Yes, I have a bad case of Bronco creep. I've got the grill off and the radiator out to move the steering box forwardso it seems like the perfect time to install a serp setup to prep for Explorer EFI. Is any particular year better than another? I'm planning to run Gary's modified harness with coil packs, so probably a 99-ish EFI setup.

I think the front dress were all very similar in the 5.0. There are 2 different fan clutch (plastic and steel) that will both work- just make sure if you get a plastic one, there aren't any large cracks in it. You may check with Garry on whether the crank position sensor needs to come from the same year as the EFI harness.

Also- if I remember correctly- you're planning on 37" tires? If so- you'll probably want to strongly consider the Saginaw PS pump conversion. If you'd like to see mine- you're welcome to swing by (I'm still not driving it as I haven't gotten my heater working).

Thanks! I haven't decided about spending the money for the Saginaw bracket and pulley vs. buying a WH or PSC pump. I may want to run a Sanden compressor for onboard air down the road, which the saginaw wouldn't let me do.

If were you I'd wait till you do the 351 swap, you're not gaining a lot doing it on an engine you plan to pull. Especially considering what you have works

The explorer serp set-up will bolt onto a 351 so it's not like he'd be out the money.

I've debated that one too. The bronco fund is way tapped, and my short block is in good shape, so I'm going to convert it to serp and efi. That way the 351 can get rebuilt and maybe stroked when I do move forward with it.

I haven't noticed any changes in the serp setups aside from plastic vs metal fans. Cranks sensors should all be the same, the cam sensors did change, but you would need to change it again for a 351 anyway.
99+ might be a little better for a 351, the smaller injectors flow more due to the higher pressure. But, you would need an adjustable pressure regulator which adds to the total cost a bit.

I'm willing to invest the small extra amount to not have to re-do things down the road. I'll go for a 99+ setup. Does the factory pressure regulator work for a 302? Thanks, that helps!

I've got a '99 fuel rail and injectors (beige/tan) if you need them. I'd let them go for what I paid for them (that is if you don't buy this beast).

98 and earlier work too, but if you build it hot enough you can run out of injector. But, it's a Bronco, not a dragster so it should be fine. I haven't heard of any one leaning out on a 351w with 19's yet, but they have all been mild builds. If you stroke it you'll want bigger injectors. If you needed to step up to bigger injectors down the road I wouldn't charge you anything to re-tune it as long as you use Ford injectors with known data and not some Ebay garbage.

The 99+ equal pretty close to 24's (23 and some change) so it get's you a little more headroom. But, if you build a pissed off stroker they may not be enough either.

The 99+ rails don't have a fuel pressure regulator, the device on the rails is just a dampener. The regulator is mounted in the tank above the pump and bleeds off the excess pressure right back in to the tank returning it before it leaves the tank instead of returning it at the fuel rail. You would just need an adjustable fuel pressure mounted on the frame rail. You would then run a return from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. The catch is you need to make sure the pump, regulator, and anything else in the system can handle 65 PSI.

Or get real crafty and mount the entire 99+ pump / regulator assembly in to your tank.

Hmmm, I like the idea of mounting the pump/regulator assembly in the tank, but after looking at the sending unit assembly it could be a massive PITA. I've been thinking about some tank mods for axle clearance and fuel return anyway, but need to find out how likely I am to have problems if I attempt to weld a well-used tank. Have heard many horror stories. What pressure does the '99+ system get regulated to? Not planning to build an angry stroker if I do it at all, more likely a mild 393 or 408. I figure that a stroker kit may cost about what a rebuilt kit plus the charges to clean everything up.

All the way to the fuel rail? That'd be a bummer, i don't think my fuel lines are rated for that.

I'd run steel hard line most of the way, and use the donor Explorer fuel line with fittings at the rail. Keep the rubber EFI line to minimum, only use it between the hard line on the frame and the fuel tank.

I had thought the tube I made mine from was annealed aluminum. Turns out it's steel and I'm forgetful. Problem solved. Whats the best way to set up the lines for the factory couplers? I've got a bunch of very pretty AN fittings spare, so a clean way to adapt to those would make me happy.

I'm sure you can flare the hard line for AN. I've seen AN adapters for the Ford rails as well.

I'm a cheap SOB, I bubble flare the hard line to act as a hose barb for attaching rubber line with clamps. I cut the EFI fittings out of junkyard nylon lines. They have nice barbs for attaching rubber line to. But, I still like to keep the use of rubber line to only a couple of inches.