They actually make a cotter pin removal tool, it looks like a bent up awl.
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-cotter-key ... 904319000P

I, accidentally, have one of those. Used to be a flat tip screw driver.

So I can't find a cotter pin.The only thing I see is a bolt.

Thats a twin sticked j shift. How I did mine is unbolt the t case. Slowly pull the case back so it comes off the locating pin. Then let the tcase rotate a little. The shifter "pins" will come out of the rails. Make sure the spud shaft retainer comes with the t case or it wont work. Might use a jack to hold it. I just muscled mine.

Are you just trying to get the shifter off?

You need to unbolt the shifter from the t-case. There are 2 bolts holding the shifter to the case. One goes through the case, & threads into the shifter. The other goes through the sifter & threads into the case. You can see them in your first 2 pics.

Or maybe you can take the torx head bolt out of the shifter & wiggle the shift handles off the base. I'm not sure how that one is built. I made my own from stuff we had around the shop & I've never seen another up close.

So what would be the best way to get a broken bolt out of the frame?
Only had one break on the cross member brackets that bolt to frame
The drill don't fit.Would like not to have to pull transmission.

Also waiting on results from what happened in the transfer case.

Any bolt still sticking out or broken flush with frame?

It's in set in nothing to grab

I feel like I'm going to need a new tool
Right angle drill huh nice

I have 2 bolts broken off in the frame (one on each side) so the crossmember is only bolted with 3 bolts on each side, instead of 4. Its been that way for 15 years. If you can't get it out, forget about it.

Cool thanks everyone. I got the broken bolt out.
I also cleaned up the cross member.Sand blasted
and painted with Armor coat
Chip resistance paint awesome stuff

Nice work! I have 2 broken bolts in my engine block that I am about to deal with this weekend. Hoping I have as much luck as you did!!

I got the extractors from sears lifetime warranty

I can get a phone number for you also if needed

So if I was going to replace the 8 bolts for the cross member support brackets that are held to the frame what grade should I use?
Was thinking a grade 5

x2. It's probably overkill for that application, but it seems like cheap insurance. I usually replace any critical fastener I remove that has been in service for more than a couple of years with new for the same reason.

The problem with Grade 8 bolts is that they are more likely to simply break where a Grade 5 bolt will stretch but still hold the parts.
You still end up needing to replace the bolt but you don't need to go back down the road or trail to pick up the pieces.

Got the transfer case in and drive shaft's hooked up
Getting closer day by day.

Here are some pictures of transfer case before it was cleaned up and after it was finished
I couldn't put it on looking like that