll drill through the tube & round stock & secure with a bolt & weld the end of the tube to the round stock. The joint I already have fits the steering gear input & the round stock. I'll order a 3/4"-36 spline x 3/4"-36 spline joint for the upper end and fit everything together.

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Brought my good welding helmet & a 20' extension cord for my welder home from work today.

I finish welded the coil buckets & track bar tonight.

Passenger side
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Driver side got a little sloppy, things were a little tighter and tougher to maneuver, but I don't think its going to go anywhere

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A few things arrived this week, new 1/2" Atlas adapter, 2 high misalignment bushing rod ends from Metal Cloak, new slave & master cylinders for the ZF.

Ooops, hit the wrong button.

Last night I did a little more work. After talking to Corey about his coil buckets, and seeing they had developed a slight bend, I took his advice & added a 'lip' around the coil retainer.

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I need to go out this morning and shoot/sight my rifle, but after that I'll get back to work for the weekend. This is my last weekend to work on the Bronco for a few weeks, my parents come to town next weekend, and the 18th - 26th will be hunting. I'll do a little in the evenings up to hunting season, but we'll see how far I can get. I'm sure, after that, it will be cold & time to break out the space heater for the garage. Hopefully, it won't get too cold, too quick.