Im not sure if they would be a worth while upgrade to the OBS. I know that they are on the 98 superduty's. Just keep in mind you'd need a new tune with those splitshot's. You may call someone like Clay at Riffraff and ask him if it would be worth it. I bet before long i'll be getting a set of stage 1's.

As for my truck I looked and since moab I have only put on 4k miles. It's over due for an oil change. Gotta OHM out my glowplugs again. Thin I have a UVCH problem. Now that the temps are getting colder it sure does smoke A LOT on startup. No issues starting just very smokey. Was the same symptoms when i got the truck and the UVCH was half unplugged. When I changed glowplugs I didnt know about the 50cent mod.

These are used in commercial pools & spas as pump timers. I had an extra, and wired an extension cord (or 2) into the switched leg, and hardwired (or cord end) the load leg to an outlet box. Rated to 40amps 110v, more than enough for even 2 cars.

I don't like fooling with cheapo plastic switches.

http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T101-H ... B00002N5FN

I had 4 bad glow plugs when I bought the truck, it wouldn't start at 50-60*, without plugging in for 1 hour. I swapped my plugs this spring. It started flawlessly every morning at hunting camp. It wasn't as cold as it should have been, probably about 25* average. But it was my first test of the truck, and it did great.

Quick Googling says those pull 1000w, which at 120v is about 8.3 amps. Any normal wall timer will be fine-most are rated for 15A. Plug it directly into the wall, not a power strip. I've badly cooked a couple strips with 1000w aquarium heaters.

I had a nice digital one that could be programmed (home depot), but I did end up burning it up after a few seasons.

What I'd love to see is someone smarter than me to make one that is not only time dependent, but temperature dependent as well. Have it check the temp 4 hrs before your leave. If it's 35 or above, do nothing. Below 35, start the block heater. Then check again two hours out. If it's 40 or above, leave it off. Below 40, and kick it on. I might be nice to have 4 sets of programmable set points.

4 hours seemed like it was enough time to heat up the engine in any weather.

One hour is usually long enough to raise coolant temps to ~50*F, the usual max on the stock block heaters.

Yeah, I really have no scientific evidence, but I believe I always had mine on for 4 hrs when it started to freeze consistently at night. It did start easier than if I only did 1 hr.

Well I hope mine starts when land tonight at 8 pm

I should look into airport parking that has an electrical outlet

Used a cheap plastic one from ACE for 4 years now with no issues.

Oh BTW you guys need to look into the "marinco mod".

It keeps that ugly cord from hanging out the front. Also keeps it from swinging and breaking.

Confirmed this weekend that the cam sensor went bad. It lasted 25 days (maybe less- I hadn't tried to start the truck for a week). Keep that in mind.

Here's a couple ideas for ya:

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp ... HR84ovF_TQ

My cold starts are getting a lot worse. I need some nice weather cause Im betting I have a UVCH problem again. This time I'll replace the harness and gaskets.

Why not just take some resistance readings on the outside of the valve covers and make sure you have a good connection?

I plan on it when it warms up a little.

I think the best money I have spent on my truck so far is the investment in new glow plugs. I failed to plug my block heater in last week when we hit 27 below and it still started fine. It did crank a little slower than normal but it still fired up.

Anyone deal with a coolant flush yet? Im planning to do that this spring. What coolant you run?

I had a shop do it, and I also supplied the coolant for the last fill, but I don't recall what it was... Zerex maybe??

I'll be dealing with this soon when I fix my cracked injector cup issue. Here are my notes I've taken from FTE discussions on the subject.

Heavy duty extended life coolant
International fleetrite, shell rotella elc, cat elc, chevron delo elc, peak final charge, prestone heavy duty elc, zerex extreme heavy duty
4 gallons
20 gallons distilled water
Thermostat gasket f4tz-8255-a
Thermostat f6tz-8575-ea
Thermostat housing f81z-8260-ca
Upper radiator hose f81z-8260-ca
Lower radiator hose yc32-8286-ce
Degas bottle cap f6dz-8100-a

Yep see above. The biggest thing on the coolant is to get a low or no silicate coolant. Also if your truck is a late 99 build or newer then absolutely go with an ELC coolant. Any ELC coolant that meets the caterpillar EC-1 requirement is a good coolant. If your truck is an early 99 or older then they don't recommend an ELC coolant because it is not compatible with the sealant used on injector cups and will cause them to leak over time. Injector cups are no fun and are easy to mess up. I've had a run on trucks lately to come in with bad ones. My advice is clean clean clean. I bought a digital camera scope just to inspect the heads before I pressed the new cups in, and so far haven't had a truck come back yet

I'm always blown away by the level of technical knowledge in this club. You guys are awesome.